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I picked this boat and 2 frames up cheaply. The baffles seem to be okay, but the seams are coming apart badly. Does anyone have any hints and tips for getting this thing back and floating again? Should I remove badly repaired seam and re do or just re glue? Same for the D-rings? Any background on this boat is greatly appreciated! Cheers







 

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Aren't maravia seems welded. I've never heard of welded seems coming apart.
Old Maravia's are glued together. Once the glue starts letting loose......your screwed. You'll end up spending more money on glue than you bought the boat for. On the bright side.......you got two frames for $75.00. :D
 

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Old Maravia's are glued together. Once the glue starts letting loose......your screwed. You'll end up spending more money on glue than you bought the boat for. On the bright side.......you got two frames for $75.00. :D

At least one of which doesn't fit that boat, so now you have have no choice but to buy a narrow boat to fit the frame!


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If I spent another $70 on glue and spent some hours sanding and glueing, could I get a boat which would float for a few hours??
 

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The first boat I ever bought 20 years ago, before I knew anything about boats, was a non-bailer junker like that. I think it was a Maravia from the early 80's. The baffles blew apart after a couple of trips, on the last day on a mellow San Juan float. I also spent a lot more than $75. So count yourself lucky; the frames are probably worth at least that much.

I ended up using the frame & oars for 3-4 more years, so not a total loss; but I'll just say that it's not a great idea to put faith in that thing holding together on a wilderness trip. If the other frame is the one against the fence in the 1st picture, you could probably make that work with some inexpensive cat tubes. That's the route I took; and a cat is a great first boat IMO.
 

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I was looking at older Maravias a few years ago, they have a lot of problems thats why you don't see many on the water and they resell so cheap. I'd put a little into and see what you get.
 

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If I spent another $70 on glue and spent some hours sanding and gluing, could I get a boat which would float for a few hours??
The short answer is yes. But you could also use duct tape and keep it floating for a few hours. :wink: I sure wouldn't take it on an overnighter .........unless the river follows a road.

I too use to have an old Maravia like yours. I ended up giving it to a guy I loaned it to for a San Juan trip. I felt really bad for the loan. He too used duct tape to keep it together for the duration. For some reason he fell it love with that boat and didn't want to see it end up in the dumpster. He thought he could keep it going with some glue action. Not sure what he ended up doing with it.

Personally......I see lots of spare D rings and patch material. Maybe cut it up and make some signs or banners. People are still looking for those old valves. I have an old Sotar bail bucket floor I use as a welding blanket.
 

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Actually, I'd probably be more confident doing this:
1. Clean the seam edges with MEK to get rid of the dirt, then rough it a little with a rasp
2. Take some Gorilla Tape to the worst of the seams, and use a roller and a heat gun (carefully).

Go nuts with that tape- it'll hold pretty well if you have enough of it.

That might actually have a better chance of holding than trying to clean all the old adhesive from in between separated material & messing around with applying new glue. Seriously, either Stabond (PVC) or some kind of urethane glue is going to get very expensive. It's $30 to $40 for a pint of the stuff. Add in some patch material, and you're a 1/3 of the way into a set of decent cat tubes.

I'm not trying to be an ass - I just don't recommend sicking $200 into a lost cause.
 

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El Flaco is right about recommending Stabond. You will need to clean and roughen up the area to be reglued. Use some wood wedges to hold the seam open and use a scotch bright wheel on a drill to sand the fabric. The wheel can do both sides in one pass if your just gluing the layers back together. It looks like it is still holding air.....correct?

It's all about the prep to get the glue to stick. I see your in BC so I'd look on the NRS site and order Stabond from them. It's not cheap, but I wouldn't go with any other glue. The NRS web site has some good tutorials too.

Good luck.....but it is what it is.
 

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Harry,

I know you'd love to get some more life out of the boat, but right now, unless you've got an inexpensive glue source and LOTS more time than money, or you just are fired up about this, you're throwing good money after bad. I've heard of a raft repair man rebuilding a hypalon boat by turning the whole thing inside out and reglueing all the seams, and everything, but this is pre-1988 PVC we're talking about (IIRC, after '88, Maravia was coating all their boats with urethane). If you look around at this time of year, you should be able to find something decent for $1500 or so.

Good luck,

-AH
 

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If I did attempt the repair, what would be the best glue to use?

A gallon of gas and a road flare should get the job done, but don't try this in your garage. Proper ventilation is required along with several ABC fire extinguishers.
 

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For what it's worth, the valves may have some resale value if they're old HR style but not if they're the military screw in style. For valve information go to nrs.com.
 

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Another option is to coat the entire boat with a 40d flex polyurethane. 2 gallons will add 15 lbs to the base weight. It wouldn't do any thing for the baffles though.
 

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Another option is to coat the entire boat with a 40d flex polyurethane. 2 gallons will add 15 lbs to the base weight. It wouldn't do any thing for the baffles though.
I am curious what product you are talking about, but a Google search for "40d flex polyurethane" yields no relevant results. Care to elaborate?
 
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