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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been playing around with an inexpensive Anet 3d printer and FreeCad and printing up some parts for rafting. The first easy project was a base that zip tied to a Whale pump for a handwash station, I then designed/printed a Loc-Line flexible coolant hose 90 degree adapter for a handwash station, and another adapter for an Intex electric pump where I lost the connector, it now will quickly inflate my raft via the Leafield valves.

(The aforementioned Loc-Line 90 degree adapter is based on the the super nice SDG river gear handwash station top piece. I also like that SDG is 3d printing their soap holder, their handwash is great, other than the knockoff Whale pump, it has a failure mode where a metal dowel wiggles out, it secures the in/out nipples in place and when displaced causes the pump to suck air. To fix, take off the bottom plate, drive the metal dowell back in place and use JB weld or silicone to make sure it doesn't work loose again. Perhaps SDG did this for you, if not, I would contact SDG for a warranty replacement. I'm only mentioning this because I contacted them about the problem, they never replied.)

Anyway, I now own a Makita Blower - model XBU05 - and I'm trying to make a 3d printed adapter to go into a Leafield C7 or D7 valve. After some thought and a lot of caliper measurements I think I have a design that will work but I am waiting on repair parts for my 3d printer so I haven't had a chance to print the part. The part features a recessed cross-hatch section that will depress the valve actuator and should fit in the Makita blower. CAD design is tricky so I could have easily screwed it up.

The part should also fit the older Makita blowers with the nubs on the inside, you will need to cut/sand off the outside nubs though.

If you want to give it a go, the STL file is here: http://utahclimbers.com/misc/makita_to_leafield_c7_or_d7_valve.stl
If you actually print the part, please let me know if it fits/works! Once the parts arrive for my printer, I will print the part and update this thread. If you want the FreeCad file, reach out via PM.

I would use "support" when 3d printing this kind of part, profile and infill are up to you, I would think 0.2 profile and 60% infill would be minimum settings for durability.

Once I know the part is viable, I will upload to Thingiverse...
 

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I don't have need of that particular part, but I absolutely love that folks are doing this kind of thing and sharing theor work for everyone to use. It's definitley one of the bright spots on the 'net. So, even though I don't need this, I just wanted to say "Thanks for taking the time and sharing your work!"
 

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I've been playing around with an inexpensive Anet 3d printer and FreeCad and printing up some parts for rafting. The first easy project was a base that zip tied to a Whale pump for a handwash station, I then designed/printed a Loc-Line flexible coolant hose 90 degree adapter for a handwash station, and another adapter for an Intex electric pump where I lost the connector, it now will quickly inflate my raft via the Leafield valves.

(The aforementioned Loc-Line 90 degree adapter is based on the the super nice SDG river gear handwash station top piece. I also like that SDG is 3d printing their soap holder, their handwash is great, other than the knockoff Whale pump, it has a failure mode where a metal dowel wiggles out, it secures the in/out nipples in place and when displaced causes the pump to suck air. To fix, take off the bottom plate, drive the metal dowell back in place and use JB weld or silicone to make sure it doesn't work loose again. Perhaps SDG did this for you, if not, I would contact SDG for a warranty replacement. I'm only mentioning this because I contacted them about the problem, they never replied.)

Anyway, I now own a Makita Blower - model XBU05 - and I'm trying to make a 3d printed adapter to go into a Leafield C7 or D7 valve. After some thought and a lot of caliper measurements I think I have a design that will work but I am waiting on repair parts for my 3d printer so I haven't had a chance to print the part. The part features a recessed cross-hatch section that will depress the valve actuator and should fit in the Makita blower. CAD design is tricky so I could have easily screwed it up.

The part should also fit the older Makita blowers with the nubs on the inside, you will need to cut/sand off the outside nubs though.

If you want to give it a go, the STL file is here: http://utahclimbers.com/misc/makita_to_leafield_c7_or_d7_valve.stl
If you actually print the part, please let me know if it fits/works! Once the parts arrive for my printer, I will print the part and update this thread. If you want the FreeCad file, reach out via PM.

I would use "support" when 3d printing this kind of part, profile and infill are up to you, I would think 0.2 profile and 60% infill would
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Love the coke bottle and funnel solutions, cheap and easy! My goal was to make sure the part depresses the center pin, the cross section goes to the base to help with durability.

Cylinder Gas Automotive design Auto part Metal
 

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Appreciate the tech, Shaft.

I made one with a series of stacked PVC rings...way more labor intensive.

That technology is cool if you have it. You can also cut the top of a plastic coke bottle, file off the threads and put it inside the rubber makita blower nozzle.
This is exactly what I did. Works like a charm
Could drill or melt a hole through the side and insert a nail or screw. Glue it in place and saw/grind/file off the protruding metal.

edit: Either manually twisting the center valve pin, or mechanically depressing it is a MUST. The Makita/DeWalt/Milwaukee/etc blowers don't have enough pressure (where your cylinder pump does) to consistently push the flapper back to inflate the boat. Having the pin is a great idea so the air stays in the boat when you pull the blower back.

And as with any electric/blower pump, still use your cylinder pump for topping off.
 

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Love the coke bottle and funnel solutions, cheap and easy! My goal was to make sure the part depresses the center pin, the cross section goes to the base to help with durability.

View attachment 72126
I see the “x” in the center and like the idea. That should work to depress the center of the valve. Like MT4Runner stated, the battery operated blowers just aren’t strong enough to open the valve. I blow up my raft with the valve open and then quickly close the valve. It’s not a big deal but your adapter might be a good upgrade. Please let us know how it works. Maybe you need to design an adapter for each of the blowers and sell them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That technology is cool if you have it. You can also cut the top of a plastic coke bottle, file off the threads and put it inside the rubber makita blower nozzle.
I see the “x” in the center and like the idea. That should work to depress the center of the valve. Like MT4Runner stated, the battery operated blowers just aren’t strong enough to open the valve. I blow up my raft with the valve open and then quickly close the valve. It’s not a big deal but your adapter might be a good upgrade. Please let us know how it works. Maybe you need to design an adapter for each of the blowers and sell them?
Somebody was selling machined delrin inserts for the Makita rubber tube, I didn't remember that fact when I started CAD-ing the part above, I think the insert is a better idea, I have drawn it up and I will post a link to the final STL file once I get the replacement bowden tube for my 3d printer. I didn't understand that leaving the filament in the bowden tube for an extended period was a bad idea...

Drinkware Cylinder Font Gas Auto part


Gear garage video with insert, comments are interesting with somebody claiming that by using a more airtight insert that you will burn out the motor of the blower prematurely:
 

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Blowers need airflow to stay cool. Use it for inflation, but topping off will result in low airflow, high temperatures and your motor burning out prematurely.
Air leakage alone won’t be enough to keep the motor cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Works well, fully opens the valve when pushed in.

FreeCAD and STL files are at Thingiverse:

Cylinder Font Gas Auto part Circle
Product Office supplies Font Line Writing implement
Material property Household hardware Gas Font Tints and shades
 

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Either that blower is way wimpier than my dewalt, or you are way overthinking it.

I just place the 3.5" round end of my blower over the leafield valve, hold it tight and inflate the boat.

you're not hoping to use it to top off pressure are you? I'd think the blower motor would not care for that much.

I use the dewalt unmodified, held against the boat, with the valve open to get the boat to shape, then close the valve and use a hand pump for pressure.

I do envision a spider of flexible tubing to engage all the leafield valves simultaneously, and set the pressure for the desired PSI and walk away. RE-install it for trailered elevation shuttles/ commutes, and let it self manage for high and low, for a "set it and forget it". I have never busted a boat dues to high pressure on a mountain pass, but it happens and sucks to even think about. I have seen many folks get out and let a bunch of air out, then have a limp boat at lower elevation. I let someone use my boat, and it was inches from the rear scraping pavement due to the above issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Either that blower is way wimpier than my dewalt, or you are way overthinking it.

I just place the 3.5" round end of my blower over the leafield valve, hold it tight and inflate the boat.

you're not hoping to use it to top off pressure are you? I'd think the blower motor would not care for that much.

I use the dewalt unmodified, held against the boat, with the valve open to get the boat to shape, then close the valve and use a hand pump for pressure.
The makita is the same as the dewalt as far as speed of inflation goes. I was merely passing the long winter evenings by playing with a new toy. I bet my blower with insert is faster than your dewalt because I don't have to open and close the valves :)
 

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I had my own solution schemed up but this looks lie a win, and you did the heavy lifting to boot. I might have to switch to this!
 

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Either that blower is way wimpier than my dewalt, or you are way overthinking it.

I just place the 3.5" round end of my blower over the leafield valve, hold it tight and inflate the boat.

you're not hoping to use it to top off pressure are you? I'd think the blower motor would not care for that much.

I use the dewalt unmodified, held against the boat, with the valve open to get the boat to shape, then close the valve and use a hand pump for pressure.

I do envision a spider of flexible tubing to engage all the leafield valves simultaneously, and set the pressure for the desired PSI and walk away. RE-install it for trailered elevation shuttles/ commutes, and let it self manage for high and low, for a "set it and forget it". I have never busted a boat dues to high pressure on a mountain pass, but it happens and sucks to even think about. I have seen many folks get out and let a bunch of air out, then have a limp boat at lower elevation. I let someone use my boat, and it was inches from the rear scraping pavement due to the above issue.
I have a dewalt that I use sometimes in the garage for inflation, never observed a heating up situation, but then the blower will never achieve much more than a fractional PSI, I can't imagine it being used to "top off" a tube. Never had to push the valve thingie down, but when opening a C-7 manually, it did seem to inflate faster, but I have no empirical evidence to back this up with.

Neat project man.. You'll have to bring it along if the memorial day float happens again this year.
 

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I used your part on my bastardized setup. I bought a Makita blower super cheap but I run Milwaukee and Dewalt batteries. So I bought an adapter so the Makita can run on either of those. My blower had a different discharge attachment so I kludged it together from assorted plumbing parts.

All and all not too purty but a blow job is a blow job.
Drinkware Tire Hat Automotive tire Wood
Laptop Personal computer Computer Table Wood
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Franken blower, nice! I did make a part that should work for you, but the fit was kinda loose, I was thinking about printing it again at 101% but the other part worked so well I didn't bother, it might just need a wrap of electrical tape at the base... Following is a link to the STL file, let me know if you want the FreeCAD file.

Gesture Font Art Auto part Circle
 
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