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    1. · Shapp
      Joined
      ·
      1,904 Posts
      Pretty close to scale drawing below:

      In addition to your compact outfitter frame pars you will need 2 additional 68” bars and 2 additional 78” bars, but don’t buy these exact from NRS because the 78” bars are not actually 78” long because they factor in the low pro fitting. For these additional bars you will be using the woosung F-1 knuckles. So by a 4 pack of 88” bars which cost the same as the above anyway and you will have a little extra left over to make a foot bar in addition to the left over parts you will have from your frame (1 extra 60” cross bar and the foot bar). You will not be using your NRS foot bar on the new frame. 78” isn’t long enough to use the NRS foot bar and get 4 usable bays, plus they suck. You will make a T bar with the extra lopros will have left over that will clamp on the cross bar in front of your feet. I have a 4 bay frame on my super duper puma that is 78” long using this method and have 4 good usable bays for table deck, cooler, rocket boxes and dry box. The 156D is a little wonky on the curfatures so a longer frame won’t really work well like it would on the 156R.

      Get the 4 pack of 88” side rails
      http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=1200+R&pdeptid=1178

      Get 8 F-1 Knuckles, buy from Kootenai Valley Inflatables
      http://zebec.co.kr/english/accessories/Frame%20Parts.htm
      http://kvirafts.com/

      Pimp your self up and buy a chop saw at the pawn shop and get a good carbide toothed blade to cut the pipe or else get a pipe cutter like this to be a cheap bastard:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/no-2-pipe-cutter-5982.html

      The pipe cutter will work for making connections with the F-1 knuckles but not for lopros as the pipe cutter will put a flare to the inside of the pipe which will preclude you from sliding the shank of the lopro inside. So the bottom line is buy a used chop saw or borrow one and buy a blade. Just a straight saw, nothing fancy, don’t need a slider etc. a new one is like this:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/10-compound-miter-saw-with-laser-guide-system-69683.html

      Have a medium quality chorded hand drill (not chordless)
      http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-heavy-duty-variable-speed-reversible-drill-3273.html

      Step drills are what you want to drill holes through the pipe to pin the F-1 fittings
      http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-91616.html
      Use bolts and nylock nuts and do not over tighten as you can crack the F-1 knuckles this way.

      A flat and round file would be nice to cleanup the edges.
      Once you have everything placed correctly, take out the set screw on the F-1 knuckle and take the drill pit and divit the pipe where the set screw will take a bit. Add some locktite and re-insert and torque the set screw down into the divit.

      Latter on once you have the bar spacing dialed in after a few trips to where you think no changes are needed, and cut out some wood decks to mount on your side rails or safe up some money and have some diamond plate put on if you so chose. I don’t have side decks and haven’t used them over the couple decades I have been rowing boats. Lots of folks like them, but I don’t particularly have a need and like to save on the weight.
       

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    2. · Shapp
      Joined
      ·
      1,904 Posts
      I would like to point out the drawing dimension are approximate. You should be able to make this frame given the materials listed. However, you will lay this stuff out on the actual boat. Do not make a head of time before you have the boat. You may find you want the inner rails a bit narrower, which would mean cutting the ends off your existing rails and re installing the lopro (doable but a little tricker than just leaving them alone), you may find you want the outer rail a bit narrower too.

      Pretty close to scale drawing below:

      In addition to your compact outfitter frame pars you will need 2 additional 68” bars and 2 additional 78” bars, but don’t buy these exact from NRS because the 78” bars are not actually 78” long because they factor in the low pro fitting. For these additional bars you will be using the woosung F-1 knuckles. So by a 4 pack of 88” bars which cost the same as the above anyway and you will have a little extra left over to make a foot bar in addition to the left over parts you will have from your frame (1 extra 60” cross bar and the foot bar). You will not be using your NRS foot bar on the new frame. 78” isn’t long enough to use the NRS foot bar and get 4 usable bays, plus they suck. You will make a T bar with the extra lopros will have left over that will clamp on the cross bar in front of your feet. I have a 4 bay frame on my super duper puma that is 78” long using this method and have 4 good usable bays for table deck, cooler, rocket boxes and dry box. The 156D is a little wonky on the curfatures so a longer frame won’t really work well like it would on the 156R.

      Get the 4 pack of 88” side rails
      http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=1200+R&pdeptid=1178

      Get 8 F-1 Knuckles, buy from Kootenai Valley Inflatables
      http://zebec.co.kr/english/accessories/Frame%20Parts.htm
      http://kvirafts.com/

      Pimp your self up and buy a chop saw at the pawn shop and get a good carbide toothed blade to cut the pipe or else get a pipe cutter like this to be a cheap bastard:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/no-2-pipe-cutter-5982.html

      The pipe cutter will work for making connections with the F-1 knuckles but not for lopros as the pipe cutter will put a flare to the inside of the pipe which will preclude you from sliding the shank of the lopro inside. So the bottom line is buy a used chop saw or borrow one and buy a blade. Just a straight saw, nothing fancy, don’t need a slider etc. a new one is like this:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/10-compound-miter-saw-with-laser-guide-system-69683.html

      Have a medium quality chorded hand drill (not chordless)
      http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-heavy-duty-variable-speed-reversible-drill-3273.html

      Step drills are what you want to drill holes through the pipe to pin the F-1 fittings
      http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-91616.html
      Use bolts and nylock nuts and do not over tighten as you can crack the F-1 knuckles this way.

      A flat and round file would be nice to cleanup the edges.
      Once you have everything placed correctly, take out the set screw on the F-1 knuckle and take the drill pit and divit the pipe where the set screw will take a bit. Add some locktite and re-insert and torque the set screw down into the divit.

      Latter on once you have the bar spacing dialed in after a few trips to where you think no changes are needed, and cut out some wood decks to mount on your side rails or safe up some money and have some diamond plate put on if you so chose. I don’t have side decks and haven’t used them over the couple decades I have been rowing boats. Lots of folks like them, but I don’t particularly have a need and like to save on the weight.
       

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