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1/2-13 (10 PCS) Acorn Hex Cap Nuts Locknuts, 304 Stainless Steel, Bright Finish

1/2-13 (10 PCS) Acorn Hex Cap Nuts Locknuts, 304 Stainless Steel, Bright Finish

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$10 USD on Amazon
Allen Hex Drive: 3/4" Threads Size: 1/2-13; Threads Pitch: 13 TPI; Package Included: 10 PCS Width Across Flat: 18.75-19.05mm; Height: 20.2-20.8mm; Thickness: 10.3-11.3mm; Widely used in hobby and furniture projects, fencing, lawn or playground equipment. Offers good protection and decorative appearance. Material: High Quality 18-8 Stainless Steel, great strength and good corrosion resistance to make fasteners last!

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1 - 2 of 2 Posts
  1. thegoodpuppies

    thoughts on driving with 66 lb outboard motor connected to a 15 ft raft mounted on a trailer...

    2 3
    40
    3K
     by lowrider1
    1. MT4Runner

      · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      6,434 Posts
      #35 ·
      lowrider1 said:
      Great minds think alike. On my list of things to do it find an appropriate die to rethread those bolts after I grind them off. With the nyloc nuts you gotta be careful to not over heat and melt the nylon so I usually mark the bolt with a file then remove them and cut them AFTER threading a die onto the bolt. 5/16 is too heavy to easily cut with bolt cutters...at least for me. A lot of extra work but worth it.
      NRS probably buys bulk bolts that fit in a variety of locations on their products. That length is hazardous for sure in that application. U bolts do allow fine tuning easily as necessary.

      Have you priced stainless acorns lately? I need 2 and went to the Homey place...1/2" were $4.50 EACH!!
      Grind and buff with a Scotchbrite wheel and a squirt of locktite if the nylon melts.
      Click to expand...
      I also mark (Sharpie) and cut with a cutoff wheel. I can usually hand-chamfer and then wire-wheel to an acceptable end.
      I want to try one of these external debur/chamfer bits.

      One can also thread on a non-locking nut, cut the threads slightly long, and when you unthread the nut, it will push the burr out of the threads...then file/grind/etc the chamfer. You can't really skip the chamfer and be able to thread a nut back on.

      I get most of my hardware from Bolt Depot, McMaster, or Amazon
      $12/10 on McMaster
      $9/20 on Amazon
       
    2. L

      · Registered
      Joined
      ·
      44 Posts
      #41 ·
      MT4Runner said:
      I also mark (Sharpie) and cut with a cutoff wheel. I can usually hand-chamfer and then wire-wheel to an acceptable end.
      I want to try one of these external debur/chamfer bits.

      One can also thread on a non-locking nut, cut the threads slightly long, and when you unthread the nut, it will push the burr out of the threads...then file/grind/etc the chamfer. You can't really skip the chamfer and be able to thread a nut back on.

      I get most of my hardware from Bolt Depot, McMaster, or Amazon
      $12/10 on McMaster
      $9/20 on Amazon
      Click to expand...
      I have 2 packs from Amazon just in case on the way. Thanks MT
       
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