Which fabric is this Legacy boat? - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 02-12-2016   #1
 
Vancouver Isl, BC
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Which fabric is this Legacy boat?

4 questions I need some help with please,
  • Which material is this legacy boat made from?
  • Which material is the floor made from?
  • How would I repair the pictured tear?
  • Based on the serial number, what year is this Avon boat made?

Thank you!






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Old 02-12-2016   #2
 
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1931?


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Old 02-12-2016   #3
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Boat?
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Old 02-12-2016   #4
 
Phoenix, Arizona
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Ok, I'll bite:

1. Looks like EPDM or cheap hypalon over nylon, and appears to be disintigrating from UV exposure. if it's like this over a substantial area of the air-holding part of the boat it's toast.
2. Looks like urethane over polyester...the weave looks flatter...although at this point without feeling it and smelling it it's hard to be certain. After you've been around enough boats you can pretty much tell the material by the smell. Also the rubberized fabrics tend to feel more textured and "grippy" while the PVC and urethanes generally feel smoother and more slippery (unless they have a textured spray coat on them).
3. Can't really make out the tear in the picture. Almost looks like road-rash (ask me how I know what a road-rashed raft looks like)...
4. April 1983. Initially, the HIN appears non-standard, at least compared to the HIN format established over 30 years ago:
AVB = first 3 chars are manufacturer code (Avon). Newer boats would also be prefixed with a 2 letter country code and hyphen (ie "GB-")
13965 = five digits after mfr are sequential serial number. So far, so good.
M = should be month of mfr, however only "A"-"L" are defined.
8 = should be last digit year of manufacture
31 = should be 2 digit model year

However, prior to August 1984 a different scheme was in use:
M = "M" indicates alternate method for certification date is used
83 = year of certification (1983)
I = month of certification (April)
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Old 02-13-2016   #5
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Legacy was a thin "hypalon" material.

The legacy floor would have been the same but it may have been urethane coated.

Depending on the size of that hole (appears to be an inch or so) in the middle of that road or delam rash, whatever it may be, I would inside outside patch it and make sure the outside patch went well beyond the rash. Main reason I would inside patch some thing as small as an inch is because of how bad the material is around it. Not a lot of good material to get an airtight bond on, and the inside material is hopefully in better shape. All in all the raft looks like it is nearing the end of its shelf life.

I'll agree with '83. It is interesting that it has the I or 1 after the 83. I have worked on a bunch of Avons as old as 76 and they have all had the last two as the year.

What model avon is it?
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Old 02-13-2016   #6
 
Vancouver Isl, BC
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Thank you for your responses -

Quote:
appears to be disintigrating from UV exposure
Yes and no - lots of that wear is from where the oars have rubbed against the boat. It's by no means in a perfect shape, but does hold air and is fun for day trips.

The tear is not a great picture, but is just something from sharp rocks, the crap around it is residue from an aquaseal 'repair' - you can see how that worked.

Quote:
Legacy was a thin "hypalon" material.
Yes, it is thin! Feels like a paper bag when compared to the quality, heavy Avon, but hey, it holds air.

Which glue would be best to use to patch the floor?

Quote:
What model avon is it?
I believe a drifter, it's a 12.5 ft bucket boat

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Old 02-13-2016   #7
 
Phoenix, Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrywatson View Post
Thank you for your responses -
Yes and no - lots of that wear is from where the oars have rubbed against the boat. It's by no means in a perfect shape, but does hold air and is fun for day trips.

The tear is not a great picture, but is just something from sharp rocks, the crap around it is residue from an aquaseal 'repair' - you can see how that worked.

Yes, it is thin! Feels like a paper bag when compared to the quality, heavy Avon, but hey, it holds air.

Which glue would be best to use to patch the floor?

I believe a drifter, it's a 12.5 ft bucket boat
Well it looks like there is a lot of 'checkering' of the top coating which is indicative of the coating failing. Attempting to bond anything to that is futile because the bond will only be as good as the underlying bond to the base fabric. It's like trying to paint over peeling paint...it just isn't successful. If its only a small area where this is happening you can usually just scrape off the loose stuff and either give it a couple urethane coats or apply a patch.

Clifton with accelerator is what I use for Hypalon & Neoprene. Err on less accelerator than more if you can't measure it accurately. If the floor is the same boat it should be hypalon, too, not sure why it looks different though. If the floor is not original it could be urethane (I've seen SOTAR floors swapped into other boats before), in which case Stabond is the glue to use. Reportedly Stabond will also adhere to hypalon but it wouldn't be my first choice to use on a hypalon repair unless I was trying to glue a PVC accessory to hypalon (something Zodiac is famous for doing). If it's hypalon with a urethane coating over it then I would probably buff down to the hypalon and glue to that, using clifton.

You need to clean up all the old glue, extend past the bad area at least 1" all the way around to sound material, be sure to buff the rubber (but not the exposed base fabric which would weaken it), and as Zach stated if it's more than an inch or so apply an inside patch first. The most important thing: you MUST get ALL of the old glue/aquaseal/whatever off first. The second most important thing: you MUST buff any rubber fabric before applying glue to it. I can't tell you how many times I come across patches that literally peel off because the previous owner failed to buff the rubber first. The glue simply won't bond properly to unbuffed hypalon/csm/neoprene.
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Old 02-13-2016   #8
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I am truly impressed, that is a lot of knowledge on Hedge and Zach's part.
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