What kind and size wood to use? - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 05-18-2015   #1
 
gobigohome's Avatar
 
Golden, Colorado
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What kind and size wood to use?

I believe there is a thread on this but was not able to pull anything up. Looking to see some pics and advice on what size wood to use on the top of my frame. Ideally I would fork up the cash and do diamond plate but if you saw the boat you would understand its a budget build...I would like to do a seat upfront with a table conversion and side covering down the double rails. Thoughts and advice would be great. It's on a 14 foot boat with a Down River Frame Click image for larger version

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Old 05-18-2015   #2
 
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Hampden, Massachusetts
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1/2" plywood
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Old 05-18-2015   #3
 
East MT, WestMT, Both sides of the Yellowstone
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I used old concrete forms. Real tough.
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Old 05-18-2015   #4
 
Horserump, Colorado
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build for how much you're going to use it. 1/2" will work but if you are going to use it on multi long multi day trips 3/4 marine grade with a highly water resistant paint light in color would last you as long as your frame.
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Old 05-18-2015   #5
 
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Golden, Colorado
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Thanks. Looking for something that will hold up to wear but still save on weight. I am sure that is what everybody is trying to do. I plan on varnishing the hell out of it but didn't know if any one tried anything with different types of wood.

Second. Is there any table kits out there or any where some one has found to buy legs for tables at all ?


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Old 05-18-2015   #6
 
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Denver, Colorado
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AAA has table leg kits. NRS will sell skidguard as rough cut pieces that you can finish
Yourself. Skid guard is way More durable than regular or marine ply due to the laminated top
and bottom. Plus you only have to finish the edges so way less maintenance. If you wanna go cheaper still use cabinet plywood so u have one nice and smooth side
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Old 05-19-2015   #7
 
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Boise, Idaho
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I used 3/4" ACX. I think it cost about $40 at the local True Value for a 4'x8' sheet.

Made a template with cardboard first to dial everything in.

This is the only shot I could find of the running boards before I finished them. I ended up making the cutouts for the oar mounts a little wider for more flexibility with placement. My wife needs them a little closer to the seat when she rows. Routed every edge (top and bottom) with a roundover bit. Painted the bare wood with a few coats of Behr DeckOver.



I run 1' NRS straps through the holes to attach the running boards to the frame.

The DeckOver held up pretty well last season. Touched up a few worn spots this season. I like it because it has just enough texture to provide grip when walking on the boards. Amount of texture can be increased with rollers of different length naps and by varying the rolling technique.

The only thing I'll do differently this season is I might put a thin piece of closed-cell foam under any ammo cans I strap to the running boards. Last season the corners of the ammo cans wore through the paint.
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Old 05-19-2015   #8
 
East of the Pine beatle, Colorado
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I made my running boards thinner than my table to save weight. The runners have full length support from the frame rails, so they don't flex when I walk on them. Be sure the ply you choose has an outdoor recommendation so the glue will withstand the moisture- and DON'T buy the shit Home Depot sells. It is garbage. Minwax Helmsman is a decent finish- I added some Behr grip additive powder and it worked out really well. Invisible and it adds a ton of grip.

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Old 05-19-2015   #9
 
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Mine are very similar to Gringoanthony's, but I used 1/2" and had more cutouts for strapping. Mine cracked in the first year thanks to the combo of 1/2" and a lot of cuttouts. My suggestion would be if you are going to have lots of cutouts go 3/4", if your going minimal cuttouts 1/2" should work fine. I used CDX and would definitely suggest ACX for a cleaner finish. If you want to go super clean look into MDO. It's a paper coated, zero void acx. Spendy but makes a super nice painted finish. It's the closest thing I can get around here to marine ply.



I also used behr deckover and am mixed on it. I love the feel, the amount of grip without being abrasive to skin but it hasn't held up as well as I thought. Mine has about 50 days and has some significant checking and a few places it didn't bond well. All doug fir plywood will check unless it's totally sealed with epoxy and even then it could so I'm not surprised about that but I was just hoping the finish would remain pliable enough to absorb some of the checking - that's probably not a realistic hope however. If you use deckover my suggestion is to use very coarse sand paper to leave a rougher surface, that's what it's designed to bond to. Areas that were rough have held up the best, areas that were sanded smooth the worst....

edit - and yes I'm super run-on sentence guy!
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Old 05-19-2015   #10
 
East of the Pine beatle, Colorado
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Epoxies are generally not UV resistant- so they require treatment with a UV stable product like Spar urethane anyway.

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