Tributary 14hd- Frame setup options? - Page 3 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 3 Days Ago   #21
 
Denver, Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 499
I have a 14 foot boat with a rowframe Gary frame I put together three years ago that has been very satisfactory.

It's the common configuration many have mentioned:

Bay 1: wide bench seat/hatch over drop bag.
Bay 2: cooler
Bay 3: rower plus two rocket box slings
Bay 4: dry box/rower seat
Stern: Santa bag (awesome)
Side rails: wood deck with a couple ammo cans and water bottles strapped as needed.

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Old 3 Days Ago   #22
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly By Night View Post
I got it used, I beleive it started out as a Bighorn I. I did add an extra cross bar so my cooler and box could be cuddled. My frame is 60" wide and 68" long to give you an idea of fitment, I am a gangly person so my rowing bay is longer than most. The 6" oar towers that come with the NRS frames are worthless, I would suggest piecing together what you need or seeing if you can pay a bit to go to 8's maybe even 10's depending on your height and rowing position.

Gangly people unite!!

I'm 6'-6" and need a 24" rower's bay. Shorter people don't need to give up that much space in other bays.



If you dislike the boring silver anodized NRS tubes, you can get all your parts powder-coated. Local place around here charged $300 for a full frame. Makes a gorgeous color contrast to your boat if you're so inclined.



Quote:
When I looked at everything bags Ray at Tough River Stuff had the best setup, the material is doubled over so you get 2 layers of mesh over everything and the price cant be beat. I found myself wanting a fancier closing system and handholds for a passenger, now I own it I have no desire for either.

I went the opposite direction--super simple. Bought a mesh tarp from tarpsonline.com, sewed it to a piece of trampoline fabric for the floor, and added grommets around the perimeter. Use two 4' cam straps through the grommets around the top, one up the back, join them at the top. Two 12' straps crisscross over everything and it's all tied in and down. I'm in $90 and a Sunday afternoon for the whole thing. I really like the grommet lacing up the center back. It splays open wide and is stupid easy to load/unload.










But Ray makes awesome stuff.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #23
$5 shower
 
Historic Montrose, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1977
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Posts: 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by Down River Equipment View Post
We have run 76" 4-bay frames on 14' Tributaries. The kick isn't very abrupt on the boat and our rounded corners allow for a little more length than a square corner frame. Give us a ring if you would like to go over some details.
Thank you. I love your products.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #24
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Historic Montrose, Colorado
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Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
(Snip)

You can't go WAY up onto the curve, but it seems that 6" front and rear won't be awful, and the 12" will be well-used. Seems you could fit (3)x 16" bays plus a 24" rower's bay plus (5) x 1.5" crossbars in an ~80" frame length.
I think this is the ticket, I can go to 78" and likely add a larger than 12" bay in the front, free folks from sitting on the cooler and lower them down so they're not sitting on a grand throne.

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Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
There are 48"h and 54"h biminis. Which do you have?


I like my "stuff" in a drop bag so it's suspended from the frame and not rubbing directly on the floor.
I have the 54". I've done a cad design for a riser which would add about five inches to the height but my bro with the 3d printer hasn't gotten it printed.

I like the drop bag also...If I could add an extra bay, raise my bimini and put something to keep my everything bag from riding on the floor...I'd be ready for April.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #25
 
Eagle, Colorado
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 94
I have two rows of d rings on the bottom of my everything bag... I rig the bottom row to the interior D rings and the upper row to the exterior D rings. this keeps it suspended and from collapsing on itself.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #26
 
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Kalispell, Montana
Paddling Since: 1997
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Originally Posted by Flaco View Post
put something to keep my everything bag from riding on the floor...I'd be ready for April.

I put my beaver board in my everything bag (more precisely, I cut the bottom of my everything bag to fit around my beaver board. I punched holes and crimped in harbor freight grommets that match up with my beaver board holes--which match up with my boat's d-rings...so the beaver board/everything bag are suspended by loop straps and it's not riding on the floor.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #27
Never enough free time
 
Red Lodge, Montana
Paddling Since: 1998
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If you are budget conscious, speed rail fittings and tubing from your local metal supply costs about 1/2 as much as a bighorn. I shopped around and found the fittings for $6/ea https://www.zoro.com/hollaender-fitt...-7/i/G5722107/
I've been running this way for about three years and the only drawback is that I can see how you "maybe" could pull a frame apart if you were doing a z-drag to unpin the boat. I run a 15' boat and managed to squeeze 5 bays in. Kitchen Box - Cooler - rower's bay - drybox - and an 8" bay with a double rocket box sling for the groover.

I am a tool freak and got a spool gun for my MIG for welding aluminum and am going to clone a DRE frame. No because I have any issues with my current frame, just because I can DRE's use Hollaender fittings so don't freak out that anything less than the NRS fittings are unsuitable for a frame.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #28
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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Originally Posted by MontanaLaz View Post
I've been running this way for about three years and the only drawback is that I can see how you "maybe" could pull a frame apart if you were doing a z-drag to unpin the boat.

You could always through-drill the speedrail fittings (once you get your setup dialed) and use PTO pins or through-bolts...or even just bolt/pin the corners and leave the intermediate crossbars mobile.
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Old 1 Day Ago   #29
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Historic Montrose, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MontanaLaz View Post
If you are budget conscious, speed rail fittings and tubing from your local metal supply costs about 1/2 as much as a bighorn. I shopped around and found the fittings for $6/ea https://www.zoro.com/hollaender-fitt...-7/i/G5722107/
I've been running this way for about three years and the only drawback is that I can see how you "maybe" could pull a frame apart if you were doing a z-drag to unpin the boat. I run a 15' boat and managed to squeeze 5 bays in. Kitchen Box - Cooler - rower's bay - drybox - and an 8" bay with a double rocket box sling for the groover.

I am a tool freak and got a spool gun for my MIG for welding aluminum and am going to clone a DRE frame. No because I have any issues with my current frame, just because I can DRE's use Hollaender fittings so don't freak out that anything less than the NRS fittings are unsuitable for a frame.
I think this is maybe a slippery slope. DRE uses 1.5" tubing and welds the corners which could be an important distinction. My main boating pal made his own frame w fittings from frontier play and has had some problems. YMMV.

I wonder if I could find the two pieces of 78" aluminum at the lower price without taking a bath on shipping. NRS will send them to me for $150. A brief internet search didn't show another good option at that quantity.
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Old 1 Day Ago   #30
Never enough free time
 
Red Lodge, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
You could always through-drill the speedrail fittings (once you get your setup dialed) and use PTO pins or through-bolts...or even just bolt/pin the corners and leave the intermediate crossbars mobile.
Drilling through the speed rails was on the list but then I saw several pictures of failed fittings where the cracks started at the point where they are drilled. Instead, I bent some corners on my buddies tubing bender and am going to slug and bolt the corners. This way I'll have diamond plate side rails and still be able to break it down to fit it into a plane. I figure I'll be about $600 in for a frame comparable to a $1,700 DRE or Eddyline that I can still break down. I bought the aluminum stock for the slugs on Amazon for something like $1/foot then just a couple of bucks more for stainless bolts and nylocks. The only drawback is that when you don't have machine shop accuracy for the holes when you drill them you just need to stamp or otherwise mark everything so you can get it back together without pulling your hair out.

@Flaco,
You're right about the welded corners, see above. I went with 1.25 tubing so that I could use NRS Oar Towers instead of the DRE style, which I don't like. The tensile and yield strength of either 1.25 or 1.5 sch 40 6061 aluminum is so off the charts relative to all of the other failure points on a raft/frame combo that it doesn't realistically matter.

Inner and outer rails will be welded together and the bow and stern non-speed rail connections will be slugged and bolted if you can follow along with what I am saying. It ultimately becomes a hybrid. The slugged connections are for all intents and purposes like NRS fittings, the adjustable bay fittings are speed rail, and the diamond plate is welded providing the rigidity to the sides.

I figure that if I run into a situation where the frame fails then I have much bigger problems anyway.
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