Trailer Lights for a submersible trailer - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 03-08-2015   #1
 
Coeur d'Alene, idaho
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Trailer Lights for a submersible trailer

Just wondering if people have ideas/unique designs re the best way to wire lights for a submersible trailer. I was kicking around the idea of using magnetized removable lights and just taking them off when I dunk the trailer but I wanted to get other people's thoughts.

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Old 03-08-2015   #2
 
Pinecliffe, Colorado
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These should work or something similar that fits your rig. http://www.harborfreight.com/one-pai...html?hftref=cj I wouldn't use anything other than LED, they use a lot less power and you don't have to change them and have 1157s on hand for those annoying old school lights that always go out. Or you can just unplug regular lights before backing down the ramp.

One Pair Submersible Trailer LED Lights
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Old 03-08-2015   #3
 
Wondervu, CO, Colorado
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Pretty much all of my trailer light problems went away when I upgraded to LED lights and installed a ground wire (not using the frame for ground). I also put any wires running underneath in some flexible plastic conduit to protect them from gravel. The kit I got was not specifically rated for submersible, just the cheap of f the shelf LED kit from the local discount auto store. They are similar to these...

.http://www.sears.com/maxxtow-70205-1...&mktRedirect=y

I regularly submerge them during loading and unloading and have had zero problems in over 5 years.
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Old 03-08-2015   #4
 
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glenwierd, Co.
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Sorry, Walmart l.e.d. submersible connections also need to be water tight. I.e. heat shrink. I've done this on 3 trailers as far as I know all 3 get dunked to the hubs and still signal.

Nonsense, I have not yet begun to defile myself
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Old 03-09-2015   #5
 
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Belgrade, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reyher85 View Post
Just wondering if people have ideas/unique designs re the best way to wire lights for a submersible trailer. I was kicking around the idea of using magnetized removable lights and just taking them off when I dunk the trailer but I wanted to get other people's thoughts.
I am in the process of modifying my trailer and am installing all new lights. I found a great ebay store (2 Red RV Truck Trailer Stop Tail Turn Light 11 LED 15" Low Profile USA Made | eBay) as no-one around here carries much of a selection and I wanted very low profile lights. What I bought is all sealed LED's so they can get submerged, just remember you also need to seal your connections so use the solder/heat shrink or crimp/heat shrink connectors with glue to seal. Otherwise you'll get corrosion on the wire if running while submerged. The solid ground is a great idea, especially if you have a tilt bed.

I should be installing my lights by mid week, I'll take a bunch of pics and post them when I do. I am supper stoked with my concept....I hope it comes out as I'm envisioning.
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Old 03-09-2015   #6
 
Jenks, Oklahoma
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Another vote for the sealed submersible LED trailer lights.

I did some looking around and ended up buying a kit that was at the top of the price list, thinking you get what you pay for. Which may or not be correct when dealing with LED lights.

I got mine because the regular bulbs were going out all the time on my original trailer lights plus the replacement regular bulb kit I installed to see if it would fix the problem. It did not.

Put in the LED system some time ago and zero problems since then.
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Old 03-09-2015   #7
Old Guy in a PFD
 
Colorado Springs, Colorado
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When Schutzie went to the dark side and bought a SeaRay the trailer that came with it was, shall we say, well used and abused. He redid the brakes and lights, which caused him to become somewhat of an expert on what trailer lights need to be so they are "water resistant".

Understand, your lights are subjected to much more abuse just being on your trailer than being dunked for a few minutes. When he purchased replacement lights he had "water resistant" lights, at a considerable premium price. An old salt at the store showed him the difference between "water resistant" and "inexpensive" lights. The housing and light sockets were identical, cause see, most of them are made by one manufacturer. The difference was the connectors and that the more expensive lights had a truly water tight grommet where the wires went through the light housing.

So. Couple of options for you
1) Simply disconnect the lights before you back your trailer in. They'll be dry before you need them. The only issue here is remembering to unplug and plug in your lights.
2) Some care installing your new lights will pretty much eliminate any issues.
a)Mount your lights as high as you can and ideally to the rear of something that will deflect road spray. High on a fender for example.
b) Use a single run of wire from the light to the plug. Where you must splice, heat shrink the splice. Twice.
c) Whatever plug you use, make sure it has good seals and that the seal where the wires go in actually seals.
d) A bit of grease in the sockets, at splices, and on the terminals in the plug will greatly reduce corrosion.
Schutzie has almost no experience with anything but the old fashioned 1157 bulbs, (cause he's an old fart) but most of the failures he had with his trailer lights involved hot bulbs hitting cold water (they will break). In practice the housing is almost water tight; as long as the upper half of the housing is pretty much sealed, any water that gets in won't get to the bulb or socket because an air pocket forms in the upper half of the housing. The rest of the system is pretty bullet proof, provided you don't actually launch your trailer by accident. In which case, you have greater issues to address.

A greater concern is the brakes and bearings; if you regularly submerge them launching or recovering your boat you will need to become intimately familiar with your brakes and bearings and such. I found that at minimum, an annual detailed inspection was mandatory. Plus, it was a good excuse to drink beer and cuss.
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Old 03-09-2015   #8
 
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Bozeman, Montana
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Brakes? For a raft trailer?


Jim
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Old 03-10-2015   #9
 
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glenwierd, Co.
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Haulin a 6 stack

Nonsense, I have not yet begun to defile myself
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Old 03-10-2015   #10
 
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Belgrade, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Panama Red View Post
Haulin a 6 stack

Nonsense, I have not yet begun to defile myself
6 paddle boats stacked on a trailer still weigh less than 1000 lbs. Still no need for trailer brakes. You're not stacking 6 expedition setups; no way, no how. 2 fully rigged and loaded boats might run 3K. Still no need for trailer brakes...unless your pulling it with your Prius. in which case you'd need auxiliary power as well
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