Strapping the frame - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 12-11-2016   #1
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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Strapping the frame

Just sitting out the mud month and geeking out to raft stuff.

I'm curious about all the different methods to strapping the frame to the raft. I've seen people do a larks head to the d ring. I've also seen straps looped around the frame two times then cinched down. I've seen rental boats use the loop straps permanently secured to both frame a d ring.

What's your tried and true methods ?

Tda
SLC ut

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Old 12-11-2016   #2
 
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Eugene, Oregon
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Also I'm super intrigued by strapping the frame to the inside of the boat. I've heard of people putting in interior d rings and strapping to the thwart spots. Why would this be advantageous?
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Old 12-11-2016   #3
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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Hyside have d rings on the inside along with the outside .
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Old 12-11-2016   #4
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The method I was taught for gear boats, is to go around the tubes and frame with four wide straps, then use normal straps to go from d-rings to frame, just to keep things from moving around. My mentors rational being, virtually everything you have is strapped to the frame, so don't trust D-rings, would suck to even have one corner rip loose in a flip, let alone if your boat were getting worked in the Lava Ledge hole or something equally heinous.

In all fairness, four good D-rings will probly hold your frame just fine, but I figure why temp the river god's? For day frames I just do the four corners to D-rings, I go around the D-ring, back through the buckle, then usually clove hitch around the frame before I go through the cam. The clove hitch around the frame is just another line of safety, if the bitter end of the strap breaks, it will still hold.
I still go around tubes with my gear boat.

It may all seem like overkill, but a frame busting loose would suck, and it's not a lot of extra work. Hope that all makes sense!
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Old 12-11-2016   #5
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I should Probably ad that going around tubes is more of a raft thing, I don't do that with my Cat, and a larger Cataraft just has so many D-rings and straps holding it all together, that I personally would not be worried about it, as long as things are in decent shape.

The factor of straps under the tubes snagging has been almost non existent, though they do where down from rubbing over rocks over time, and need replacing a bit sooner.
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Old 12-11-2016   #6
 
Eagle, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voodoo003 View Post
Also I'm super intrigued by strapping the frame to the inside of the boat. I've heard of people putting in interior d rings and strapping to the thwart spots. Why would this be advantageous?
Strapping the frame to inside d rings will give your boat more lateral rigidity and keep your tubes from being pushed in sideways when you hit a big hole or rock on the side. Having a cooler or dry box that spans the entire width between tubes will also do the same.
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Old 12-11-2016   #7
 
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Typically rafters just strap to the D-Rings with cam straps. I like to put an extra loop around the frame. That said, considering the importance of these straps, you want to make sure your D-Rings are sturdy and also that your cam straps are beefy. I use 1.5" cam straps for these, and just 1" cams for everything else on the boat.

-AH
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Old 12-11-2016   #8
 
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Eugene, Oregon
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I do a larks head at the d ring. This keeps the strap from sliding when I give it a good yank. Also I wrap around the frame because I'm superstitious.
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Old 12-11-2016   #9
 
Aurora, Colorado
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I have rigged my boat the way Mattman describes. (Same mentor.) I haven't done it that way in a long time, though. My reasoning is:
1. I think it's a pain.
2. I think it wears down your raft quite a bit, especially in the bail hole you're running the strap through.
3. I strap to 4 d-rings per side so if I lose a frame I've really done something stupid, and I probably deserve what I get.
4. If I do something so stupid that I needed to have straps around the tube, it was probably so stupid that the strap around the tube will tear the raft in half. I guess even if I lose ALL my shit, I'd like the rubber to still float.

I run my straps so that while standing in the boat, I can pull the tail of the strap. Nothing sucks more than trying to tighten a frame strap that's facing the wrong way, and eating shit right into the river.

Like Andy, I also use 1.5" straps for the main tie-downs. And don't discount the "crappy strap" factor. Straps really start to lose a lot of strength after a few seasons (3-5 depending on use?) from UV and when they start getting abrasion and cuts in them. I had a crappy strap break on me in Hell's Half Mile on the Middle Fork this September. I wound up in the water, underneath 3 bags full of about 15 roll-a-cots, and a table that all came loose when the strap broke. Fortunately there was another strap rigged through a strap/hole on all the gear. Unfortunately, it was at about 8:15 in the morning with ice still on the boat, and me in carharts and down. . .it was cold. On the plus side, the boat came unstuck with all that weight out of the boat!
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Old 12-12-2016   #10
 
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I go with 1-1/2" straps from 2 points at each corner.


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