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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #31
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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Another cool idea:
https://www.swagoffroad.com/Storage-Solutions_c_9.html

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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #32
 
Defiance, Colorado
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I like this style of mount because it involves no holes in your can.



Lots of other ideas out there. On our motor frames we used to run a long piece of round bar the length of the frame on each side. Spaced the width of a rocket box and up just enough to get a strap under.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #33
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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How many total pieces for the floor? Assuming it's a multi-piece design due to table size.

To connect the pieces to the tubing, introducing a mechanical fixture along with welding, such as "nesting" the plates inside the tubing where they are quasi wedged, with tubing on the front and back ends to reduce torsional stress, would provide insurance.

To join the plates together, what about bending offset flanges on them and fastening together using button head cap screws, or ideally, a stout rivet like huck bolts? If that isn't an option, grind a bevel and send it.

For the lengthwise plate to tubing weldments, definitely stitch weld. Throwing that much heat into alum could warp it into a pretzel and make it soft; however, you have a lot of trussing to prevent warping.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #34
 
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A few new progress photos.

Love the easy access storage ideas, thanks. Might have to try something like that.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #35
 
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Denver, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BGillespie View Post
How many total pieces for the floor? Assuming it's a multi-piece design due to table size.

To connect the pieces to the tubing, introducing a mechanical fixture along with welding, such as "nesting" the plates inside the tubing where they are quasi wedged, with tubing on the front and back ends to reduce torsional stress, would provide insurance.

To join the plates together, what about bending offset flanges on them and fastening together using button head cap screws, or ideally, a stout rivet like huck bolts? If that isn't an option, grind a bevel and send it.

For the lengthwise plate to tubing weldments, definitely stitch weld. Throwing that much heat into alum could warp it into a pretzel and make it soft; however, you have a lot of trussing to prevent warping.
Morning Bill, the floor will probably be two pieces, the plasma table we have it 20' long. I think if I did it as one piece it would be too long to handle and I have not seen 20" sheet of aluminum but I am sure they exist.

The nest idea is not bad but I fear that would keep the bottom pipe frame under the floor and create snag points to get hung up on rocks.

I have thought about a mechanical fastener, I was thinking of using large gauge rivets but I worry that drilling a lot of holes in the pipe might weaken it. I would like to figure out a way to do a secondary fastener of some sort. An engineer at my work is helping me come up with a model and address some of these issues, once we get a model built he is going to run some basic stress analysis on it to see and we are going to play with different options.

Part of the reason for the cooler support system I mentioned in a prior post is to add additional weldments and reduce the over all load on the floor.

Yes I need to be very careful when I am welding the floor, I already have a bit of distortion in the frame from heat. Planning on 3" to 4" stitch welds on the perimeter and the some plug welds on the cross bars. I have been pre-heating the welds to reduce stress and distortion, do you think I should do any post heat to try and anneal or temper this frame? I need to do some research but have been thinking it might beneficial but would be tough to do on such a large work piece.

Thanks for the input and the help!

J.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #36
 
Defiance, Colorado
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Just a thought,
You could weld some angle around the perimeter of the floor bays to give yourself a tab for a mechanical floor connection and help stiffen the tube at the same time.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #37
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noahfecks View Post
Just a thought,
You could weld some angle around the perimeter of the floor bays to give yourself a tab for a mechanical floor connection and help stiffen the tube at the same time.
That is kind of the plan at the moment, I am not going to run the perimeter of the tubes but going to add them as additional cross members. They will be just wide enough to fit my coolers then I can strap them down to those. Hopefully removing the weight of the cooler from the sheet metal all together.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #38
 
Salida, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jspoon14 View Post
Morning Bill, the floor will probably be two pieces, the plasma table we have it 20' long. I think if I did it as one piece it would be too long to handle and I have not seen 20" sheet of aluminum but I am sure they exist.
J.

Go out to Brighton and visit Bob at ALRECO, if anyone would have 20 foot sheets he would. I've seen some 20 feet long there out of 1" thick, so 1/8 inch would probably be in stock.

Don't forget your checkbook though, ALRECO is a lot of things, not the least of which is expensive.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #39
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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For the floor, I've thought about sleeving the lower rails and bolting.

For Sch 40 pipe, I usually don't preheat and have had good results thus far. About what amp are you welding at?
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Old 1 Week Ago   #40
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BGillespie View Post
For the floor, I've thought about sleeving the lower rails and bolting.

For Sch 40 pipe, I usually don't preheat and have had good results thus far. About what amp are you welding at?
My welder is only 200 amp and it takes while to get the puddle started and not until am I close to the end of the weld do I get good penetration. I am going to upgrade to a 325 amp but just does not seem to be enough at the moment, when I am doing Tee joints when I am welding into the main pipe of a joint. Anywhere I am welding the end/edge it works great, but joints are not a problem.

Might be over thinking/stressing about it....
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