Replacement D-Rings - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 04-28-2015   #1
 
cedar city, Utah
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Replacement D-Rings

Another project for the old Avon we bought is replacing and adding a series of D-Rings. I have the first 4 installed and I am curious if I need to wait the recommended 8-12 hours on the glue instructions to inflate or if that is just for patches over tears/holes.

Secondly, the ideal spot for two more would mean removing two old ones and placing it over part of the same spot. Does anyone know the effect old hypalon glue will have on a new bond? I removed one D-ring yesterday and was able to remove the vast majority of any rubber backing from the ring but some of the old glue remains. I assume this is fairly common. Thoughts? I can just place the D-ring in a slightly different spot but curious about the issue of old glue and new patches/handles/d-rings for this and future projects with the rig.

Thanks in advance. I can see why people pay professionals to do this work (not much of an option in SW Utah) but its also satisfying work. Nothing quite like seeing a project come together.

Phillip

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Old 04-28-2015   #2
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I set everything that is possible to set inflated, inflated. I would wait for those d rings to cure that you set deflated but then I would set the rest of the d rings inflated. As far as the old glue goes, I would get it off. I sand all hypalon down to bare fabric (not the weave/scrim material, just good fresh grey in your case) before sticking any new patches/drings/etc. Mark off the new d ring spots and sand off the glue that lays inside the new d ring area. Get fresh fabric exposed, clean it well and you'll get a better bond. Prep work is everything when it come to glueing. Anybody can smear glue, getting it to last decades and not making a huge mess takes a little more time and care. Good luck, sounds like you have a good start on your project. Gotta love old Avons!!
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Old 04-28-2015   #3
 
cedar city, Utah
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Thanks, Zach. I debated keeping the boat inflated with the new D-rings but went with what I deduced from the glue paperwork. In hindsight it would have been easier and more effective to keep it inflated. Live and learn. I think I managed to do some good prep work before setting the glue from everything I read. It took me about 5-6 hours to prep the four rings and glue them (got better and more efficient with each one). The only thing that went differently than I read was the glue set to the "knuckle test" tacky phase a lot quicker than predicted. I assume that has to do with the relatively warm and dry air here and the use of the accelerator.

Will try working on the old glue some more. It took about 1.5 hours to get the D-Ring off yesterday and I worked a while at sanding it but the glue just didn't seem to want to thin or give much at all. Will try with some different sandpaper. I don't own one of those nylon disks some people talk about.

Thanks again for the advice.

Phillip
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Old 04-28-2015   #4
 
Evergreen, Colorado
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A drumel on slow speed with a sanding wheel works pretty well. If you get the speed right, when you push to hard the disc will stop spinning. That way you don't gouge the fabric or anything. Make small concentric circles and it does pretty well.
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Old 04-29-2015   #5
 
River City, Oregon
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I think you deduced correctly. The warmer and less humid the faster the glue sets up for application.

The more old glue you get off the better the surface for new glue. I'm a big fan of mechanical removal of old glue. It's so much faster than sand paper. I like using a paint and rust remover disk that fits on a drill. They're like $10 or less at the hardware stores. You have to go slow and be careful but it works great. Then follow up with sandpaper on tough to get to areas.
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Old 04-29-2015   #6
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
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If you are taking off old D-rings and replacing them, you can use a heat gun to separate the old D-rings from their original gray covers and re-use the original gray covers on your new D-rings. I did this on my old Avon and it worked wonderfully.


It was a little extra work (and annoying at the time) but now that it is done, it looks great and I am very happy with it.
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Old 04-29-2015   #7
 
cedar city, Utah
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So....I followed the glue directions but there was no information about direction of the D-Ring itself so sadly I wasn't paying attention to that detail. I bought D-Rings that have 2 webbing straps total but are asymmetrical in design, i.e. the finished product looks like on strap on 1 side and 3 strap on the other side. Is there a functional, i.e. force difference, in which of those sides is down and which is up? I can't imagine a real function difference other than one lays a bit flatter than the other.

Thoughts? I wish I had thought of this before placing the first 4 but they are well placed now. I am assuming I will place it with 3 straps on the down side if there is no difference. My hope is there would public documentation somewhere if they were designed to be directional and I have not found anything yet.

Phillip
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Old 04-29-2015   #8
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That d ring design is the best and its called a crows foot. The "3 straps" should go opposite the direction of pull. So, if the direction of pull is up, the "3 straps" should go on the bottom. One of the only times the "3 straps" go on the top is for people who put d rings on the inside of the boat for suspending the floor. The pull in that scenario is down so the crows foot or "3 straps" would go on top.
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Old 04-29-2015   #9
 
cedar city, Utah
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Thanks again, Zach. I will place the remaining d-rings as described. 2 of the 4 I placed yesterday are not aligned properly so I can only hope I don't generate enough force to damage them. Wish they had come with documentation or orientation on the back but ultimately I should have asked questions first.

Owe ya a beer sometime.

Phillip
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