Have a small leak from where the top of the valve meets the floor fabric. I'd like to pull the valve out and clean it all up. Is the flange/nut on the inside free to move or is it somehow attached to the inside of the floor fabric? Just wondering if this is a job best done with extra hands or not.
You may have already tried but if its leaking around the valve and not out of it you may be able to give it a 1/8 turn and snug it up. I have never seen one not seal on an NRS if it was seated properly and tight.
If you do have to pull it, pop off your silt trap first and see if the valve itself is leaking, they almost always are. If so, clean that while its apart.
Loosen the valve with the floor inflated and then deflate to take it out. The "nut" won't go anywhere if its deflated.
When you re-seat it make sure it lines up in the marks that are there. Also make sure you don't pinch an i beam. You can snug it up and then inflate before doing the final tighten. If there is an i beam in there it'll pop out when you inflate and then you can tighten.
Hear hear!
God I hate a fucking PRV.
Something that manufacturers install to cover there ass from a warranty claim, in case stupid people pull their boat out of the water, and leave it in the sun when it’s a hundred degrees out.
I always plug mine, and take responsibility for my own I-beams.
I did loosen it and tried to reseat it, still bubbles. Headed out for a few days on the green next week, will remove it after. In the meantime it's good for a day or 2 which is ok for now.
There are 10 different flavors of Relief top end pressure. NRS only sells one. I cooked a Selway trip with a blown floor...Good thing it was 7'
PRV's are a moving part just like a wheel bearing, pull it apart and maintain it and replace if necessary or not face the consequences.... alot of money or wet feet!!!!
They come off and go back on pretty easy. Crack the seal with a quarter turn with the floor inflated, deflate the floor for the rest of the unscrewing... and don't lose the internal nut. No big deal if you just move calmly and don't get distracted halfway through and knock the nut into god-knows-where inside the floor. It's easy.
I have struggled with these leaking (out of the valve, not out of the seal with the floor) but never thought it was too big a deal to take it out every once in a while and run it under a sink while working the spring to clear out the grit that makes the valve leak. I can do 10 trips in a row in clean water without maintaining it -- 1 trip in silty water and I have to clean it out. I also carry a cork or a rubber plug designed for it, and if I ever get sick of it leaking I just cram that it and say forget it.
But you're asking about the seal with the floor: I can't imagine any reason why it should leak if you find the correct tightness and if everything is clean before you put it back together. But yeah, like somebody said, make a gasket for it if you'd like. I carry a spare one of these valves in my repair kit for longer trips so if you really had to you could buy a new one and use the old one as a spare... who knows... float on
FYI, the leak has been stopped. I pulled the valve and cleaned it, it wasn't the issue. It appears to have been removed a few times in the past, multiple seating rings noted in the fabric, also looks like someone used a thin layer of silicon to stop it from leaking before. Cleaned all that old crap off and re-seated the valve. No leak.
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