Re lacing an Aire - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 06-22-2015   #1
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Re lacing an Aire

After 15 years, the floor lacing on the Super Puma finally gave out. It was on the way out anyway so I ordered the rope last year, but never got around to doing it. I think it was after our mission yesterday and I never bled any of the chambers. I have watched a few videos from Aire and searched the interwebs, but wanted to know if anybody else has done it and if you know of any tricks or tips that might help me out.

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Old 06-22-2015   #2
Shapp
 
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Once you have the line, melt and dress the end so it is tapered. Heat up about a 4 inch long section of the end you intend to thread after you have dressed the end. Heat it up just enough to make it somewhat rigid. start in the middle. Follow the lacing pattern that existed before you took the old rope out.
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Old 06-22-2015   #3
 
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Soak the rope in warm water and 303 mixture helps make it easier to lace the floor. Use a torch and keep flame away you want the rope to shrink a bit so like a pencil, creates a needle, you cut that stuff off anyways.
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Old 06-23-2015   #4
 
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Wear gloves. Rubber grip, garden-type gloves work well.
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Old 06-23-2015   #5
 
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Would this work?

What if you melted, taped or otherwise fastened the new cord to the old one and pulled it through?

I have been putting off re-lacing my floor for several years.
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Old 06-23-2015   #6
 
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FWIW, If I were to re-do my Aire boats again, I would consider lacing in some stainless "O" rings strategically around the perimeter. It would be nice to have places to easily run cam straps through for rigging gear, at least on my Puma it is nearly impossible to run a cam strap through the lacing when inflated.

Good luck with the project!
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Old 06-23-2015   #7
 
Boise, Idaho
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Aire has a video out there detailing how to lace the floor

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Old 06-23-2015   #8
 
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Removable chain links

Instead of lacing some rings in, just attach some removable chain links. Get them at the hardware store.
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Old 06-23-2015   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grifgav View Post
Aire has a video out there detailing how to lace the floor
That is the video I watched and referenced in my OP. I asked because I knew that other people on this board have done it before and have some great out of the box ideas, like wearing nitrile garden gloves or using steel rings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceB View Post
Instead of lacing some rings in, just attach some removable chain links. Get them at the hardware store.
This is what I have been doing for years. Split rings. As of now though, I may just do the solid rings in a few places as I HAVE to re lace the floor. It was the thwart strap(s) that rubbed the rope through, so having a few o rings in the thwart locations would make it easier to lace in the thwarts when transitioning from oar rig to paddle boat with less stress on the rope.

The big question, is where the hell in the garage did I stash the rope. I know its there, but the disaster area is not find it friendly right now.
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Old 07-13-2015   #10
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I found the rope the middle of last week. I had also ordered 18 Strapworks 1 in Stainless Steel O Rings.

Total time was about 4 hours. First step was to mark my long term thwart locations using a sharpie on the bottom of the boat. I them marked 6 places that I like to tie stuff down to the floor. These marks were so that I would know where I wanted to put the O rings. I found the middle of the 2 ropes and marked them as per the video. Next was to blow torch the rope into a "rat tail". Make sure that you do this before you wet the rope. I wore nitrle garden gloves and soaked the ropes in dish soap and water. I then strung the boat by cutting about 2 ft of the old rope out as I ran the new rope through (repeat). I had started with an inflated floor, but soon realized that a flat floor is needed to properly tension the rope.

I am really liking the O rings and would recommend to anybody that has to relace a floor. It used to take me about an hour to lace in the thwarts. Took me all of 10 minutes with the new O rings. The 6 other locations are great for tying in the cooler, watershed, etc. I wish that I had done about 4 more locations. I can and will continue to use the split rings in locations that may move, but the ease of having the new rings in place makes rigging that much easier and faster.

Next steps will be to pull and service the prv.
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