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Raft Trailer Design

37K views 40 replies 30 participants last post by  silverspurs 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm looking to use a utility trailer (5'x10') with 2 foot sidewalls to carry my 14' NRS Otter. I wanted to get a utility trailer so I could use it for an ATV or hauling firewood as well as the raft. I also figured with the 2' walls I could easily transport all my tubs and camping gear inside the trailer with the raft on top. I've read a bunch of forums and had one question I'd love help answering.

DO I NEED TO BUILD A SOLID DECK FOR THE ENTIRE RAFT TO SIT ON?

One thought was that I could build 10" wide runners down the side railings using 2x10's to slide the raft on and off (I'd build a roller across the back for ease of loading). The tubes would rest centered onto the 2x10's and well supported but I'm concerned that not having any support for the entire raft. Has anyone build a raft trailer that was essentially a rail system instead of a full platform.

Thanks in advance for any advice!!!
 
#6 ·
Here is a photo of my 5x10 trailer with 13 ft super puma. I have two pressure treated 2x6” going across, bolted on with wing nuts. The boards go on and come off in just a few minutes. Works good for me. I originally made five boards going across, but two work good enough. I also made a roller bar that comes off with the pull of two pins.
 

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#7 ·
I towed mine like that for years; fourteen footer on 2 x 10 side bunks. Worked fine, but the boat did sometimes shift on rough roads. Never came off a bunk, but there was perceptible movement. I recently added a few boards across and it's MUCH better. You might consider doing the same as the additional time and cost required are minimal and you won't have to take as much care to get the boat positioned just so. But again, what you have in mind will work just fine if that's what you decide.
 
#8 ·
https://www.whitewaterworthy.com/product/12-rmr-package/


I'm looking to use a utility trailer (5'x10') with 2 foot sidewalls to carry my 14' NRS Otter. I wanted to get a utility trailer so I could use it for an ATV or hauling firewood as well as the raft. I also figured with the 2' walls I could easily transport all my tubs and camping gear inside the trailer with the raft on top. I've read a bunch of forums and had one question I'd love help answering......
DO I NEED TO BUILD A SOLID DECK FOR THE ENTIRE RAFT TO SIT ON? One thought was that I could build 10" wide runners down the side railings using 2x10's to slide the raft on and off (I'd build a roller across the back for ease of loading). The tubes would rest centered onto the 2x10's and well supported but I'm concerned that not having any support for the entire raft. Has anyone build a raft trailer that was essentially a rail system instead of a full platform.
Thanks in advance for any advice!!!
 
#9 ·
since this thread is about trailer design, i have to ask why everyone seems to be in love with the high sided utility trailers? What advantage do you think it provides over say a low height flat snowmobile deck trailer?


Do you actually ever store anything under the trailer? I can see if you are taking an un-rigged boat(s), but then why would you buy a dedicated trailer and not keep your boat inflated and rigged all season (if not all year).


A snowmobile trailer should have a lower deck, making it easier to load/unload at shallow boat ramps. it should also have a smaller drag profile at ramps where there may be current trying to push your trailer downstream.
 
#10 ·
for day trips close to town I prefer my low deck raft trailer.. For long multi day trips where I travel i prefer my friends utility trailer. This is so we can stack boats on top and store coolers, dry boxes and multi-day gear underneath.

I can get away with my low deck trailer with three boats stacked on the trailer and all the gear stacked in the back of my pickup.. If i did not have a pickup this would not be an option at all..
 
#12 ·
I bought a 4x8 utility trailer up in Fort Collins, CO. Colorado Built is the manufacturer. 4x8 with a 3500# axle and 15" tires. Start with a solid foundation. 3" C-channel for the main frame construction...not shitty angle.

I built my deck for it at home over a weekend or two. Tilt deck with rollers on rear. Extended/Collapsible tongue added 3' to the trailer to fit larger boat and better towing. Removable hand winch mount up front. My deck is big enough for a 16' boat to fit comfortable on the side tubes. I can fit all my camping gear for a family of 4 underneath in the 4x8 area. (coolers/dryboxes/tents/chairs etc)
The 1" square tube steel frame deck is removable if absolutely necessary for big landscape jobs, but it is rarely needed. I recently added plastic lattice to the deck for easier sliding on/off.
 

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#13 ·
Regarding the snowmobile versus utility trailer with sides.... for me, I prefer the larger 15” tires on the utility trailer, versus the snowmobile tire size.

Having a trailer that serves multiple purposes is best. I like the sides for moving things other than rafting equipment. I like my sides for storage under the raft. I run a lot of day trips with 4-6 people paddling, and we try to run the same 4 mile stretch three times in one day. The dam release is 4 to 5 hours in duration. Paddles helmets life jackets get thrown in the trailer. Raft on top with a cam strap across the front, second strap across the back. People climb into the 7 seatbelt Toyota Highlander, and hit the gas back to the put-in. Speed and efficiency is king.
 
#14 ·
I keep my boat rigged and inflated all year, but for multiday trips I don't want hundreds of pounds of cooler, dry box, food and gear in there bouncing around while the boat is inflating and deflating up and down passes. It sounds like others do it just fine but that's just the way I've done it. It is still infinitely faster to move the items in and out of the boat and trailer than having to fully rig or derig a boat. You have to winch it up higher but that's really the only downside. Even for a day trip I'm really only moving the cooler, oars, and a dry bag. I leave the table strapped in with soft goods under in the drop bag all the time since that isn't much weight.


 
#17 ·
I switched from a snowmobile trailer to a utility this year.

I found the SM trailer to be really one dimensional. I don't have a sled or ATV so all it really worked for was the raft. The little tires wore out all the time and did not inspire any confidence. The deck was a pain to maintain.

The utility trailer can haul all kinds of stuff. With a winch and rollers, loading is a nonissue. The only thing that regularly lives beneath the boat are my oars but, it's nice to have that easy access storage. Big wheels are mo better.
 
#18 ·
I had a utility trailer and now have a flatbed trailer (however it has big wheels not those little snowmobile trailer ones).

I hated the utility trailer. You think to yourself, oh its nice to put the cooler in there and store stuff under the raft, but in reality you cant get to that stuff easily. I would put my cooler under the raft and then couldn't get to it to add Ice or grab a beer.

The flat bed style is great, I leave the raft fully rigged. Its easy to load and unload, I would never get another style. However, I prefer the larger tires
 
#21 ·
4x8 Iron Eagle

I've been pretty happy towing my 14' SOTAR around on my 4x8 Iron Eagle. I routered channels in the bottom of the 2x6 laterals and just set it on top of the trailer side walls and strapped it down with cam straps. Works great.
 

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#35 ·
4x8 Iron Eagle

I've been pretty happy towing my 14' SOTAR around on my 4x8 Iron Eagle. I routered channels in the bottom of the 2x6 laterals and just set it on top of the trailer side walls and strapped it down with cam straps. Works great.
i was looking at ordering an Iron Eagle for farm work and hauling, but also getting some add ons like a roller an winch to haul my 15’ Maravia. Do you think a 10’ x 5’ would work? Or best to have a 12’x6’? Raft is 7’ wide to outer tubes.
 
#24 ·
Raft trailer info

Looks like you've gotten some info. Maybe ok if I add on? I adapted an ATV trailer for my 2 inflatable river boats - 1 is 12' with 2 person frame: 1 to fish, 1 to row. Other is 8'. Trailer is 4'6"x8'3". I mounted 2 2x6 decking planks across the trailer's width. It worked great for several rivers thru many different states/rivers. I also used it for my own solo trips. Trailer is 4'6"x8'3". I added a couple locking cargo boxes I got from Walmart. I screwed them down thru the mesh floor.
One clue I got from a friend who had done this before was to use hollow Square roller tube inside the round one to roll boat on/off. It doesn't hang up like some round cores do. I cut & added pvc rings to each end of the roller. This also helps to keep boat/raft rolling on/off cleanly.
Happy floating/rowing!
 
#25 ·
I guess I kind of have the best of both worlds. I bought a raft-specific steel trailer that I can convert to a "utility style" trailer if I want. Steel construction with a 3500 pound torsion axle and EZ-Lube hubs. Deckover flatbed with vinyl coatig on the top side. Even with 15" wheels, the winch can pull my raft up over the roller and onto the deck. The raft lives on the trailer. It has stake pockets all the way around, so if I'm going to load up with more gear than I want to carry in my truck bed or loaded in the raft, I can put stake boards up and carry multiple boats rolled and all the appurtenances.
 

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#34 ·
Storage, storage, storage! I'm currently building out my 6 x 10 with 12" sides. 2 x 12 across the back that sides down into channels on each side. One end will have a lock so it cant be pulled out. Just lined the inside with wood, then decking the top with 3/4" pressure treated. Under the deck, has 12" tall dividers that support the deck. One long bay is 12" wide. That the the oars are stored in, lift end and slide oars in. Then the rest is divided up into four bays. With top hatches on hinges. And also have a latch with lock. In between each of the four bays, on top of the plywood are 2 x 6s run across the trailer, these are carpeted. So when you roll raft on it rides on the carpet. Leaving a gap for clearance to the hinges and latches. No rubbing of stuff on raft.. Having lockable storage is clutch. We always bring more than we need on the river. And extra beer will be there at the end of the trip. Ill post a pic. Cheers
 
#36 · (Edited by Moderator)
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#40 ·
I bought my first raft this fall on a trip back to MT and thought that I could deflate roll and pack my new raft and frame into my truck. Well I could have if the bed was not already full... So I had a week to figure out how I am going to bring my new raft home. All said and done the trailer build was about $2000 including a new Utility Trailer. I was hoping to find a use utility trailer, but couldn't find one that meet my need for the build.

The build took me about 4 - 4 hour days and I ended up with a 5' x 9' raft trailer. The christening trip was a 600 mile trip home consisting of driving on the interstate for 95% at 75 mph with no issues other than stopping to adjust the air in the raft.
  • Raft: Outcast PAC 1300 (5'-8" x 13')
  • Trailer: Carry on 5' x 8' 2k Utility Trailer(~$1200)
  • Fame:
    • 2" x 4" x 8" treated boards (5 boards i think..)
    • 3" framing screws
    • 3/8" galvanized steel bolts, washers, and nuts (to connect frame to trailer)
  • Deck:
    • 3/4" treated plywood (2 boards of 4' x 8' had left over)
    • 2-1/2" framing screw
  • Tie down D-Rings (Required longer hardware to pass through 2" x 4")
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