Proloks nex-gen II - Page 2 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 02-17-2019   #11
 
Calgary, Alberta
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 480
An idea I just had...

Don't use the sleeves or the doughnut that comes with the pro-loks, and use a normal convertable oar-right. If it fits in the jaws of the pro-loks.

Maybe not as good an idea for expensive cataract oars, but with Carlisle (which I will use on my boat) it's probably ok.

Edit: convertable oar-rights only work with sleeves.

I agree with the suggestion above that it would be great if pro-lok doughnuts worked with normal oar sleeves.

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Old 02-17-2019   #12
 
codycleve's Avatar
 
salmon, Idaho
Paddling Since: 2004
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,027
You can slide certain blades in and out. The origonal floating cataracts are a bit to fat.. i think the rest would slide out just fine. No problems with carlisle blades..

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Old 02-17-2019   #13
 
Calgary, Alberta
Join Date: May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codycleve View Post
You can slide certain blades in and out. The origonal floating cataracts are a bit to fat.. i think the rest would slide out just fine. No problems with carlisle blades..

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Good info.... Thanks.
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Old 02-17-2019   #14
 
East MT, WestMT, Both sides of the Yellowstone
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Originally Posted by cupido76 View Post
That's exactly what I was worried about.

I wonder if you could cut the oar right portion down to 1" or less. It looks like it's just the piece of the collar that is cut out of the top of the oar-right.
You could easily cut the locking part down with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel. Iíd suggest cutting it to a taper so it would align itself.
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Old 02-17-2019   #15
 
East MT, WestMT, Both sides of the Yellowstone
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Originally Posted by idaho_h2o View Post
I bought some last year and didn't run the oar right portion. Seemed to work okay but I made it less than a mile into the SF Salmon and the sleeves started getting gouged so I could no longer feather. I was continually cutting away portions several times a day as more sleeve would get gouged and bunch up in the lock. I called the owner and he sent me some more sleeves and I plan to try again. I'll probably try to sand down the edges of the plastic lock but really wish he would build these as a solid donut without the oar right cut out or size them for regular plastic sleeves that would be much tougher.
I see how that could happen with the new style.

Call Dan and have some full circle ones sent to you. I have several sets like this. The full capture is sweet. Tell him Neff sent you.
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Old 02-17-2019   #16
 
Calgary, Alberta
Join Date: May 2009
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Originally Posted by spider View Post
You could easily cut the locking part down with a hacksaw or cutoff wheel. Iíd suggest cutting it to a taper so it would align itself.
Thanks for confirming that.
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Old 02-17-2019   #17
 
Join Date: May 2005
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Originally Posted by codycleve View Post
I probably have 500 miles on my sleeves and they look good as new... im trying to think of what would off caused your problem. Perhaps not heat shrank tight enough?

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Definitely not a problem with the install- heat shrink was super tight and uniform. Are you running the oar rite? If so, I'd expect you wouldn't have any problems.

I'm inclined to think it might be a technique thing but I guess I won't know until it warms up and I try them again. I feather a lot on every stroke, like much more than 90*, often not taking the blade out of the water. I also feather while pushing to control exact amount of power into blade, high brace with oars and other weird things. Not something most people probably do so maybe not easy to replicate problem for others. I've used posi lockers for many years and never had a problem. They really expand the possibilities as far as merging kayak strokes like the ability to scull, boof and brace to rubber.
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Old 02-17-2019   #18
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 70
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Originally Posted by spider View Post
I see how that could happen with the new style.

Call Dan and have some full circle ones sent to you. I have several sets like this. The full capture is sweet. Tell him Neff sent you.
Hmm, maybe I'll try again. I mentioned that I thought they would be better as just a full circle without the oar rite cut out if that was an option and he didn't seem interested. Thanks for the heads up. I'm used to having to take the blade off anyway with the posi lockers.
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Old 02-17-2019   #19
 
Calgary, Alberta
Join Date: May 2009
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Originally Posted by idaho_h2o View Post
Hmm, maybe I'll try again. I mentioned that I thought they would be better as just a full circle without the oar rite cut out if that was an option and he didn't seem interested. Thanks for the heads up. I'm used to having to take the blade off anyway with the posi lockers.
You guys feel like having to take the blade off to change an oar isn't a big deal?

I haven't had to do it yet but I feel like if I had to, I'd want it to be quick and easy.

Or maybe for the emergency situation you just drop the new oar on the stainless oar lock to get through the rapid and then do a full replace?
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Old 02-17-2019   #20
 
East MT, WestMT, Both sides of the Yellowstone
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Originally Posted by cupido76 View Post
Thanks for confirming that.
May as well sand all the corners down while youíre at it just because. I know Dan makes them at his shop as of now. If they were mass produced Iíd imagine there would be a tumbling or blasting process to soften the corners. I still think they are the best and most of us can do some minor tweaks to dial them in for our specific needs. We reweld the post to U connection before sending them out. I recommend doing the same. Thatís the place Iíve seen them fail. In a fishing application they are fine but when your shit is upside down and getting hammered that weld joint takes a lot of stress. PM if youíre in my neighborhood and Iíll hook a buzzard up with a quick re weld.
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