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Old 08-12-2015   #1
 
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Lyons, Colorado
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Please don't make fun of me

I need rafting advice
I have an Aire 156R
NRS frame
10 inch oar towers and I sit on a tractor seat that rests on top of my dry box

What brand, model and length of Oar would you recommend
What blade type length etc etc
And where should the counter weights hold my oars and how do you choose the correct amount of counter weight

Please be gentle with me. I know you buzzards are all jack asses


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Old 08-12-2015   #2
 
Searching for water....., Idaho
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10ft oar and blade, the best you can afford. Sawyer and Cataract are popular.

Counterweights go up your a$$......
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Old 08-12-2015   #3
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinned View Post
10ft oar and blade, the best you can afford. Sawyer and Cataract are popular.



Counterweights go up your a$$......

I thought they go on the oar?
Oh, more buzzard sarcasm!
DAMNiT.

Still want counter weight advice
And oar blade advice
What width, shape etc

Last post sucked! Come on prove that guy wrong. There is helpful boating advice and a great community on buzz
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Old 08-12-2015   #4
 
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Salida, 81201
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I have Sawyer Polecat oars. I agree with 10' oars and that includes the blade. Sawyer Duramax blades rock. Sawyer oars have the counter weights inside the oar shaft. Just keep in mind that counter weighted oars will sink if popped out so invest in leashes. They come with about 3 1/2 pounds. Cataract oars are also great too.
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Old 08-12-2015   #5
 
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Up shites creek, Colorado
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Is a kayaker converting to big boater!?!

I've used the cataract counterbalanced oars for years on one of my boats. Whether they truly balance out will depend on where you put your fulcrum/see-saw (where the oarlock meets your oar). Since I have long ass arms, my oar right is placed quite high on the oar which means they're never really balanced. The main advantage of the cb's for me is the amount of energy I have to use pressing down while rowing. I didn't put cb's on my smaller boat, and you can tell a noticeable difference in the amount of pressure you have to use to get the oars see-sawed out of the water.

I have both Cataract's original blade and their magnum blade. The original floats, shows scratches easily, but haven't had a single shark bite(yet). The magnums are lighter and longer, scratches don't seem to be as visible, but have had 2 shark bites that meant replacement.
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Old 08-12-2015   #6
 
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I seem to spent way too much time on the river in the sun and I have not had good luck with cataract or sawyer. They tend to need more care (303 and such) and I start to get sun damage to the finish. I hate fiber slivers in my hand! Now don't get me wrong I love the way both work and feel. I just need more than 5 years out of a oar that I'm going to pay that much for. Now if your sticks are only out in the sun for 25 days a year you'll never have this issue. I just go with the Carlisle and replace when they break.

If you have tons of upper body strength go longer. say 10.5 or 11 you can always make them shorter if you need too.
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Old 08-12-2015   #7
 
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Belgrade, Montana
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I've run all the major oar manufacturers from wood to composite over the years. I like lightly counterbalanced sawyers mxf's at this point. I have a 15' boat 72" wide frame and run 10'ers, which work great. They have 1.5 lbs of lead in the handle but agree that balance will depend on set up.

I have had ALOT of problems with cataract shafts shedding glass and none with Sawyer. My stuff is on the water 40+ days a year now that I have kids and 100+ BC. I've seen both cat and sawyer finishes degrade but there is a difference - sawyer wraps their glass in cloth fabric so when the finish degrades it DOES NOT shed glass - that is speaking from first had experience. Between this and the removable wood handles that they use, I buy sawyers.

I've seen that cat makes a new removable handle with which you can interchange from counterweighted or not but I have no experience with them. I like the feel of the wood and I just made little lead ingots that I screw into the inside end of the wood handle - works great. At 1.5lbs of counterbalance my oars float flat - I chased one down the upper Gallatin this year for over an hour and it layed flat as pancake the whole time.

FWIW I do not want my oars balanced - much like yesimpirate, I just want most of the "hold up" weight removed. I still want the blades to fall in the water when I'm not holding them. My original pair of sawyers had 4 lbs of steel in the handle which was way to much for dynelite blades. It might have been appropriate for wood blades but not for the carbon ones. I would not personally buy pre counterbalanced oars. I'd figure out what works best by wrapping ankle weights or lead (like this: Cabela's Bullet Weights Hollow-Core Lead 5-lb. Roll : Cabela's) around the handle until you get the weight right. Then remove the handle and attach inside, reseal with silicone and be happy.

As for blades I'd get sawyer duramax or dynelites for sure. Carlisle's suck, plain and simple. I broke one or two a year before I switched and now I've been running the same d-lites for 8 years. I have duramax for spares but haven't spent much time using them. I do have several friends thought that have used them for years (also after switching from Carlisle) and have had not problems. They are almost the same price as carlise's and a no brainer for me if you're not going big. I have no opinion on cat's blades - I tried magnums once and one delamed right away. I assume it was a fluke but that's when I went to d-lites and have no reason to go back to plastic.
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Old 08-12-2015   #8
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"Last post sucked! Come on prove that guy wrong. There is helpful boating advice and a great community on buzz "


I don't think his post sucked. He did give you useful information. Counter balanced oars are for yuppies, work on your upper body strength if its too hard for you too push down on your sticks.
And yes the buzzards are jackasses, but you asked for advise.
Plus when the title of your post states to no make fun of you, expect to get made fun of!
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Old 08-12-2015   #9
 
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Up shites creek, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfresh View Post
. Counter balanced oars are for yuppies, work on your upper body strength if its too hard for you too push down on your sticks.
I guess I'm a yuppy then. But when the wife finally takes her turn rowing I don't want to hear about how the oars are too heavy, and her turn lasts less than 5 min.

And to beat you to the joke - I last less than 5 min too. Ba dump bump!
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Old 08-12-2015   #10
 
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Quote:
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Counter balanced oars are for yuppies, work on your upper body strength if its too hard for you too push down on your sticks.
Yes sir, macho man. I've heard that argument more times than I can count and it's completely BS. I'm out there to relax, not get a shoulder workout. Try a properly balanced oars someday - I bet you'll like it.

Quote:
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And yes the buzzards are jackasses, but you asked for advise.
Plus when the title of your post states to no make fun of you, expect to get made fun of!
True, very true.
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