Oar Tethers (yet again) - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 07-06-2016   #1
 
readNrun's Avatar
 
Niwot, Colorado
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Oar Tethers (yet again)

I know there are numerous threads on this topic and I've perused quite a few of them. I wanted to get some feedback as well as provide some on the different ways to tether oars.

In the beginning I used some standard oar tethers (metal ring & cam buckle) and they worked fine until they just aged out. I decided to try the Phantom ones with a metal fastex clip connected to a plastic fastex clip. This solution also attaches to the oar LOCK and not the frame. The two time failure of this system caused me to return to using the original style metal ring & cam buckle.

I'm considering moving to just a loop strap (no metal ring around oar shaft) and was wondering if anyone has moved to this from metal ring around the oar shaft version or vice versa and has found one better than the other.

I do know there are a lot of variations that people have proposed starting from no tethers at all the way to parachute cord, prussik cord loops etc.

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Old 07-06-2016   #2
 
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I use loop straps for tethers. Mostly because I am too cheap and lazy to order something else. They work fine for the most part. The loop will occasionally get too tight on the oar shaft and need to be adjusted. That happens about as often as the metal ring would catch on the end of my carlisle oar shaft, so I consider them to be equal in the "pain in the ass dept."

On the plus side, I can use the cam to release the oar from the frame if it is stuck or somehow hanging the boat up. I had to cut a prussic cord I was using as a tether once to get out of a hole that I was stuck in. The shaft got wedged between 2 rocks. Trying to use my knife to cut just the cord and not hit the raft or myself ,whilst the boat was bucking like a bronc, is not something I would like to repeat if I can avoid it.


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Old 07-06-2016   #3
 
Albuquerque, New Mexico
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I use thin cord tied in a bowline at both ends- one on the frame, and the other below the oar stop/oar sleeve.

I keep the tether as short as is practical so the oar can still be shipped and taken out of the oarlock if desired (e.g. for tight grouping of boats at a scout), but still will stay right next to to the side of the boat if it pops out of the oarlock.
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Old 07-06-2016   #4
 
San Jose, CA, California
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I like tom f's system. 8mm cord or .5in webbing.
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Old 07-06-2016   #5
 
Great Falls, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom f View Post
I use thin cord tied in a bowline at both ends- one on the frame, and the other below the oar stop/oar sleeve.

I keep the tether as short as is practical so the oar can still be shipped and taken out of the oarlock if desired (e.g. for tight grouping of boats at a scout), but still will stay right next to to the side of the boat if it pops out of the oarlock.
I'm having trouble picturing that. would you be willing to add some pics of that system?
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Old 07-06-2016   #6
 
Carbondale, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ob1coby View Post
I'm having trouble picturing that. would you be willing to add some pics of that system?
Second this, as I would also like to see a pic.
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Old 07-06-2016   #7
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Loop strap buckle end on the frame next to the tower and a 4' strap on the oar adjusted so the blade cant get out. The buckle prevents strap from tightening without tension. The buckle tightens the strap around the oar when it comes under tension. Tag end goes in loop buckle on frame. Easy to release and strong when you dont want it to.
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Old 07-06-2016   #8
 
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Glenwood Springs, Colorado
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Loop straps now for 15 years. I double encircle the non buckle end to the oars which keeps them from moving. I use a 3' loop.


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Old 07-06-2016   #9
 
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Boise, Idaho
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Same as TomF, I use prusik cord.

I also keep it as short as possible.

The end on the oar shaft has a permanent bowline.

The other end I tie to the oar tower at every launch. It only takes a few seconds. I tie a bowline with a slip knot finish. I make a pretty big bight for the slip knot so that it can't easily, accidentally come undone. Recently flipped and both slip knots held tight (and if they don't, I stuffed foam into the hollows of my oars so they don't sink).

I painted about 2" of the slip knot end of the line with some red rubberized paint (the kind used for tool grips). This allows me to instantly identify the end of the line so I can pull it, if ever necessary, for an immediate release of the oar. I used the rubberized paint so it would be more resilient and also so it would not soak into the rope. The paint has lasted at least 3 seasons so far.

I have yet to experience any problems with this setup.

I'll post a picture when I get a chance...
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Old 07-06-2016   #10
 
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Post Falls, Idaho
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Here's mine out of 10mm cord, the double fisherman's knot slides and stops at the figure eight. This allows for oar release without untying.

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