Oar positioning - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 03-27-2017   #1
 
Eureka, California
Paddling Since: 1978
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 78
Oar positioning

What's the usual way to decide how far back from the foot rest your oar towers should be? How high above the tubes is the usual?
I understand try it and see how you like it, but just wondering if there is a rule of thumb. I make my own frames and once made they're permanent. Have made 3, they've all worked out, and getting ready for a 4th for a smaller raft.
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Old 03-27-2017   #2
 
Denver, Colorado
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Posts: 108
If I remember right, I think I like mine on a smaller raft about lined up with my knees, maybe a touch forward of that, which would put them maybe a foot back from the foot bar? That way I have full range of motion from my seat, and the oars don't hit my knees when rowing forward or back. I think that height is dependent on how high you sit in the boat.
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Old 03-28-2017   #3
 
Eureka, California
Paddling Since: 1978
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 78
Thanks Mark. 15" on my 15.5 raft now. I had to do about 30 way hard pulls to not miss my take out on a 24k CFS run Saturday and it felt good for getting big bites. Maybe I'll split the difference and try 13.5.
My oars are sitting 6" above tubes. I was thinking maybe another half inch for being able to lift them above rocks etc.
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Old 03-28-2017   #4
 
Jenks, Oklahoma
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I see from the photo of the frame looks like a loop oar tower setup.

Even if you are making your own frame, I suggest you look at rowframe dot com and get Gary to make you a custom pair of towers. Gary made Scott's frame that you see in Mark's awesome video. Reason I suggest Gary's towers is they are infinitely adjustable for width, location on the frame and Gary will make the height tubes any length you want. Worth a look and call.
Raft frame, Cataraft, Cataraft frame, Rowframe, and Whitewater Equipment
above is a sample look on a raft
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Old 03-28-2017   #5
 
Eureka, California
Paddling Since: 1978
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 78
Looks like a lot of frame for the money.
Those oars look like they are 10" above the tubes.
I like my frame because it freaks folks out, can leave it sitting in dirt, less likely to scratch other surfaces, minimalist, costs about $280 to make.
Cheapest frame on most expensive boat. Leaves lots of room for passengers to bounce around in. My second one lasted till I wore that boat out at 25 years.
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Old 03-28-2017   #6
 
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Longview, Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denray View Post
Looks like a lot of frame for the money.
Those oars look like they are 10" above the tubes.
I like my frame because it freaks folks out, can leave it sitting in dirt, less likely to scratch other surfaces, minimalist, costs about $280 to make.
Cheapest frame on most expensive boat. Leaves lots of room for passengers to bounce around in. My second one lasted till I wore that boat out at 25 years.
How long are the side rails? Any disadvantage of it being that short?
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Old 03-29-2017   #7
 
Willi..., Willimina, OR
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oar towers position

Quote:
Originally Posted by Denray View Post
What's the usual way to decide how far back from the foot rest your oar towers should be? How high above the tubes is the usual?
I understand try it and see how you like it, but just wondering if there is a rule of thumb. I make my own frames and once made they're permanent. Have made 3, they've all worked out, and getting ready for a 4th for a smaller raft.
Generally 15" forward of the front edge of your seat. The trick is to swing the oar handle past your waste when leaning to the opposite side. This allows freedom in tight rowing positions. The foot bar kick position is a function of your leg length. Angling your kick backwards allows greater distance. Re: Tower Oarlock height. High enough to prevent hitting your knees on a typical stroke. If it's not comfortable, something may be wrong. Big diameter inflatables have steeper angles and generally less geometry issues. The trend now is to conserve fabric, make smaller diameter inflatable tubes resulting in the user being closer to the water surface where the bulk of the issues arise.
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Old 03-29-2017   #8
 
Eureka, California
Paddling Since: 1978
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 78
Only disadvantage in short frame is there is no D-ring there, so have to add one.
32" side rail.
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Old 03-29-2017   #9
 
Eureka, California
Paddling Since: 1978
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 78
Well, there is one problem I had with this schedule 80 PVC frame. My first one I had been doing some hard core 5's with and one day I came into a left turn against a wall. My boat got sideways against that wall and was sucked down like a piece of toast twice, out of site. My thol pins must have got stuck in some rocks and the frame busted. It leaves sharp edges when busted. A few minutes later a paddle boat of 4 ladies came up to it and did the same thing. One of them was down, with life jacket, for over a minute. Sheesh. Back in 83 or so.
I run a piece of muffler pipe within the tube under the seat because the PVC is too weak there.
Seems like the positioning I've been using is pretty good. I'm going to go for 1/2" further ahead and 1/4 on the rise.
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