Oar counterbalance weights - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 09-15-2018   #1
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
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Oar counterbalance weights

I don't know if this is a stupid question or not since I am new to this but how can you add counterbalance weights to your oars without spending the $90 NRS is asking for counterbalance sleeves. Is there some kind of weight clamp out there that will you can secure around the oar? There must be something. If you can explain it to me like you are talking to somebody who knows nothing that would be appreciated...

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Old 09-16-2018   #2
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Wheat Ridge, Colorado
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Duct taping sand filled ankle weights is a tried and true solution. We recommend using duct tape and then putting electrical tape on top since it has better UV resistance properties.

In a pinch, you could also duct tape a couple of beer cans to each oar
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Old 09-16-2018   #3
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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Duct tape and ankle weights isn't pretty, but it's also flexible.

Sawyer and Cataract can't fine-tune the weight for customers, so they go heavy....they're like 4# for each oar. Now you're pushing that much weight with each stroke.

I think a lot of people would benefit from 1-2#. You often need a little counterweight, not a LOT! Also remember you don't need the oar perfectly balanced in the oarlock. When you put your hands on the grips, half the weight of your arm is now "hanging" on the oar (the other half is hanging from your shoulder). If the oar is perfectly balanced, you actually have to pull "up" on the handle to offset the weight of your arm to get the blade in the water.

From Quora.com: "On average, an arm weighs about ~5.3% of your total body weight, depending on your gender, among other factors. A leg is about 17.5%. This means for a 150lb average human being, an arm weighs ~8lb and a leg weighs ~26lb."

I just drew a quickie free-body diagram...I'll spare you the geeky part, but in general, the shaft inside the oarlock nearly balances the shaft outside the oarlock.

Assuming (for easy math) a 10' oar with 40" inside the locks and 80" outside. Blade is 40" (it isn't) and shaft outside the locks is 40". It's the blade that is hanging out there unbalanced by anything but the weight of your arm or the counterweight.

If the blade weighs 3# and its center is 60" from the lock, you have 180 in-lbs to be balanced by your hand/handle. 180/40" = 4.5# at the handle. Say half your arm is 3.5-4#...then you only need 1-1.5# of extra weight to balance the system.

If you can shave a pound off the blade, you're saving 1.5-2# up at the handle....and you don't need a counterweight....so try some Sawyer dynelites or Edge blades.

Sawyer squaretops really aren't that massive; they maybe add 0.5# to the oar inside the lock...but when combined with lightweight blades and tapered shafts, the difference in the full system is quite noticeable.
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Old 09-16-2018   #4
 
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C. Springs, Colorado
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In a thread.....long long ago......A guy posted this link. It might be what your looking for.

https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/boat-shaft-zincs
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Old 09-17-2018   #5
 
Missoula, Montana
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I've had luck counterbalancing Carlisles by pulling the inner plug and pouring 2.5 lbs of ankle weight sand/iron filings into the handles, and then covering with a good amount of construction adhesive. Sawyers can be done similarly if you pull the handles and drill a hole in them for a plug of steel. Cataracts I don't know about but I have read that you can heat them near the end and use a long stick to hammer the handles out, but you'll likely need to buy new handles.
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Old 09-17-2018   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seantana View Post
I've had luck counterbalancing Carlisles by pulling the inner plug and pouring 2.5 lbs of ankle weight sand/iron filings into the handles, and then covering with a good amount of construction adhesive. Sawyers can be done similarly if you pull the handles and drill a hole in them for a plug of steel. Cataracts I don't know about but I have read that you can heat them near the end and use a long stick to hammer the handles out, but you'll likely need to buy new handles.

Cataract handles are epoxied in. Heat should break the bonds of an epoxy joint...but we found that a heavy weight did a lot more than heat or no heat.

Pull the foam plug with a coat hanger. Use a big cylindrical bar 1.5" diameter...1.5-2' long and drop it down the handle like a slide hammer and wail that handle out. 1 5/8" bar will fit, but it acts like a piston and compressed air below it softens the blow.
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