Duct tape and ankle weights isn't pretty, but it's also flexible.
Sawyer and Cataract can't fine-tune the weight for customers, so they go heavy....they're like 4# for each oar. Now you're pushing that much weight with each stroke.
I think a lot of people would benefit from 1-2#. You often need a little counterweight, not a LOT! Also remember you don't need the oar perfectly balanced in the oarlock. When you put your hands on the grips, half the weight of your arm is now "hanging" on the oar (the other half is hanging from your shoulder). If the oar is perfectly balanced, you actually have to pull "up" on the handle to offset the weight of your arm to get the blade in the water.
From Quora.com: "On average, an arm weighs about ~5.3% of your total body weight, depending on your gender, among other factors. A leg is about 17.5%. This means for a 150lb average human being, an arm weighs ~8lb and a leg weighs ~26lb."
I just drew a quickie free-body diagram...I'll spare you the geeky part, but in general, the shaft inside the oarlock nearly balances the shaft outside the oarlock.
Assuming (for easy math) a 10' oar with 40" inside the locks and 80" outside. Blade is 40" (it isn't) and shaft outside the locks is 40". It's the blade that is hanging out there unbalanced by anything but the weight of your arm or the counterweight.
If the blade weighs 3# and its center is 60" from the lock, you have 180 in-lbs to be balanced by your hand/handle. 180/40" = 4.5# at the handle. Say half your arm is 3.5-4#...then you only need 1-1.5# of extra weight to balance the system.
If you can shave a pound off the blade, you're saving 1.5-2# up at the handle....and you don't need a counterweight....so try some Sawyer dynelites or Edge blades.
Sawyer squaretops really aren't that massive; they maybe add 0.5# to the oar inside the lock...but when combined with lightweight blades and tapered shafts, the difference in the full system is quite noticeable.