Oar Blade failure Mechanism - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 04-10-2015   #1
 
SpeyCatr's Avatar
 
Coquitlam, BC, Canada
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Oar Blade failure Mechanism

I'm interested in what you have to say about the different blades out there and their specific failure mechanisms. Ive heard some blades out there "shark bite" which at least means the blade is still useable to get you out of a jam however if they shark bite too easily then you end up with a bunch of shark bitten blades after a while. I'm leaning towards either the Carlisle or Saywer Duramax blades but have an open mind.

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Old 04-10-2015   #2
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and you will get lots of opinions ! I like my Dynalites.
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Old 04-10-2015   #3
 
seattle, Washington
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Never really cared about what blade I'm using. Pro tip. I swap bent or cracked ones out from other boaters when they run their shuttle. Trading gear is good way to figure out what you like without paying for fancy new stuff.
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Old 04-10-2015   #4
 
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Bucketboater is doing it right. But I only swap for Dynalites also. Never had an issue with them doing anything other than work perfectly.


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Old 04-10-2015   #5
 
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Depends on your use, where you row, and of course budget. Personally, I would take the duramax over the Carlisle of your choices. Moving up a step the Sawyer wood blades are awesome. super tough. I have duramax’s, carlisles, and the ash pro-v’s on different oars I have. They dynalite’s I’ve rowed a few hundred miles but never sprung for a set myself. Nice. I’ve bent more carlisles than any others, not super heavy duty, you get what you pay for. Can’t remember which one of the cataracts everybody says break really easily.

Are you fishing, whitewater, shallow rivers, etc.?? you do want/like a buoyant blade? They’ll all get you where you want to go. If you are fishing some enter and exit the water more softly (for lack of a better term) than others. I think the wood blades “feel” the best, but I don’t mind the duramax’s at all.


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Old 04-10-2015   #6
 
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Bend, Oregon
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I used standard Carlisels for years and never broke one, although they did get little piraña bites on the bottom from rocks. When I got a used set of Cataract shafts as upgrades they came with the Magnum blades on them. They are much thicker than Carlisles but not as dense so they actually have some buoyancy. I broke one of the magnum blades above Velvet on a high water middle fork trip a couple of years ago, and it was a total snap of the blade material, which seemed to have gotten brittle with age. The fibers in it at least held it somewhat together at around a 45 degree angle, so I was able to spin it over so I could use it as a cup shape until getting someplace better to swap it out. That said, it was at least 10 years old and had seen a lot of use so I didn't hesitate to buy a new pair of magnums when I got home. They seem like a pretty good value to me, but they are prone to snapping more than bending since there isn't an aluminum core in them like the Carlisles.
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Old 04-11-2015   #7
 
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Boise, Idaho
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I bought a set of Cataract Magnums three years ago. They are holding up quite well and I do like the buoyancy of the blades. At under $80 per blade I cant fuss as yet.
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Old 04-12-2015   #8
 
East MT, WestMT, Both sides of the Yellowstone
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Oar rites will surely snap blades. Have not busted a magnum yet but did wreck some carlisles. Hoping to demo some pro lok edge oars and blades at madness this may. Shafts are built by north fork composites (Gary loomis design) and weight less than 2#s. Spend the extra coin for magnum blades, you'll be happy. Dynalites are nice too.
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Old 04-12-2015   #9
 
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Park City, Utah
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I use 8" Carlisle outfitter blades and I like them for their value and decent durability. Sometimes I hit rocks and I am amazed they are in one piece, occasionally I will get a shark bit seemingly from nothing. I have twisted some blades, so now I put a rivet in the shaft, just below where it inserts into the oar.


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Old 04-13-2015   #10
 
Boise, Idaho
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I use heavy sawyer plastic blades exclusively. Have whacked many rocks with them and have yet to have one totally fail. That being said all my sawyer blades have little bites taken out of them. They just dont seem to snap or explode like carlisle or cataract. I would never use wood or carbon unless there was zero chance of hitting a rock. I like the sawyer screw system. Not a fan of spring buttons
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