Longevity of powder coating - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 09-13-2018   #1
 
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Longevity of powder coating

So - how long should it last? PC'd both dry box and capn box and they both are flaking and have worn on the corners. Especially at contact points with the raft. I know that basically sand between the raft and the coating is essentially sand blasting the coating but I was expecting a bit more than two seasons out of it.

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Old 09-13-2018   #2
 
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For river gear, I'd expect 6-10 years with proper prep, application, and quality powder. Just like liquid coatings, prep is everything. There's also a large range of powder quality, from cheap junk to automotive paint grade.

The latest generation of NRS cataraft yokes are powdered, mine look new after a season, and half of my cooler bay uses one of them.
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Old 09-13-2018   #3
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BGillespie View Post
For river gear, I'd expect 6-10 years with proper prep, application, and quality powder. Just like liquid coatings, prep is everything. There's also a large range of powder quality, from cheap junk to automotive paint grade.

The latest generation of NRS cataraft yokes are powdered, mine look new after a season, and half of my cooler bay uses one of them.
So - it looks like I had some bad prep or the powder coating was done with less than ideal quality. I've got full corners without any paint and flaking happening on the sides. I went to a reputable company that does lots of industrial coating. Not sure what happened. Anyone have a good experience with a company along the Front Range (Longmont/Boulder more precisely)?
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Old 09-13-2018   #4
 
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I'm having good luck with 2- or 3-part catalyzed paints.

Powder is really hard to touch up.
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Old 09-13-2018   #5
 
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Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
I'm having good luck with 2- or 3-part catalyzed paints.

Powder is really hard to touch up.
I assume I would still have to take it down to bare metal to apply a catalyzed paint? What kind of longevity are you getting out of it?
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Old 09-13-2018   #6
 
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I did my frame with POR-15 primer (1-part catalyzed urethane), HardNose paint (2-part), and Glisten PC clear (2-part). I'm on year 5. It has rubbed down to the primer at the frame corners...I assume due to sand. No bad abrasions from years and years of straps sliding. A couple of rock chips.


Originally painted with a brush in 2013:
https://www.mountainbuzz.com/forums/...tml#post330040


Repair will be just a scuff sand with 80-grit sandpaper and another layer of paint and another layer of clear. To recoat, I plan to use a $20 Harbor Freight sprayer. Figure ~$150 in materials for the POR brand primer/paint/clear, but I have enough left from last time to recoat this time. Not bad for 5-6 years of use.


Toughest thing about your boxes is that they are aluminum. It's notoriously difficult to prime. I understand that a 2-part epoxy primer is the best. I plan to paint my aluminum drybox this winter...stay tuned...
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Old 09-13-2018   #7
 
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Most quality liquid coatings will have a pdf on paintdocs with prep, primer, and application instructions for wood, ferrous, and non-ferrous substrates.

If you're going with a multi part liquid, which I would suggest for both primer and color/clear liquid coatings on non-ferrous substrates, you may be shocked at material cost, especially the reducers and hardeners. These products aren't designed for the diy'er and the smallest quantities can be expensive and far more than you will use to paint raft frames. As you go up the price scale for liquid coatings, the hardeners and reducers become specific to the applied product, so it's even worse.

For the diy'er with a little coatings experience, multi-part multi-stage liquid is a great option. Considering price, value, and PITA factor, powder would be my suggestion, as long as the applicator has experience with non-ferrous and uses good quality products.

FWIW, some powders are easy to touch up with liquid, some are not. We routinely use a satin black cardinal powder that is cake to touch up with rustoleum satin black spray cans from home depot, but the wheels on my jeep are coated with a 3 stage prismatic powder that would be impossible to touch up.

I'm in SLC and use Steel Coatings, no clue on Colorado.

YMMV.
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Old 09-13-2018   #8
 
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Just my experience with power coating. Had the rocket box groover, inside and out, powder coated professionally nearly 20 years ago. The inside is still in great shape. The outside is showing some rust on the corners, handles, and seams due to use and sandy abrasion. I'm generally a DIY guy (I work at Home Depot) but I suggest you have a pro do it.
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Old 09-13-2018   #9
 
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So - I did have a pro do it. That's my issue. They're saying that it would be expected that abrasion against the raft with some sand over ~30 days of use would cause the paint to wear/flake. I'm dubious. Bottom line I need to get it fixed and I'm not getting really great answers from the company that did the original PC.
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Old 09-13-2018   #10
 
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Got pics?
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