Joining 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch pipe - Mountain Buzz
 

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Old 2 Days Ago   #1
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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Joining 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch pipe

O.D. of Sch 40 1.25" (IPS) is 1.660 inches; I.D. of 1.5" pipe is 1.610 inches.
I need to slip the inch and a quarter into the inch and a half; should I just sand (belt sander or by hand)? It's only .05 of an inch (five hundredths) and I only need to do a couple of inches on each piece (four total) - enough to slide the larger over the smaller and pin it for frame cross members... Advice?

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Old 2 Days Ago   #2
 
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What is your goal here? I need a little more info to understand what you are trying to do. Sounds like you are working with carbon steel? Are you going to weld them together or is this going to be a slip joint of some sort.

Easy solution is to get some tubing. The difference between pipe and tubing is I.D to O.D. Pipe is measured in I.D and tubing is in O.D so a piece of 1.5" pipe will fit over a piece of 1.5" tubing.

Yes you can sand it some way but it will be harder than you think to keep it smooth and truly round so if it is a slip join that might cause some ware issues. If you are going to weld it probably does not matter as long as you can get the joint together.

If you are going to try and reduce the size I would use a lathe, if you know someone with one, I assume you don't.You could also figure our a way to chuck it into a drill or drill press and then use a belt sander while it is spinning. That way you will get a consistant reduction of size and not end of the a "faceted" surface if you try and do it by hand.

Hope that helps, if you have drawings or pics that would help as well.

Josh.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #3
 
Arnold, California
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Keep in mind that .05 is a significant percentage of the wall thickness. If you dont have much loading its probably not an issue but it would be the weak spot.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #4
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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"Standard" Sch 40 T6 6061 alu pipe in both thicknesses - the 1.25 is what NRS uses to build frames, 1.5 is what DRE uses. The wall thickness is close to .125" (1/8") so I'm not all that worried about losing .05 overall, and yes, likely will be welded when joined but for first trip will just pin it. Will be 2 of 5 cross members on a frame so not worried about strength... Lathe is obvious answer but don't have access to one at the frame's location, think I'm just going to try hand sanding and see how long it takes to get one piece to fit. Belt sander without creating obvious facets would be next resort...
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Old 2 Days Ago   #5
 
Durango, Colorado
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I'm not sure how they work on aluminum but I'd think an expander similar to these would let you swedge the bigger like enough to get the smaller one inside it.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #6
 
Arnold, California
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Gonna take a lot of hand sanding
to knock off that much metal.
You could use a section of sch 10 for the 1.5 pipe. You could use a rubber gasket to fill the gap that is left.
You do have me curious why 2 of your cross bars need to be smaller diameter. Ive thought it would be nice to have a Holaender fitting to go from 1.5 to 1.25 dia.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #7
 
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Keep in mind pipe in nominal and tolerance vary between manufacturers and even from one run to the next...your welded tube have the flashing removed? Otherwise you'll need to figure for the weld seam. I also suggest 1.5" sch 10...think thickness is .109 on that and would give you a nice fit.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #8
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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How long are the pieces you are joining and can they be transported from where you are storing them? If they're short enough to fit in a small engine lathe and can be transported, my friends and I like beer. If not, I have a tubing sander.

For the record, aluminum pipe is rarely advertised dimensions and varies between manufacturers. YMMV.
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Old 2 Days Ago   #9
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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My frame is steel, but pinned together. The sleeves and rails are NOT a close fit. Consider that when you pull the frame to your D-rings with straps, and top off the boat, all those pin connections get super tight...there's no rattling.


Also remember that things do move and what may be a precision fit in your shop may not align when you go to put it together at a remote airstrip after you've invested significant vacation time and logistics money to get there.


Keep it Simple, Stupid!



Quote:
Originally Posted by BGillespie View Post
How long are the pieces you are joining and can they be transported from where you are storing them? If they're short enough to fit in a small engine lathe and can be transported, my friends and I like beer. If not, I have a tubing sander.

^^^^
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Old 2 Days Ago   #10
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Sleeve Adapter

Another possible solution would be to purchase a 1.5" Hollaender type fitting and then order from Online Metals a cut to length sleeve in 1.5" schedule 40 pipe that has a wall thickness of .10 instead of .125. That would give you an inside diameter of 1.7" once the sleeve is inserted into the fitting. I have ordered four sleeves like this to try and connect NRS drop rails to a 1.5" DRE frame. I plan to to drill the fitting and pipe and clip pin it.
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