Is this '84 Avon worth trying to save? - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 10-01-2018   #1
 
Kingsport, TN, Tennessee
Paddling Since: 2014
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 34
Is this '84 Avon worth trying to save?

Hey Gang,
I recently picked up an '84 Avon Pro 16' in a bundle of old gear. The rubber itself looks to be in decent shape and doesn't appear to have been abused. However, while it was rolled up, some rats got to it and put a good hole in one of the chambers and both thwarts. Also, one of the valves is leaking around the outside of the valve (in the "cup"). The two tubes that are "holding air" on the boat currently did go soft over night.
I was planning to cut out the thwarts and build this with a solid floor style fishing frame so I have some spare parts to work with. My goal, however, is to not have to top the boat off over an 8 hour trip and if you guys don't think that is reasonable I may need to look else where before starting the project.

I appreciate any weigh-in or tips on how to get these repairs done!
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Old 10-01-2018   #2
 
caverdan's Avatar
 
C. Springs, Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,876
I'd fix it back up. You have all the patch material needed in the thorts and tunnels. Do an inside and outside patch and you'll be good to go. That being said....it isn't a self bailer.....so it isn't worth that much to begin with.
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Old 10-01-2018   #3
 
Kingsport, TN, Tennessee
Paddling Since: 2014
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 34
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Originally Posted by caverdan View Post
I'd fix it back up. You have all the patch material needed in the thorts and tunnels. Do an inside and outside patch and you'll be good to go. That being said....it isn't a self bailer.....so it isn't worth that much to begin with.
Thanks! I haven't done any patching myself yet and was curious how your felt about finding/fixing those really slow leaks. Is that something done pretty often? I hear of people with older boats that require topping off mid day and I'm not sure I would want to have to do that when fishing with folks. I am wondering why they haven't found/fixed those leaks yet or if they aren't actually identifiable perhaps?
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Old 10-01-2018   #4
 
caverdan's Avatar
 
C. Springs, Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2004
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You should be able to find any and all leaks with a bucket of soapy water. Boats do go soft overnight with the temperature changes. A lot of older boats develop pin hole leaks that are hard to cure with simple patching. Good luck. Go to the NRS website and get their clifton 8488 glue and accelerator and take your time with the prep. It's all about the prep. Follow their instructions and your boat will hold air again.

That boat does have some life left in it. The boat in my avatar is a mid 70's 16' Pro with a Tracy Harmon self bailer floor. It's still my go to boat for Deso trips.
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Old 10-01-2018   #5
 
Kingsport, TN, Tennessee
Paddling Since: 2014
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by caverdan View Post
You should be able to find any and all leaks with a bucket of soapy water. Boats do go soft overnight with the temperature changes. A lot of older boats develop pin hole leaks that are hard to cure with simple patching. Good luck. Go to the NRS website and get their clifton 8488 glue and accelerator and take your time with the prep. It's all about the prep. Follow their instructions and your boat will hold air again.

That boat does have some life left in it. The boat in my avatar is a mid 70's 16' Pro with a Tracy Harmon self bailer floor. It's still my go to boat for Deso trips.
Any advice on dealing with the leaking valve cup assembly? I'm having trouble visualizing how to do both an internal and external patch on that one. I expect I can just cut around the cup and take a cup with some excess material around it from a thwart and glue it just externally or should something that large really be done inside AND out?
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Old 10-01-2018   #6
 
St. George, Utah
Paddling Since: 1974
Join Date: May 2011
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You will need to replace the leaking valve boot with a new one. Those boots dry out and crack so it would be better to replace all of them. You can remove the old boot by cutting it out and replacing it with a new one. NRS has the parts.
You will need to patch over the boots with new material after you install them and you should rebuild the B-7 valves as well while you have them out. It's also possible to replace them with C-7 valves by removing the boot and adding a doughnut of material to hold the new valve. Pretty big job but I have done it. Just take your time and do good prep as the other poster said.
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Old 10-01-2018   #7
 
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C. Springs, Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2004
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I'm dyslexic this morning. The glue is Clifton 4844. I'd cut the old boot out and put a Leafield C7 valve assembly back it it's place. You'll have to do both an inside and outside patch to seal the boot hole. You'll need to put extra fabric around the valve hole on both sides of the new valve for it to seat on.

Not really something I can explain well myself, but I wish I lived closer to you to show you how it's done. Remember......boats are just glue and fabric. If you have a hole, you must do both inside and outside patches or the outside patch will blow off. Overlap everything by at least an inch.

Last resort. Have Zack and raftfix give you a quote or find someone in your area to help you out.
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Old 10-01-2018   #8
 
Kingsport, TN, Tennessee
Paddling Since: 2014
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by caverdan View Post
I'm dyslexic this morning. The glue is Clifton 4844. I'd cut the old boot out and put a Leafield C7 valve assembly back it it's place. You'll have to do both an inside and outside patch to seal the boot hole. You'll need to put extra fabric around the valve hole on both sides of the new valve for it to seat on.

Not really something I can explain well myself, but I wish I lived closer to you to show you how it's done. Remember......boats are just glue and fabric. If you have a hole, you must do both inside and outside patches or the outside patch will blow off. Overlap everything by at least an inch.

Last resort. Have Zack and raftfix give you a quote or find someone in your area to help you out.
I definitely think I will give this a shot myself. I am tempted to just replace all (4) valves.
Another question...Could I use the excess material from the thwarts for the patches and to make rub guards for a solid floor frame or do you suggest some other material?
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Old 10-01-2018   #9
 
St. George, Utah
Paddling Since: 1974
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 241
You won't find a better material anywhere than what you have in the Avon.
As pointed out in the other post I should have added that you need to do both inside and outside patch if you don't use new boots. That is how I did mine and it works fine. It is a big job.It's hard to do a proper prep on the inside of the tube. I see you are in Tennessee. I would give Gary Harper at rivergear.com a call and see if he has any info that will help you. He also has all the parts you will need.
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Old 10-01-2018   #10
 
Boulder, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 90
Do the work yourself, put a couple hundred into materials, and I assure you that the lessons learned with pay off if shit hits the fan on a multi-day. I brought one of these old Avons back from the brink several years ago and sold it for $300 more than I put into it. To be honest it worked out to about $5/hour for my time but it was a game-changer in my compentency.
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