How to deal with outboard on self bailer? - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 02-21-2017   #1
 
montrose, Colorado
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How to deal with outboard on self bailer?

I've a 14 ft Maravia with laced in floor & center oarframe. Lot of rocker fore and aft. Have a tube-mounted strap-on transom and 75 lb outboard 15 hp motor. The issues: heavy motor and driver sink the stern, making water flow in through laces and sinking it more...and worse when power applied. Happens also with lighter motors down to 4 hp. Also concerned about stressing seams. What is the answer? Thanks for helping.

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Old 02-21-2017   #2
 
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C. Springs, Colorado
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The answer is a smaller motor. Sell the 15hp and get something smaller.
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Old 02-21-2017   #3
 
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buckeye, Arizona
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i have wondered if a piece of urethane cut to size that is draped under and then secured at the front and sides of the boat would keep water out of the laces... just a thought
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Old 02-21-2017   #4
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Tabernash, Colorado
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A 15 horse is too much for a 14', that size motor is more compatible with an 18' raft, or could be ok on a 16'. I would not go more than 10 hp for that size boat, you would be fine with less.
What happens to the angle of the motor when you apply throttle? Is the foot of the motor kind of sucking down and forward? Since you are having problems with a smaller motor ( 4 hp is not to big at all) I am wondering if the angle is part of the problem, especially with a strapon mount, the the motor could be rotating down, instead of really pushing the boat forward like it should. That would explain some of the water being pulled into your stern.

You may be able to fix this by securing a block in between the motor and the hull, or better yet, a transom that bolts to the frame. Is the rocker of the stern flexing down significantly?

Short answer is probly better transom, and smaller motor.
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Old 02-21-2017   #5
 
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Grants Pass, Oregon
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Try the NRS motor mount that attaches to the frame with a lighter motor.

It seems like doing that puts way less pressure on that rear tube. The frame mount transfers it to the frame. Of course spending nearly $400 bucks on something that you hope will work is a bummer if it doesn't.
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Old 02-22-2017   #6
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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Jackass. (Literally, not you...) ..and not more than 5 hp LONG SHAFT.
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Old 02-22-2017   #7
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Tabernash, Colorado
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Ya, a Jackass would be SWEET.
I have been using a friends NRS motor mount, and it is nice.
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Old 02-22-2017   #8
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My friend Hank unlaced a couple feet of floor in the stern of his boat and, folded the floor over, inflated the floor. And mounted the engine inside the boat. It worked quite well.
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Old 02-22-2017   #9
 
Missoula, Montana
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I agree that the issue is likely the strapon transom, all the weight of the motor and driver is sitting on the very end of your tube, with nothing to distribute that weight forward. Having a frame connection changes the pivot point of the boat and spreads the load to the frame. Since the whole front of the boat will have to come up to allow the stern to drop, you end up with a lot less vertical flex. The new NRS saxophone motor mount performed great for me, it connects to the frame but also levers against the back tube, which means even less deflection on the stern.
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Old 02-22-2017   #10
 
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I have seen some rafts on the lower snake where they have built a motor mount that looks like an extension of the rear crossbar of the frame sticking out a foot from the side of the raft, and the motor mounted on that, but they were 4 or 5 HP motors, not 15. and they only used it for motoring in flatwater where quick moves were not needed. looked fine for motoring out below the confluence with the salmon, but not sure how fun it would be to have to actually steer a lot with that set up. best setup I saw with this was two boats with motors on opposite sides, so one just throttles down to make course corrections.
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