Folding Oar Tower Designs - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 07-15-2018   #1
 
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Folding Oar Tower Designs

I'm finishing up my latest welded steel frame. It is a double rail with hooped oar towers. What have people designed for folding oar towers?

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Old 07-15-2018   #2
 
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The only time I've heard of folding oar towers they weren't intentional...
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Old 07-15-2018   #3
 
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What do you use for your frames? I am looking into doing one myself and electrical conduit is what I was looking at until I did some research and it does not seem that EMT is easy to weld and does not turn out well. Did you bend you tubes or do something else? I would love to see picks.

Sorry don't have much in the way of folding oar towers, honestly I have never thought of that but I will and see if I can come up with something.

Thanks.
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Old 07-15-2018   #4
 
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EMT welds just fine, just don't breath the fumes from the galvanization. Use a respirator with it or make sure the wind is blowing!. Bend it with a hand bender or find a friend with an electric bender You can get a tighter bend with a regular tubing bender. It is tough to fish electrical wire if you are over 360 degrees in a run or tight corners so EMT benders have a large radius.

For folding oar towers. I've thought about using a design like class IV frames use, using fence top rail (over 1" EMT frame)

I used bolt on oar towers mounted to plates on a double rail frame. I welded the nuts to the bottom of the plate so I can use a driver to get them on/off quickly. If I remember right I just hit them with the TIG in a couple spots and didn't use any filler to hold them in place. I don't take them off often though.
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Old 07-16-2018   #5
 
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Originally Posted by jspoon14 View Post
What do you use for your frames? I am looking into doing one myself and electrical conduit is what I was looking at until I did some research and it does not seem that EMT is easy to weld and does not turn out well. Did you bend you tubes or do something else? I would love to see picks.

Sorry don't have much in the way of folding oar towers, honestly I have never thought of that but I will and see if I can come up with something.

Thanks.
1.25" EMT conduit. OD is approximately 1 5/8" OD.

Very easy to weld with a MIG welder. If you can weld well, it's easy to weld. If you can't weld well, don't try it, it's thin and burns through easily.


This is my 4th EMT frame. First one was worked hard for 7 years, then I sold it with the boat it was on; it's probably still out there. The other 3 are still in my fleet. The other two are a 2-bay and a stern rowing frame.


18"-18"-24"-18". The foot bar can be flipped to the middle spot so I can run it with either 1 bay in front and 2 behind/under the rower, or 2 in front/1 behind. The towers have 3 sockets 2.5" apart so I have some movement in oarlock position. The foot bar folds, but the oar towers do not. In 7 years, I have only had one situation I wanted to fold them, and I only ended up pulling the oarlocks.


Towers are not folding, but are semi-adjustable.



Unlucky's suggestion to use a plate between the double rails is also a good one.



Alternate idea:
Use NRS oar towers. Not sure if the ubolt would crush the EMT or not. Could possibly sleeve the EMT with a dowel or a smaller diameter top rail where you planned to hang an NRS oar tower.
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Old 07-16-2018   #6
 
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EMT welds just fine, just don't breath the fumes from the galvanization. Use a respirator with it or make sure the wind is blowing!. Bend it with a hand bender or find a friend with an electric bender You can get a tighter bend with a regular tubing bender. It is tough to fish electrical wire if you are over 360 degrees in a run or tight corners so EMT benders have a large radius.

For folding oar towers. I've thought about using a design like class IV frames use, using fence top rail (over 1" EMT frame)

I used bolt on oar towers mounted to plates on a double rail frame. I welded the nuts to the bottom of the plate so I can use a driver to get them on/off quickly. If I remember right I just hit them with the TIG in a couple spots and didn't use any filler to hold them in place. I don't take them off often though.
Thanks that is great to hear, i am going to go buy some and start playing around. Did you paint it afterwords?
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Old 07-16-2018   #7
 
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Thanks that is great to hear, i am going to go buy some and start playing around. Did you paint it afterwords?
From the other current thread (bedliner):
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Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
I like POR-15 primer, POR HardNose Paint, and GlistenPC clearcoat. I did my frame 6 or 7 years ago, and it's held up really well. It does need a recoat where the frame rubbed the tubes over time (and road dust didn't help). There are two dings where either a rock or a drybox chipped the paint, but otherwise, it is all super glossy and straps slide great on it. It also has barely marked the boat--really only in the corners with the aforementioned dust/rubbing.

If your base metal was galvanized, do a quick wipe with muriatic (swimming pool) acid. It will etch the galvanized, cut the shine, and give paint a much better surface area to bond to.
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POR-15 primer, yellow HardNose paint, and gold pearl mixed into the clearcoat.

This was brushed on.

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Old 07-16-2018   #8
 
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1.25" EMT conduit. OD is approximately 1 5/8" OD.

Very easy to weld with a MIG welder. If you can weld well, it's easy to weld. If you can't weld well, don't try it, it's thin and burns through easily.


This is my 4th EMT frame. First one was worked hard for 7 years, then I sold it with the boat it was on; it's probably still out there. The other 3 are still in my fleet. The other two are a 2-bay and a stern rowing frame.


18"-18"-24"-18". The foot bar can be flipped to the middle spot so I can run it with either 1 bay in front and 2 behind/under the rower, or 2 in front/1 behind. The towers have 3 sockets 2.5" apart so I have some movement in oarlock position. The foot bar folds, but the oar towers do not. In 7 years, I have only had one situation I wanted to fold them, and I only ended up pulling the oarlocks.


Towers are not folding, but are semi-adjustable.



Unlucky's suggestion to use a plate between the double rails is also a good one.



Alternate idea:
Use NRS oar towers. Not sure if the ubolt would crush the EMT or not. Could possibly sleeve the EMT with a dowel or a smaller diameter top rail where you planned to hang an NRS oar tower.


That looks awesome! Nice work, it looks like it is a break down frame. What did you do to for the bolted connections? Also what did you do for the oar lock pin, i assume just put in a nipple of smaller EMT?

Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-16-2018   #9
 
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Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
From the other current thread (bedliner):
That paint job was brushed on? Wow that look amazing, where can you get the paint you used. I have done some painting over the years but have never gotten in to automotive finishes. It would be so nice to not have aluminum "rubs" all over my boats. Might have to replace my frame for my 14'er as well.
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Old 07-16-2018   #10
 
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Originally Posted by jspoon14 View Post
That looks awesome! Nice work, it looks like it is a break down frame. What did you do to for the bolted connections? Also what did you do for the oar lock pin, i assume just put in a nipple of smaller EMT?
Pins: just used the PTO pins from Harbor Freight.
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-pie...ent-67534.html




If you use conduit, also look at chain link rail. Chain link rail and conduit come in complimentary sizes. I used chain link top rail which fits close but not tight inside 1.25" EMT. I just went to the local fence supplier and asked if I could have a few 8" scraps out of their scrap bin. It is too short for them to use and will all get recycled. All my inside sleeves are this slightly smaller top rail.

Oar lock sockets are 1/2" SCH40 steel pipe. It is a ~0.6 diameter, so you have to ream/drill it out to 0.625" to fit a 5/8" oarlock pin. Alternately you could use 3/4" SCH40, and then use a delrin or nylon bushing if you didn't want metal on metal. I just use a bit of wax or Dr. Bronners' to keep it from squeaking.
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