Flip seat opinions - Page 4 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #31
 
Salida, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1983
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 426
Quote:
Originally Posted by wharf-rat View Post
Sorry If my question stirred up some stuff.

Is not you, this has happened multiple times, when a discussion gets interesting, or in depth, someone chimes in with opinions claiming to be backed with some inane justification rhetoric, and then the personal attacks start. This is the 5th or 6th time in the last couple of months this has happened. It's always the same troll, no matter what the subject. Seats, rigging, bushings, tents on boats, we're all wrong if we don't do it his way, or throw everything away and buy it all from DRE cause they make the only superior gear out there and it's the only gear to buy.

EM summed it up well, with only one word.

Signs and symptoms of narcissistic personality disorder
  • Grandiose sense of self-importance. ...
  • Lives in a fantasy world that supports their delusions of grandeur. ...
  • Needs constant praise and admiration. ...
  • Sense of entitlement. ...
  • Exploits others without guilt or shame. ...
  • Frequently demeans, intimidates, bullies, or belittles others.

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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #32
 
GeoRon's Avatar
 
Golden, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1974
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 890
Quote:
Originally Posted by zbaird View Post
Personally I would avoid higher seating. I like being locked in a low as possible. Cutting your towers may be the answer. If you do it, start slow 1/2 inch at most, and then go run it. You wouldn't be the first to be buying another set of towers.
Frequently no cutting is necessary to experiment with the first inch or so. If your oar tower fits into a modular cross typical of Hollander fitting frames you can simply push the tower down into the tube and hold down while resetting the screws. Towers should have a rounded end cap that helps maintain the aluminum tower roundness when cranking down on the set screws, hence, that end cap should prevent damage to the tubes. Since this is just an experiment in controlled conditions(an eddy or lake) you can let a bit air out of the tubes and maybe test up to several inches shorter towers before cutting anything. If you are worried about the tower pressing into the tube for this short time then use some patch material or other fabric for padding. Loosening cam straps may help during this test. If this experiment results in a punctured tube, I know a good repairman.

Doing this experiment for up to several inches should help determine if shorter is improving or worsening your geometry.

Otherwise, as Zach says, it is best to cut down in short increments before going for a big wack.

BTW, if you're out in the wilds you can use the tower fitting as a vice to hold the tower while hacksawing. Be sure to use some type of padding to protect the raft tubes from the saw. This of course requires loosening and rotating the tower fitting.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #33
 
wack's Avatar
 
Loveland, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2015
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 119
The absolute most critical element of seat placement is whether I can reach my beer. You guys all need a one right about now....
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