DIY square top oars - Page 9 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 09-19-2018   #81
 
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Originally Posted by stelz View Post
Thats good work on converting those old oars to square tops!! I always love it when something old you made years ago can be brought back to life again with some creative thinking.
By the way, remember the photo that CBRob posted with his crushed grain under the rope wraps/oarlocks? I yanked the rope wraps off of my oarlocks and also have crushed grain. Mine will get a carbon/glass wrap under my ropes before I put the rope back on.

I will really rough sand the shafts to get all the old varnish and epoxy off, so the new epoxy can saturate well and bond to the carbon/glass. Will do 1 layer of carbon on the bottom for strength, and 2-3 layers of glass over the carbon to spread the load.

Your sleeves are a good idea...think about a double layer of the sleeve material under the rope wraps.

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Old 09-21-2018   #82
 
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Update on Dustin's oars:

Stained the cherry squaretops.


Shaped the oar blades.


Fiberglassed the faces. Cedar is not very ding-resistant. Single layer of 6oz will make the blades much stronger and tougher.


Flow coat.
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Old 09-28-2018   #83
 
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Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
By the way, remember the photo that CBRob posted with his crushed grain under the rope wraps/oarlocks? I yanked the rope wraps off of my oarlocks and also have crushed grain. Mine will get a carbon/glass wrap under my ropes before I put the rope back on.
New oars are getting 3 wraps of 6oz glass and 1 wrap of 3k carbon twill.
A 2" diameter is roughly 6.3" circumference...so I cut the glass a bit over a foot wide and 18" long. The carbon is about 6" x 8".

I pre-saturated the glass and carbon laying flat on a trash bag. (No pictures because I only have two hands and it's a sticky process. I'll add pics when we do the old ones or Dustin's oars.)


Wasn't sure how to order the layup, so I figured the CF was best sandwiched inside the glass. I put a wrap of glass, then the carbon, then wrapped the glass around twice more. Squeegeed the whole thing flat and smooshed the epoxy around. Then I wrapped the whole mess with clear hockey tape to really smash the glass down into the epoxy.
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Old 09-28-2018   #84
 
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Also shaped the tips. Went for a somewhat traditional "wooden boat oar" tip shape instead of the more common full round. If I beat it up too much, I can always round them more. Based on past experience, the lower corner/curve gets 90% of the abuse.

These will get 6 layers of 6oz glass.
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Old 09-28-2018   #85
 
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You under rope wraps look good and should help with preventing the grain crush in a significant way. I don't think it takes much.


I ended up using Kevlar/carbon fiber sleeve that expanded to 2.5"...slid over the oar and pulled tight. Installed about 16" long. My rope wraps ended at 20". Picture shows the sleeve before and after install.

Second pic is wrapped with rope 20" long.

BTW MT4runner. I agree with you for sure on materials for blades. Considering the application I used:
installed a 14 oz twill weave on the blade..1 per side. Then two coats of 4:1 epoxy, each side.
Then, added layer of Kevlar around the tip.

I could have easily built the blades from cedar or spruce) and finished the wood at 1/8" thick before applying all those finishes. I think my blades are over built. But should be bomber.

I'll snap some pics of the blades shortly.
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Old 09-28-2018   #86
 
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stelz, that sleeve is really pretty! My friend RG is thinking of using it on his oars, I'll show him.

Your rope wraps look nice, too. Did you buy the Sawyer kits, or buy your own nylon and dye it yourself? Did you try a serving mallet/board?


Thanks too for detailing what you used for CF twill/weight. It will be helpful for me or someone else to refer back to this in the future.
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Old 10-01-2018   #87
 
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A few pics of my blades
One wrapped with rope.
You can easily see the Kevlar/carbon wrap on the tip.
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Old 10-01-2018   #88
 
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Wow! What color is the kevlar on the blades--orange...or red?

It will really compliment wood elsewhere on the oars. Those are beautiful. The more I look at them, the more I like them. I really, really like the twill on the blades. It doesn't look too "techy".
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Old 10-01-2018   #89
 
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Last set for blade glass. RG did a really nice job carving a very pronounced diamond shape into these blades.


We used a bit of tape to get the glass cloth to conform to the blade neck.
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Old 10-01-2018   #90
 
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Fabric Weights on Blades and shafts

Just gonna update this thread with Fabric weights and a quick process on what I did for any future reference with the Fabric.

The epoxy I used was the Composite envisions 4:1 two part thin epoxy resin system. It mixed well and seem to dry at a consistent time rate. I would use it again.

BLADES--In a previous post I noted the Twill weight as 14 OZ. This was incorrect. I looked back at my purchase order from Composite Envisions(out of WI). I actually used 12.5oz twill weave, one layer of fabric and Two coats of 4:1 epoxy per side. An important note on the epoxy, make sure the 2nd coat is installed on top of the first coat BEFORE it completely dries. The 1st coat Must be tacky so the 2nd coat bonds correctly and they essentially dry as one coat. (as a side note, on a previous set of oars i refinished a few years ago I layed up two coats of epoxy and let the first coat dry in between. The top coat eventually cracked in a few places and is now peeling off with the 1st coat showing beneath)

On the Shafts below the rope wrap. I purchased (from composite envisions) the 7.5 oz 1.5" carbon fiber/kevlar sleeve. This was VERY difficult to get over the square tops. I originally went with Kevlar thinking it would be more "impact" resistant to prevent the rope wrap from crushing the wood grain under the wrap. The largest weave they sold was 1.5" I would recommend getting a 2'-2.5" weave if you have square tops. It would probably go on much easier. I think a fiberglass sleeve would work just fine and provide the protection needed. I installed the weave 16" long and only put one coat of epoxy on. Once dry-I sanded smooth to make sure no burs or un-even lumps were below the rope wrap.

BLADE TPIS-I also installed this 7.5 oz kevlar weave on the blade tips. Because its a sleeve, It is essentially two layers of fabric on the tips. This should really provide some good protection from rocks. Time will tell. This was installed with spray adhesive and two coats of epoxy.

Once the the blades, the blade tips and the shafts were all covered with the twill and sleeves, I applied 4 coats of spar urethane to the shafts and the square top sections. I applied two coats per side of spar urethane to the blades.

My handles get sanded very smooth to 1000 grit and only waxed. I like the feel of the smooth wood. My other wood oars are done this way.

ROPE WRAP- I purchased the SGT KNOTS 3/16" nylon solid braid rope from Amazon. I did some forum searching and a few guys here had some good tips on wrapping. There is some discussion on the nylon vs polypro rope. The sawyer website says their rope is nylon, so thats what I decided on. Im happy with the rope I purchased. I got a 250' roll of black for $38. cut into 4 sections of 62.5' long, my wraps were almost exactly 20" long. If they would have sold a 250" section of orange rope, I would have purchased that. Orange wraps would be kinda cool and totally visible in the water if I lost an oar.
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