DIY square top oars - Page 7 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 08-27-2018   #61
 
Monument, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1996
Join Date: Aug 2018
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Yeah-agreed on the "Patina" and the river hag battle scars. I have some of my Grandfathers smokers that were given to me as my first set of oars. They are likely 40(+) years old and still row fine. Ive refinished them twice since they were given to me almost 20 years ago. Just too short for my current set up.

Agreed-after seeing CB bob's oar snap picture-you can see the De-lamination. Seems like either glass or carbon weave in this area is a no brainer. Hard to say if that was from water/weather seepage BEFORE the break or the break actually caused it. Could have easily been a combination of both I suppose.

SO-I really like the look of your Jatoba/CVG blades. Very Custom. and semi-rounded or oval would add a nice touch to the custom side.

Im thinking along the lines of Modernizing my blades so to speak with some colored fiberglass/carbon twill weave.

Check out the link...
https://compositeenvisions.com/carbo...1c5a4cc4410f53

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Old 08-27-2018   #62
 
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Telluride, Colorado
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Amazing work Shawn! Nice job! Hope to get out there with you again someday.
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Old 08-28-2018   #63
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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I checked out that twill. Very cool but too modern for my oars.

I'm hoping to build a dory in the near future and want to keep them more classic looking to compliment a wooden boat.
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Old 09-11-2018   #64
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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Update:

Almost ready to cut the blade flat tapers on the other two sets.

I'm stoked about the pattern of the "Hawaiian/leaf" pattern blades. My buddy is working with his mom to carve some really cool designs on them.

The "v-lam" cedar blades got a small block added to the top so we can cut a flatter taper at the top of the blade without cutting as much into the meat of the blade. (see small strip for general blade taper)
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Old 09-11-2018   #65
 
McCall, Idaho
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Those are going to be SO cool!
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Old 09-11-2018   #66
 
Boise, ID
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Looking really nice.
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Old 09-12-2018   #67
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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Planed the next two sets down, coved the "Hawaiian" ones.
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Old 09-13-2018   #68
 
Monument, Colorado
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Those are looking great!! The cedar laminations are really going to look excellent with finish on them.

Just going to piggy back my progress on with yours....
My CVG came in a week or so ago. I purchased my wood as S4S (surfaced four sides) to save some time in the shop. My oars will be 10' long and I'm planning to add some modern composite twill and weave.

I also purchased some 3' long carbon/Kevlar sleeves for the shafts and some carbon/orange colored fiberglass twill for the blades. Along with adding some strength to the oars it will add some style and uniqueness.

I'll be making 4 oars(two spares). I purchased just enough wood to rip the two boards in half and use the extra rips as blade material. Initially I'm thinking of going with shoal cut style blades. I started using some Cataracts with cutthroat blades awhile back and have found I really like them....

Just a few early pics of the wood and the intital run with the round over bit.
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Old 09-13-2018   #69
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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Awesome. I'm excited to see how yours turn out with the twill.

Could you imagine the effort it would take to plane those shafts round...by hand!? Huge thanks to CBRob for the suggestion to use the roundover bit!!

With the CF/aramid sleeve, I'd definitely recommend thinning your shafts down toward the blades to save weight...and with solid fir core blades, you should be able to go pretty thin as the carbon faces will add a LOT of stiffness. We went for 5/16"+ at the edges/tips and I'd think you could go thinner than 5/16" at the edges.

I need to weigh my fir/jatoba oars and compare them to the other guys' fir/cedar oars.
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Old 09-13-2018   #70
 
Monument, Colorado
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No kidding..+1 to CBRob on the roundover bit!!

Yeah-I've been pondering the blade thickness.
Thanks for the tips
I could probably get by with 3/16"...?

I plan to cover pretty much the entire blade.

For the shafts-
My smokers measure 1.75" almost the entire length from the handle to the neck. The neck slims down to 1.5 and blends into the blade
I'm thinking I can potentially get by with 1 5/8" for the shaft with the added woven sleeves. I don't want to end up with overly stiff oars and pretty much negate the wood feel.
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