DIY square top oars - Page 3 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 07-13-2018   #21
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
Buddy wanted a set, so I told him I'd help. Then two more guys wanted oars. We're now up to four sets of 3 oars.

Bought some gorgeous cvg Doug for at RBM lumber in Columbia Falls, MT, along with some spruce and cedar for blades.

8/4 x 6" x 10', and a couple of 8/4 x 8" x 10'.
I can easily get three shafts out of the 8" wide boards; probably 2 each with rips for blades or to laminate into an additional shaft in the 6" boards.

Not entirely sure what I'll do on the square top...probably 3" square, which will require a 1/2" ripper glued to each face of the 2" board above the rope wrap.
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Old 07-22-2018   #22
 
idaho falls, Idaho
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I hope you continue to post build pics. I'd like try building a set of oars but I'm not sure how the layers go together.
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Old 07-22-2018   #23
 
Crested Butte, Colorado
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Time for me to make another pair.
Broke one trying to squeeze the 16ft cat down the right side of skull.
Noticed that 22 years of rowing had really affected the surface grain under the rope wrap, should have replaced the rope at the 10 year mark
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Old 07-22-2018   #24
 
Crested Butte, Colorado
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The embarrassing incident
https://youtu.be/59Ngla1qcH0
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Old 07-23-2018   #25
 
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Originally Posted by whee View Post
I hope you continue to post build pics. I'd like try building a set of oars but I'm not sure how the layers go together.

Thanks for asking! I wasn't sure if I was posting too much without enough info as I didn't get many responses. Finally got started last Thursday night.


I had originally wanted to make them all out of 2x2 solid stock, but while the grain was straight, there was some curvature in the boards. We ripped the boards to 1 1/16" x 2", and then planed them down to 1"x2". Laminating them--even with only one joint--will make them much straighter and stronger. A side benefit of ripping 1x2's is that we ended up with a couple pieces with knots that we will discard or use for raft paddles, and will be able to build 2 total extra oars.



With all the wood ripped, we started swapping boards around to come up with sets that would all be the same weight. (One heavy board/one light strip, or two medium-density strips.)
Also flipped the strips end-for-end or upside down to make sure that any grain runout was canceled by straight grain or opposite runout in its mating piece. Grain runout is when the grain runs off the side of the board instead off the end of the board (which is ideal straight grain).



If you have a grain line that runs all the way across the board, it's going to break there. If the grain runs across the board in less than a foot, it's going to break right away. If it runs across the board in 4' or more, there's probably enough strength in the board to not ever break. So, if we had some grain that ran from upper left to lower right, we'd mate it with straight grain wood, or a board that that had runout going to lower left to upper right--counteracting the stress on the runout and minimizing the chance the oar could break from wood splitting.


The wood is all sorted and sitting on sawhorses with big 2" x 8" hardwood strongbacks that will clamp all the oar blanks perfectly straight while the glue cures.



We ran out of beer and it was 11:30pm, so we called it a night. Hopefully gluing tomorrow night. I'm epoxying mine; Jeff plans to use Gorilla Glue on his.
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Old 07-23-2018   #26
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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Originally Posted by CB Rob View Post
Time for me to make another pair.
Broke one trying to squeeze the 16ft cat down the right side of skull.
Noticed that 22 years of rowing had really affected the surface grain under the rope wrap, should have replaced the rope at the 10 year mark

Ouch!


I really appreciate you giving us the update and a pic of the failure mode. Do you think it was due to water intrusion or just the pressure of the oarlock? Would it be worthwhile to do an epoxy/fiberglass wrap under the rope wraps to prevent this on future oars.

Edit: it sucks to break an oar, but it's going to look magnificent hanging on your wall.
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Old 07-23-2018   #27
 
Crested Butte, Colorado
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I think the failure was all due to getting slammed against the rock, and that any oar would have snapped.
It did allow me to get a look at the inside of the oar, and I could see that the repeated stress of being pushed against the oarlock had damaged the surface grain, as well as allowed water intrusion.
There was a thick layer of epoxy under the rope wrap but years later it was all broken down.
I had resealed the rest of the oar 5 or 6 times, but never pulled off the rope to seal under it.
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Old 07-23-2018   #28
 
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Thanks again.

I had my original oars' ropes off 7 years ago when they got a complete sanding/re-varnishing. Those wraps haven't been off at all since, nor the v2 7yo oars. I'll give them some more attention later this summer/early fall when the new squaretops get done and wrapped.

I plan to build a serving mallet per the Marlinspike Sailor (as shared on the Shoelessmusings blog)
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Old 07-23-2018   #29
 
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Originally Posted by CB Rob View Post
It did allow me to get a look at the inside of the oar, and I could see that the repeated stress of being pushed against the oarlock had damaged the surface grain, as well as allowed water intrusion.
There was a thick layer of epoxy under the rope wrap but years later it was all broken down.
I may add a tube of glass under the wrap--or maybe all the way to the throat of the oar.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Braided-Fib...n/142384220991
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Old 07-23-2018   #30
 
Wondervu, CO, Colorado
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I am really enjoying your posts. Please add as much detail as you can, I am considering making a pair for my drift boat.
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