DIY square top oars - Page 16 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #151
 
MT4Runner's Avatar
 
Kalispell, Montana
Paddling Since: 1997
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I didn't want plastic oar stops on the dory. They're noisy and mechanical and black and clunky. looking at my oars/oarlocks, a plastic oar stop is almost 3/4" high, where you only need 1/2-5/8" at the lock to keep the oar from shipping overboard.

So..figured some canvas micarta would have a more organic look. Plus, brown duck canvas when wet is nearly the same color as my brown stained rope wraps. Let's get started!

I used a piece of heavy 1.5" poly pipe (epoxy doesn't stick to polyethylene) as a mandrel. Poly pipe generally has a curve overall, and it also gets squished into somewhat of an oval cross-section. I cut a piece of wood into an octagon that would fit inside to make the outside both straight and circular.





Next we cut up a bunch of canvas. I think I had (4) pieces of the old BDU camo...~24" x 8", and (6) pieces of brown duck the same size.


The poly pipe mandrel was wrapped with a strip of poly sheeting so it wouldn't stick too closely. Even though epoxy doesn't stick to poly, it would still be cured with a tight friction fit. The poly sheeting gives me a little more "wiggle room" to get the tube out. If I did a one-off, I could always saw it out, but I figure if I wanted to make more that I'd need the mandrel again...so the bond breaker layer.






Epoxy. Mixed up 4 oz initially. Would have been enough for this area of fiberglass; didn't realize how "thirsty" the canvas was. haha. Ended up using this x 3 (12oz total).

I travel a bit for work and save up my plastic room cards. It makes a great epoxy spreader.





Then both hands got messy and the phone stayed out of the way. I mixed 2 more batches of epoxy and squeegeed it onto the fabric. I didn't need epoxy "standing" on the surface of the fabric, but I did need it all wet out enough that the fabric changed color.

I'd literally roll the mandrel across the wet cloth and roll up the next layer of cloth. I pushed down pretty hard and gave the tube a couple extra rolls across the plastic sheeting drop cloth on the floor to tighten the layers.

when it was all wound on, then I wrapped the whole thing tightly with electrical tape. I really like vinyl electrical tape because 1) it doesn't stick to epoxy and b) it is stretchy and applies continuous pressure to the substrate. If I had used blue painter's tape, it doesn't apply pressure beyond its original tightness. Then put it in a tent with a small space heater to cure it overnight.




I unwound the electrical tape. Seemed the saturation of the canvas was about perfect. Could have had a bit of squeeze-out, so this tells me I may have some air bubbles, but not enough to lose sleep over.






The mandrel popped right out of the tube. The plastic sheeting bond breaker worked awesome.





Really happy with the way this turned out.





then I sliced off the scrap on the end and hit it on the disc sander.





The brown duck turned out really similar color to the stain I put on the rope wraps (same "rosewood" water-based stain I used on the meranti side panels of my boat).

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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #152
 
Fort Collins, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
So..figured some canvas micarta would have a more organic look. Plus, brown duck canvas when wet is nearly the same color as my brown stained rope wraps. Let's get started!
..
Really happy with the way this turned out.
..
The brown duck turned out really similar color to the stain I put on the rope wraps (same "rosewood" water-based stain I used on the meranti side panels of my boat).
Maybe I missed something but how do you get that onto the shaft over the square tops?
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #153
 
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Kalispell, Montana
Paddling Since: 1997
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GREAT question!

I didn't get to that step before I left for work this morning. They'll get split and machined like regular plastic oar stops.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #154
 
Salida, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1983
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Dude, you are a great visual story teller, thanks so much for sharing.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #155
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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Thank you sir! Spent way too much time 15 years ago on that 4x4 forum that noahfecks, Electric-Mayhem, and bgillespie would recognize, so I got used to "forum storytelling".

Really happy with how this proof of concept turned out. I drilled the holes from both sides, then used a 3/8" forstner bit to counterbore it. had a hard time gouging out enough space for the #12 SS machine nut..but my holes were tight enough that the micarta held the bolt.


one bolt hole has a slight crack between the canvas plies, so I'm thinking I need a bit more epoxy or a bit more pressure in subsequent layups. Overall I'm happy with this first step.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #156
 
Flathead, Montana
Paddling Since: 1994
Join Date: May 2020
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Wow, spent the morning looking this over. You guys are amazing craftsmen!
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