DIY NRS cross bar - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 04-23-2016   #1
 
Santa Cruz, California
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 11
DIY NRS cross bar

I have a 65" x 48" NRS Bighorn for my Super Puma and I'm trying to configure it with a dry box and cooler for a MF Salmon trip this June...Not sure if it's possible, or if this is the best boat for a June MF trip but what the hell.

All I need is to make one crossbar which would take the place of the seat bar to secure the cooler or drybox in the back. This way the rowers seat would either be the cooler or drybox. Is there a cheap and easy way to buy some sort of anodized pipe, cut it to 48" and fix a connector on both ends to secure it to the side rail? I guess I could also just buy another 48" NRS bar but just checking. Thanks

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Old 04-23-2016   #2
 
Great Falls, Montana
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I have made a lot of cross, seat and other bars. Your on the right track. For a gear boat configuration the seat bar is a waste of space so turning the cooler or drybox into a seat is the way to go.

All you need is a couple of lo-pros. If your frame has the previous style it will be easy to find some of them around. Otherwise just buy a couple from NRS or any dealer that has them. buy the length of 1 1/4" schedule 40 6061 from a local dealer and voile You can buy anodized or powder coat the bar but at that point you will probably be close to the NRS price.

One thing to remember is that PVC doesn't like raw aluminum it will leave nasty black marks on your rubber. Another option is to buy some clear gorilla tape and adhere it to the bottom of the bar where it touches the boat. I do that on all of my frames in order to keep the boat cleaner.

another option is to watch your local craigslist ads and pick up a used NRS bar that is as long or longer than you need.

You can use other fittings like clamp or speed rail but in the long run you will be happier if all of your fittings match. IMO
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Old 04-23-2016   #3
 
Denver, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
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Find a aluminum scrap yard and get some 1 5/8 od/1 1/4 id aluminum pipe. They may have anodized. Cut to fit. Buy some DRE fittings, drill a hole through the fittings with a drill press. Then put the pipe in, drill the holes where you want em in the pipe and put a pin in. Voila. I bet you could do it for under $50.
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Old 04-23-2016   #4
 
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Belgrade, Montana
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another idea: get the pipe as said before, then just remove the lopros from the seat bar that you are removing (no need paying for lopros that are going to sit in your garage). To drill new holes in the pipe to match the holes in the existing lopro just clamp two bare lopros to other pipes and lay them on a flat surface. Carefully measure the distance to the hole from the lip on the lopro and transfer that measurement to the pipe. Eyeball wether the hole in the old pipe is actually on center or not (frequently they are up to 1/16th off) then drill a hole (5/16" if I recall) through just one side of the pipe. Put it onto the lopro then drill out the other side. Bolt that joint together before doing the other end. Do the other end the same. Remember lopros, especially the older ones are not precision milled, things might not be perfect on your first try but don't forget, you're not rowing the space shuttle.

Once that is done just switch the lopros between the two pipes by removing one side and the through bolts.

It's really easier to do than I make it sound.


oh, to start the hole in the round pipe, use a punch to put a dimple on your mark. If you don't have one just use a big nail, Al is soft it'll dimple pretty easily. If you don't do this the bit can wonder easily, even in a drill press if not properly clamped.
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Old 04-23-2016   #5
 
Great Falls, Montana
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That was a great Idea Elk. I've never thought of that and your method gave me another idea.

Notch if you're just looking for a bar to hang something from you don't really need the bolts at all. If you have other bars that will secure the side rails, just take your existing lo-pros, put them inside a bar and install it with the ubolts/lo-pros. The bar can spin, and it will not provide any rigidity for the frame but you will be able to hang one side of a drybox or cooler from it. Just a thought.
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Old 04-23-2016   #6
 
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Belgrade, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ob1coby View Post
That was a great Idea Elk. I've never thought of that and your method gave me another idea.

Notch if you're just looking for a bar to hang something from you don't really need the bolts at all. If you have other bars that will secure the side rails, just take your existing lo-pros, put them inside a bar and install it with the ubolts/lo-pros. The bar can spin, and it will not provide any rigidity for the frame but you will be able to hang one side of a drybox or cooler from it. Just a thought.
Thanks, and I agree you don't always need bolts. I have several unbolted, but depending on the actual arrangement (especially if there is a long span between said bar and the next) you may want to bolt it. This would be most pronounced if the new bar were the one starting the rowers bay, i.e. closest to the oar towers. If you really torqued on the oars you could flex the frame far enough to drop a joint - unlikely but possible.
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