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Old 04-03-2019   #1
 
azpowell's Avatar
 
page, Arizona
Paddling Since: 2014
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DIB boats

hello so i managed to pick up a DIB 18' boat that is brand spanking new... i have a few questions about some of the features on this boat that i was hoping someone could answer.

so the first thing im curious about on this boat is it seems to have a drop stitch floor, i've never run a boat with a drop-stitch floor. i noticed it doesn't have a prv, and am curious about how tight i should run the floor, what is too tight?

another thing is that the floor and bottom of the main tubes have urethane coating and i was curious about repairs in these areas, glue, prep, ect...

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Old 04-03-2019   #2
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Call Dave at DIB. He'll tell you anything you'd ever want to know. If that doesn't work out give me a buzz and we can chat for a few.
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Old 04-03-2019   #3
 
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Denver, Colorado
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I second reaching out directly, they can be very help full. When I bought an old .DIB section 4, they told me all kinds of nice info on the custom made boat.

Congrats on your boat, I love DIBs but im a bit biased because I'm from Western MD.
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Old 04-04-2019   #4
 
Moab, Utah
Join Date: Feb 2014
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Lucky

That is a fine boat. I often row a 15 y/o version at work and it is my favorite.

To your questions:

I usually inflate by feel...not to hard, not too soft...but I should think between 3 and 5 psi for the floor. It is not a stand up paddleboard and needs a little give just in case. It is still easy to walk on with those low pressures. DIB will probably tell you more is fine but why stress test it?

Urethane will have to be sanded off the spot you are repairing. After that just normal DIB neoprene glue repair process. Buy your glue direct from DIB. It does make a difference.


Yes, call Dave. He'll give you all the right answers. Also, ask him about their experimental Drop Stitch motor rigs.
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Old 04-04-2019   #5
 
Boise, ID
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Not familiar with DIBs so the following might not be accurate for your boat.

Other drop stitch floors I am familiar with are 1-1.5 psi for the floor. Also, if trailering inflated, watch the pressure going over passes and if you leave when it's cool in the morning but warms up throughout the day. If the river is boney, run the floor really soft. Air pressure+rock+edge of drybox or cooler is not a great combo. Also run softer for big water-lowers the COG some and the tubes behave a little more cat like. On an 18 footer, I'm not sure that is as big of a deal.

For patching on urethane, you don't need to sand through the urethane, you only need to rough up and then clean/dry the urethane then glue.
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