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Old 03-02-2016   #1
 
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CLR

Any of you raft builders out there have preferred CLR that you like working with on 1.25 T6 schedule 40?

M3B Die Set - 1.660 OD (4.5-180) 1 1/4 Pipe 4.5 clr

M3B Die Set - 1.660 OD (5.5-180) 1 1/4 Pipe 5.5 clr

And no I dont wanna buy a rivertech or a canyon, or a rogue

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Old 03-02-2016   #2
 
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I use a 6.0 180 in " and 1.5" OD as a hobbiest frame builder. Thats all I have. Works for me.
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Old 03-02-2016   #3
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All depends on what kind of pipe you are running and how much flat deformation and elongation stress you are willing to accept. It also comes down to wether you are using a cheap machine or the 200k Nissin we use. Die travel speed, Die contour, Follower composition,how long the aluminum has been sitting and at what temperature it was stored at,wether you have certs on it or you are buying junk load from the metal store.
Curious to see what you are cobbling on though.

Most of all raft builders don't bend pipe they weld fabric so may be better off asking a frame builder who wants to share info for free.
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Old 03-02-2016   #4
 
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Do you have both dies or looking at buying one or the other?
I think most shops for the 1.5 are using 6.5 and not the 5.5. If you have access to both I'd just bend up a few scrap pieces to see if the 4.5 is going to deform the pipe. If not I'd just go with 5.5.
I've also been looking at buy a JD2 bender. How do you like yours and have you bent any bigger 3036 1.5 with it?
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Old 03-02-2016   #5
 
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I use a 4.5 CLR on a 210* die, 1 1/4". Works great. Rotary draw machine and phenolic followers for the aluminum. Electric over hydraulic powered. Pretty standard equipment for roll cage fab. Previously used 7.5 for years before that, standard electrical conduit radius, deformation on either is not a problem. Go for it, and have fun.
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Old 03-03-2016   #6
 
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I prefer the 4.5" CLR. You may need to anneal the 6061 in order to get it to bend without breaking (775 degrees F for 4 hours then cool at 50 degrees per hour). Your "cheap" bender will do just fine.

Don't worry about GreenWall, he always finds a way to belittle something or some one with every post he makes!
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Old 03-03-2016   #7
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sledhooligan View Post
Do you have both dies or looking at buying one or the other?
I think most shops for the 1.5 are using 6.5 and not the 5.5. If you have access to both I'd just bend up a few scrap pieces to see if the 4.5 is going to deform the pipe. If not I'd just go with 5.5.
I've also been looking at buy a JD2 bender. How do you like yours and have you bent any bigger 3036 1.5 with it?
Im looking at buying one or the other, and havent even bought my jd2 yet. Was pricing everything together when i made this thread.
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Old 03-03-2016   #8
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenWall View Post
All depends on what kind of pipe you are running and how much flat deformation and elongation stress you are willing to accept. It also comes down to wether you are using a cheap machine or the 200k Nissin we use. Die travel speed, Die contour, Follower composition,how long the aluminum has been sitting and at what temperature it was stored at,wether you have certs on it or you are buying junk load from the metal store.
Curious to see what you are cobbling on though.

Most of all raft builders don't bend pipe they weld fabric so may be better off asking a frame builder who wants to share info for free.
for fishing frames almost every frame requires a bender
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Old 03-03-2016   #9
 
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I would suggest 6063 T6 if you're going to be bending. Buy the electric over hydraulic if funds allow. The air is cheaper but loud, slow, and requires quite a volume of air. You will have to factor in the cost of a decent compressor if you don't already have one.
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Old 03-03-2016   #10
 
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Would also recommend the composite followers that jd2 sells. They are extra but eliminate the need for lube on larger pipe. Worth the money.
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