Cataract CB Handles- Removing Weight? - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 10-31-2017   #1
 
Moab, Utah
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Cataract CB Handles- Removing Weight?

Can you remove the weight from a counterbalanced Cataract handles or is it molded in? I'd prefer to not have to buy a new unbalanced handle (and can beat the current handle out if necessary).

Thanks.

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Old 10-31-2017   #2
 
Moab, Utah
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For future reference, you cannot remove the weight. The handle is molded around a piece of steel bar.
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Old 11-01-2017   #3
 
Willi..., Willimina, OR
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Separating the weight from the plastic grip

[QUOTE=portermoab;625122]Can you remove the weight from a counterbalanced Cataract handles or is it molded in? I'd prefer to not have to buy a new unbalanced handle (and can beat the current handle out if necessary).
...
Best way I've found is gasoline, a little O2 and a match to initiate the reaction. Then take a 12" piece of oak 2" round, 2x2 rough D-Fir and fashion a handle in a belt sander. It's a sub 5 minute affair per handle.
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Old 11-01-2017   #4
 
evanston, Wyoming
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I think I have a few spare unbalanced handles. email me with address and I'll forward. River karma: pay it forward. [email protected]
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Old 11-02-2017   #5
 
Willi..., Willimina, OR
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Anyone can sell ya handles. Only the coolest make their own.
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Old 11-02-2017   #6
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Weld county, Colorado
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Just weight the other end of the oar!!! Lol.
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Old 11-03-2017   #7
 
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Belgrade, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by portermoab View Post
For future reference, you cannot remove the weight. The handle is molded around a piece of steel bar.
You can cut the steel and remove most of the weight - I did that with my first pair of cataracts. I forget how much came off, something like half to 3/4's of the weight. A hack saw will work, but it'll take a while, a metal shop with a bandsaw will get the job done in a few minutes... A torch might heat the steel enough to melt the plastic and allow the whole rod to be removed (don't know what that would do to handle strength).

Quote:
Originally Posted by garystrome View Post
Best way I've found is gasoline, a little O2 and a match to initiate the reaction. Then take a 12" piece of oak 2" round, 2x2 rough D-Fir and fashion a handle in a belt sander. It's a sub 5 minute affair per handle.
While I agree making your own handles is the way to go, I'd like to see a video of you accomplishing this task (a handle fitted even roughly to the ID of the oar in 5 minutes with a belt sander...).

Other than the unrealistic time estimate it really is a great way to go - you can mess around with better grip sizes and the feel of wood in your hand vs plastic/rubber is well worth the effort. I make mine in a lathe and from start to finish they take a couple hours total - a belt sander will take more time unless you are a sander ninja like Gary...
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Old 11-04-2017   #8
 
Willi..., Willimina, OR
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Elk...Revise estimate

Yes Sir...I revise that estimate from 5 minutes down to 3 minutes reflecting the handicapped nature of some. However, finding a good piece of oak or d-fir with tight offset grain structure is not a 5 minute affair.
Scrub oak so over looked by the timber-folk have such a grain and it is incredibly durable. So the moral of the story is, " head out to your local forest, saw in hand, and grab some oar handles".
I use a 1 x 42 belt 36g cubic zirconium that eats wood as well a conforming to the tight curve. Row-On
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Old 11-04-2017   #9
 
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Cataract CB Handles- Removing Weight?

Why must you be such an ass of the jack? Now I am calling bullshit, break out the video or cork it.
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Old 11-05-2017   #10
 
Willi..., Willimina, OR
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I understand you generation is video enabled probably for its lack of imagination. However, this thread is about a plastic piece of shit oar handle with an iron bar affixed to such to apply weight to the upper portion of the fulcrum because the frame, tower lock was designed in the absence of any notion of physics. Folks need to know that they don't have to settle for the crap the salesman is pushing. An oar handle is just that. A monkey can carve one out in a few minutes. A video to cater to the lcd is not my thing. We can extend this same logic to the oar blade and shaft.
I frequently impede on these buzz threads when I see poor design; calling it out for what it is
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