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Old 08-11-2013   #1
 
Fairbanks, Alaska
Join Date: Aug 2013
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Alternative to aluminum dry boxes



Stitch and glue plywood
6mm top
4mm sides and bottom
Epoxy coated

Stitch And Glue Dry Boxes Slideshow by oyster9 | Photobucket

Build photos

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Old 08-11-2013   #2
 
Salida, Colorado
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Wow! I'm impressed!
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Old 08-12-2013   #3
 
Fairbanks, Alaska
Join Date: Aug 2013
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Originally Posted by denachuck View Post
Wow! I'm impressed!
Thank you,
The way i did these was not the cheapest but they can also be done with a skill saw, drill motor, a little cdx, rock screws, sand paper, deck paint and a will to do it. You really don't need to spend the bucks for aluminum if you ain't got it.
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Old 08-12-2013   #4
 
Harpers Ferry, West Virginia
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any idea how waterproof it is or will be? Or I guess any idea on how to make it waterproof or are you not worried about that
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Old 08-12-2013   #5
 
Jenks, Oklahoma
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Hands down the best looking dry boxes I have ever seen!

Craftsmanship is top notch.
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Old 08-12-2013   #6
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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Originally Posted by waterislife View Post
any idea how waterproof it is or will be? Or I guess any idea on how to make it waterproof or are you not worried about that
Epoxy saturated and with the weatherstrip, they should be waterproof.


Very nice.

did you glass them, knucklenuts?

I've found that long-term, a layer of glass outside and in will prevent a lot more water intrusion/rot. A scratch or gouge that dings the epoxy will be an eventual route in for water. Same scratch or glass just scratches the glass. Bigger than that, just do a spot repair.

6mm is a good idea for the floor--in case someone sits on it on rocks on shore!!!
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Old 08-12-2013   #7
 
Fairbanks, Alaska
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Originally Posted by waterislife View Post
any idea how waterproof it is or will be? Or I guess any idea on how to make it waterproof or are you not worried about that
Pretty good so far, probably not as good as something with a hinge and compression latches if it was getting thrashed upside down.
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Old 08-12-2013   #8
 
Fairbanks, Alaska
Join Date: Aug 2013
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Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
Epoxy saturated and with the weatherstrip, they should be waterproof.


Very nice.

did you glass them, knucklenuts?

I've found that long-term, a layer of glass outside and in will prevent a lot more water intrusion/rot. A scratch or gouge that dings the epoxy will be an eventual route in for water. Same scratch or glass just scratches the glass. Bigger than that, just do a spot repair.

6mm is a good idea for the floor--in case someone sits on it on rocks on shore!!!
I nearly glassed the ply before I cut the panels out, but opted not to, I should have at least taped the corners but I really want to see how they fair without it.
I used a urethane roll on bed liner called montsaliner for final finish. These were made fore a little 12 footer and being light was at the top of the design criteria.
I would definitely step up ply thickness and or glass them for anything bigger.
The best part of the design is the way the ends are canted, this allows one person to grab a end from out side the boat and lift and drag it out without binding on the tubes, same with putting them back and you don't lose any cubic inches by doing so, also you can get something longer in these that would not fit if built square
Thank you
Nuts
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Old 08-13-2013   #9
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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I think you'll be fine. I'd go glass or heavier glass before going thicker plywood for a bigger boat/more load. That bedliner is also going to help make them very scratch and water resistant.

Canted ends for loading is brilliant! It was obvious they have more space over the tube curve--especially from your sketch, but I didn't even think about how easy they would be to load/unload. Nicely done!
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