8' oars - are yours counter balanced? - Page 4 - Mountain Buzz
 


View Poll Results: Counter Balance 8' oars?
Yes 6 27.27%
No 16 72.73%
Voters: 22. You may not vote on this poll


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Old 02-15-2019   #31
 
Bayfield, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1980
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 276
Wow, the c-dog made the switch as well. I would to love to row a set. Haven't had the opportunity as of yet. I use a gimbal style oar lock that I made to fit rope wrap or sleeves. Folks just don't understand how much better a gimbal design is until they row them. This one guy from Cortez called it power steering for the raft. I wouldn't go that far but they offer noticeably superior range of motion and smoothness. Feathering is almost effortless. I am sold on the design.

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Old 02-15-2019   #32
 
Bayfield, Colorado
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Shrink wrap holding up ok?
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Old 02-15-2019   #33
 
East MT, WestMT, Both sides of the Yellowstone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesthomas View Post
Shrink wrap holding up ok?
Works great
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Old 02-16-2019   #34
 
Bayfield, Colorado
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Thanks Spider
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Old 02-25-2019   #35
 
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Wheat Ridge, Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 240
I have a 4' long raft with 3' oars cut down to 2'. Counterbalanced. Great for keeping my arms from fatiguing while rowing street gutters.
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Old 04-06-2019   #36
 
Calgary, Alberta
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 522
Thought I'd update this as I ordered some NRS helix blades and weighed all 3 types that I have...

Cataract: 3lbs 3oz (I'm not positive on the oz right now but I think so).
Carlisle outfitter 6.5": 2lbs 11oz
NRS helix (2" longer and 7.25" wide) : 2lbs 10oz

The helix blade has a carbon fibre shaft and is lighter even though it's a bigger blade than the other 2 I have.

Looking forward to getting them on the watter and seeing if I can notice a difference in weight.
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Old 05-11-2019   #37
 
Calgary, Alberta
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 522
Update:

Didn't really notice the minor weight savings of the helix today.

I took a lot of advice on this thread and others on the buzz that you don't need a lot of weight to properly counterbalance oars, and I added 1.5 pounds of decoy lead weights to each oar... And it didn't feel like enough.

Maybe I'm in the wuss camp but I think I want more weight.

The setup and geometry are new to me so I'm playing with it a little by moving the oar locks out an inch on each side and moving the oar stops in... But I suspect that I'll still want more counterbalance weight even after that.
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Old 05-12-2019   #38
 
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Kalispell, Montana
Paddling Since: 1997
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,284
What’s the width between your oarlocks?
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Old 05-12-2019   #39
 
Calgary, Alberta
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 522
Quote:
Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
What’s the width between your oarlocks?
Around 80" but I forgot to measure before I adjusted them... They're at 82" now.

I had the stoppers/oar rights for my new pro loks pretty far up towards the handle so I could play with using the oar rights or pulling them in to feather. This exaggerated the problem but they felt better when I pulled the oars in to overlapping for feathering.

I'm going to push them out and either turn them around so they're just collars, or use the oar rights at the same distance... Which should be about 39" on a 10' oar. I think that and a couple more inches between the oar locks will help, but I still suspect I'll want more weight as well.
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Old 05-13-2019   #40
 
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Kalispell, Montana
Paddling Since: 1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cupido76 View Post
Around 80" but I forgot to measure before I adjusted them... They're at 82" now.

I had the stoppers/oar rights for my new pro loks pretty far up towards the handle so I could play with using the oar rights or pulling them in to feather. This exaggerated the problem but they felt better when I pulled the oars in to overlapping for feathering.

I'm going to push them out and either turn them around so they're just collars, or use the oar rights at the same distance... Which should be about 39" on a 10' oar. I think that and a couple more inches between the oar locks will help, but I still suspect I'll want more weight as well.
Aah, didn't realize you had 10-footers. Thought we were discussing 8-footers.


Here's some math that may or may not be helpful:


Quote:
Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
I have a stern frame with 66 inches between the locks, a day frame with 74 inches between the locks, and my big 4-bay Frame is 84 inches. 9.5' and 10' wood oars.

I can swing the 10 footers in my day frame, but it is not as comfortable as the 9.5' oars. The 10' oars are great in the wider 4-bay frame.

Common rules of thumb for oar stop placement are:
  • 2/7 the length of your oar
  • 30%
  • and the 1/3-2/3 Rule.

2/7 needs a counterbalanced oar with light blades, I like 30% for most situations, and 1/3 works with heavy blades and wide oarlock spacing

For a 10 foot oar, 2/7 is only 34.2" of oar inside the locks, 30% is 36", and 1/3 is 40".

For a 9.5 foot oar, 2/7 is only 32.4" of oar inside the locks, 30% is 34", and 1/3 is 38".
What is your current distance?


I'm thinking you'll like somewhere around 37"-38" with your counterweights
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