Welding Tabs on my dry box. - Page 3 - Mountain Buzz
 

Go Back   Mountain Buzz > Whitewater Boating > Whitewater Rafting


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #21
 
mttodd's Avatar
 
billings, Montana
Paddling Since: Tues
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 382
Send a message via Yahoo to mttodd
I would personally avoid drilling your box unnecessarily to weld the tabs on. I use long reach vice grip clamps and even on FP boxes warping is minimal. Any quality box is good to go. In regard to tabs, I make some pretty nice ones out of 1/4 aluminum angle then mill a slot in the back about 1/8 deep slightly wider than the strap. Allows you to place the buckle on the tab and and strap right to the crossbar. Eliminates strapping over the box so you can open the box without unstrapping. Pm me if anyone wants or needs them.

mttodd is online now   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #22
 
La Grande, Oregon
Paddling Since: 1984
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 107
More on bolt on

I used 1x1 Aluminum 1/4" thick. I cut them 8 inches or so long. I put them on with the angle down, so it wears on the angle and not the box. On my cats, no we do not set on them, the are directly behind the rower, but I have stood on them many times. On my raft, i put one under the passengers up front and another under the rowers seat. On both I built bridges so that the seat is not directly being set on, as I was afraid it would damage the seal over time. What happened is that the floor pushes up against the box, shoving it up against the bridge that the seat is bolted to and is wearing the top of my dry box on the seat bolts! It is probably doing as much damage to the seal, which doesn't really appear to be much, but is gouging out the lid where it rubs on the bolts. WE do stand on the boxes often and I have not had any issues other than one of the cat boxes hit a rock and knocked a small hole in the seam on the bottom but that was not due to the mounting.
salmonjammer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #23
 
Electric-Mayhem's Avatar
 
Lakewood, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1993
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,367
A buddy of mine uses a thick copper bar inside the box to act as a heat sink. Seems to help keep warping to a minimum. Might be overkill...but who knows. He's using a Spool Gun too...which is much less gentle then TIG.

I was thinking about doing this last year but never got around to it. I have two of the FP 36" boxes in the front of my raft. I use a drop floor...but it would be nice to not have to worry about strapping it down across the top.

I've thought about using the thinnest highest strength 3M VHB tape to adhere the aluminum angle to the box. The adhesive is cyanoacrylate based, which is the chemical that makes super glue super. VHB sticks to basically anything fairly permanently. I'm a bit warry though...not sure I trust it...but if its strong enough its a great way for the layman to add tabs to stuff without having to get a bunch of special welding equipment. Measure it out, peel, stick...stick...and let it cure. Measure measure measure...once its bonded its gonna take some work to get it off.
Electric-Mayhem is online now   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #24
 
mttodd's Avatar
 
billings, Montana
Paddling Since: Tues
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 382
Send a message via Yahoo to mttodd
I’d be leery of that 3m tape holding up over time. It is probably the strongest adhesive tape I have ever seen and definitely the best available. I worked at a manufacturing shop that used it to bond aluminum skin to steel powder coated frames and it would rip the aluminum before giving up. That said, with heat and slow pressure it would eventually peel off. I’d be interested to know how it works if you try it. I still like to weld the tabs as it lasts indefinitely. Does pose more work if you need to change heights later.
mttodd is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #25
 
Whitefish, Montana
Paddling Since: 2003
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by mttodd View Post
I’d be leery of that 3m tape holding up over time. It is probably the strongest adhesive tape I have ever seen and definitely the best available. I worked at a manufacturing shop that used it to bond aluminum skin to steel powder coated frames and it would rip the aluminum before giving up. That said, with heat and slow pressure it would eventually peel off. I’d be interested to know how it works if you try it. I still like to weld the tabs as it lasts indefinitely. Does pose more work if you need to change heights later.
I'm curious too. I read up a little and it sounds impressive. Consistent stress over time seems like the question.
Sharkness is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #26
 
GeoRon's Avatar
 
Golden, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1974
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,204
I just ordered some VHB tape. Sounds like it is a must have item. Thanks EM. I doubt I'll use it for attaching a tab to a db but there are lots of other purposes I can think of. Probably even put some in my river repair kit.
GeoRon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #27
 
codycleve's Avatar
 
salmon, Idaho
Paddling Since: 2004
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,151
When I had my boxes built they custom fit the tabs to my frame for my desired height. On my captains boxes the tabs where close to the gasket and to prevent the gasket from melting we filled the boxes with water before welding. I would have to think that this method would also help with the box warping. If i remember right it took a little more juice for the weld. Not saying this is the right thing to but thought i would throw it out there. Thoughts?
codycleve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #28
 
bighorn1478@msn.com's Avatar
 
lafayette or Grand Lake, Depends on mood, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1961
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,109
I have used pop rivets with pop rivet washers on the back side. Counter sunk flat head screws and nuts. I have used wood screws with washers when making wood tabs. You may have guessed I do not own a welder. The big take away is they all worked and have held up so far. I do always put a large washer or a backing plate on the other side of box from the hanging tabs.

One thing I really recommend is inflate your raft and put in the water with some weight sitting on the frame, measure from the top of floor to where the top of your frame will sit if you want to make sure you have proper clearance between box and floor of raft. It will be different then when sitting in your living room.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Dry box 2.jpg
Views:	40
Size:	408.3 KB
ID:	42321  
__________________
Time is like a river. You cannot touch the water twice, because the flow that has passed will never pass again. Enjoy every moment of life on or off the river.
bighorn1478@msn.com is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 2 Weeks Ago   #29
 
Electric-Mayhem's Avatar
 
Lakewood, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1993
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,367
Quote:
Originally Posted by mttodd View Post
Id be leery of that 3m tape holding up over time. It is probably the strongest adhesive tape I have ever seen and definitely the best available. I worked at a manufacturing shop that used it to bond aluminum skin to steel powder coated frames and it would rip the aluminum before giving up. That said, with heat and slow pressure it would eventually peel off. Id be interested to know how it works if you try it. I still like to weld the tabs as it lasts indefinitely. Does pose more work if you need to change heights later.
Well...when I was researching things the main use I saw for it was in the trailer industry. A few of the RV trailer companies use it to build their trailers including bonding the structure together and the aluminum cladding to the outside. Not sure if there is backup mechanical fastening as well...but it seems to hold up.

My biggest concern was it often uses a foam core between the adhesive layers and I think that is the weak point. It feels like dirt and water could get into the foam and start breaking it down. That is why I said the thinest possible. If I had my way...I'd want a version that doesn't use a foam based backing core.
Electric-Mayhem is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 5 Days Ago   #30
 
Durango, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2012
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 287
I can't vouch for it but I bet roughing up both sides and sticking tabs on with Sikaflex 252 would do the job. I can't confirm this but I was once told that is what they use to hold together the two pieces that make a jetski hull. It's serious stuff.
Fly By Night is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


« Raft Guide Quiz | - »

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Topic Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Plano Marine Box vs NRS Canyon Box for splash box? spenceuiuc Rafting | Gear Talk 1 05-12-2015 10:09 AM
Dry box or kitchen box erdvm1 Kayaking | Gear Talk 35 11-25-2014 10:28 AM
Welding Box Hangers in Fort Collins SimpleMan Whitewater Kayaking 2 02-15-2010 03:29 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:21 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.