Welding Tabs on my dry box. - Page 2 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 04-06-2016   #11
 
trevko's Avatar
 
Fort Fun, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrkyak View Post
Welding tabs are the way to go. I've done a fair amount of Al welding for my rafting gear. I'm in Ft Collins and could help you out for a six pack.


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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #12
 
Whitefish, Montana
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Any update on this ancient thread? Thinking of doing the same thing on a FP box.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #13
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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I too need tabs on my FP box, but I have a 16" box and an 18" bay (all my cargo is 18" modules but the FP box was an economy purchase).

I should just sell the box and get a deeper one.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #14
 
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Golden, Colorado
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Tabs are the way to go, however, I had a dry box that needed to be compatible with two cataraft frames/boats. I could mount the box deeper in one frame/boat than the other. I used u-bolts and holes placed to accommodate the different frames. Yes, you have to drill hole in your dry box but with proper use of gaskets/silicon caulk and large washers clamped by nuts inside and out, they remained dry.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #15
 
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Golden, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharkness View Post
Any update on this ancient thread? Thinking of doing the same thing on a FP box.
How did you resume this ancient thread? I thought that that was not possible without admin intervention?????
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #16
 
La Grande, Oregon
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Bolt on works great also

I have 5 FP boxes. 4 of them hang from the frame. I simply used 1/4" 1"x1" angle aluminum and counter sank flat headed screws into the angle and then used a fender washer on the inside and a nylock nut. Put silicon on before mounting. None have leaked. No problem with the box warping due to heat.
They have been down the GR, Salmon, Middle Fork, Owyhee, and others.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #17
 
Whitefish, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
I too need tabs on my FP box, but I have a 16" box and an 18" bay (all my cargo is 18" modules but the FP box was an economy purchase).

I should just sell the box and get a deeper one.

If you're serious about selling that box let me know, I'm local in the Flathead and looking for one.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #18
 
Whitefish, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoRon View Post
How did you resume this ancient thread? I thought that that was not possible without admin intervention?????
It just gave me a little dialogue box to check saying that I see it's an old thread and replies were unlikely, but yall showed them wrong!
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #19
 
Whitefish, Montana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salmonjammer View Post
I have 5 FP boxes. 4 of them hang from the frame. I simply used 1/4" 1"x1" angle aluminum and counter sank flat headed screws into the angle and then used a fender washer on the inside and a nylock nut. Put silicon on before mounting. None have leaked. No problem with the box warping due to heat.
They have been down the GR, Salmon, Middle Fork, Owyhee, and others.

This is really helpful, and more in my wheelhouse than brazing Al. I see these pictures you've got up
https://www.mountainbuzz.com/forums/...ad.php?t=67138
and have a couple questions:

- is it angle aluminum or iron you use, and if iron have you seen reactivity between the different metals?

- do you stand/sit on the boxes, and do you get flex as the tabs exert leverage on the sides of the boxes?

Thanks!
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #20
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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To weld thicker aluminum angle to a thinner box and limit warping, bolt the angle to the box, weld, and then fill the bolt holes after everything has cooled.
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