Oarlock technical question - Page 3 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #21
 
GeoRon's Avatar
 
Golden, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiefstilh20 View Post
Threaded oarlocks could be a solution but then tat entailes more tools and if needed, takes more time to detach.
Actually chief, no more than the usual tools when on the river if pliers can be considered a usual tool. All ya gotta do...... is bite down on the nut with the pliers and then use a standard driftwood stick of appropriate diameter to spin the oarlock. Ya, I have to admit, finding driftwood of proper specifications on some rivers like in the GC can be a problem.

I like your spacer idea on your lynch pin to even up the two sides beneath your delrin washer.

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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #22
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
You could have bought a 5/8" fine thread die and some nuts for about $30!
https://www.mcmaster.com/2576a635


https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fas...dp/B00L1L81NK/
MT4Runner.....the point is to buy the correct thing in the first place and save the time and expense of having to modifying it.

The nut in your link is too thick. Make sure you buy the thinnest nut possible so when you thread it on, one full round of the threads show through the end of the nut. A nut like this is what your after.
https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fas...d_w=TIUxH&pd_r
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #23
 
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I don't disagree with getting a thinner nut for weight and ease of install, particularly when more threads engaged make little difference in this application...but depending on your oar tower/lock configuration a taller nut could still fit, no? [/splittinghairs]


If I thread oarlocks, I'll use the thinner nuts you linked, thanks!

Here's an even better deal!
https://www.amazon.com/8-18-Thin-Nyl...dp/B07QVHL9FZ/
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #24
 
Arnold, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterdog View Post
I had a similar issue once.



Changed up my oarlock springs and washers to be according to this diagram and the right size so the split ring didn't hang up on any of the oar tower.



https://www.nrs.com/frames/stainless...nd_washers.asp



Also gave them a good cleaning and lube.



Good luck,


Gee - All this time Iíve put the washers on either side of the spring. I never thought to put a washer between the oar lock & tower.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #25
 
Arnold, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caverdan View Post
Make sure to get the ones with the threaded lock nut. It's the best way to go and you won't have to worry about the split ring pulling through the hole. I started off buying one pair to see how well they worked and ended up buying three more pair to outfit the rest of my frames with them.

After putting it on a frame Iíve used these ever since, including when Iíve built a frame for others. Still waiting for someone to decide they didnít like it so I could swap for one of my other style.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #26
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
I don't disagree with getting a thinner nut for weight and ease of install, particularly when more threads engaged make little difference in this application...but depending on your oar tower/lock configuration a taller nut could still fit, no? [/splittinghairs]
If this were true....Cobra would sell a thick nut with their oar locks instead of a thin one....

Seriously, it does depend on your set up. None of mine would accommodate a thicker nut......but I've been called one before.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #27
 
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The tower photos of chiefstilh20 show a tower that requires narrow nut. DRE, AAA and NRS can use fat nuts.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #28
 
Salt Lake City, Utah
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No comment on fat nuts...
If oarlock shaft doesn't protrude enough through the socket of the tower you can always shorten the spring ... think I just scored mine with a hacksaw and used a pair of dikes. I've used the springs and washers on Cobras and on my own SS locks, they seem to help eliminate the squeak problem (along with bicycle chain lube or beeswax, my two favorite eliminators).
Bushings: I had aout 1000 miles on a pair of stands and 'locks when I noticed some slop before a trip. Didn't seem significant and I went ahead and ran 'em but had to lube 'em just about every day to keep the squeaks away. Got home and drilled out the stands (just put in a vise and used a 1/2" drill with 13/16 bit, would have been straighter/better plumb hole on a drill press but I was too lazy to figure out how to clamp the stand properly). Put in Delrin bushings and several thousand miles later still no slop, plus they don't squeak - ever. Have used UHMW bushings on another setup, also work perfectly.
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Old 2 Weeks Ago   #29
 
Salida, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B4otter View Post
No comment on fat nuts...
... think I just scored mine with a hacksaw and used a pair of dikes.

This is probably one of those questions better left un asked, but I can't help myself!!!!


How did 2 lesbians factor into cutting the spring?

Are they particularly knowledgeable about oarlock geometry due to their sexual orientation?



Inquiring minds and all !!
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Old 1 Week Ago   #30
My name isn't Will
 
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Dikes = diagonal cutters.


The potentially offensive term for lesbians is spelled with a Y. At least I think it is.
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My name isn't actually Will.
I live in the Willamette Valley about a half mile from the Willamette River.
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