Oarlock technical question - Page 2 - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 01-01-2020   #11
My name isn't Will
 
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Willamette Valley, Oregon
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Originally Posted by chiefstilh20 View Post
I threw away all of my split rings (large) due to a proven fact that with enough force they will get sucked right thru the oarlock tube. For some reason during the heat of battle getting set up for the MF this past June, the split rings made it onto my oarlock instead of my pins w/washers. The result of a bad spin the oar blade was "sucked under" the side and it catapulted the oar and lock out which also snapped the 200LB rated oar strap. Oar retrieved but oarlock lost - mayhem with 1-1/4 oar power at the top of Hell's Half Mile.

The split rings are not strong enough since they always rotate to to the single wire point. To make matters worse, most locks taper down at the pin hole and this allows the start of mis-forming the round ring to get sucked thru easily.

Here are some photo's of what I use and nylon washers to smooth things out top and bottom. Also I use a small nylon bushing to even out any pressure side to side on the lynch pin.



OK, well I might put my old pins back in. I worry they will unclip themselves which is why I switched to split rings. I've seen one mangled on a friend's boat, but not sucked through. That would... suck. I did see one of the pins get opened on its own during a flip in GC in 2017. The oarsman didn't use tethers, and while we got the oars back, we had to loan him an oarlock.

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Old 01-01-2020   #12
 
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East Wenatchee, Washington
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Originally Posted by Will Amette View Post
OK, well I might put my old pins back in. I worry they will unclip themselves which is why I switched to split rings. I've seen one mangled on a friend's boat, but not sucked through. That would... suck. I did see one of the pins get opened on its own during a flip in GC in 2017. The oarsman didn't use tethers, and while we got the oars back, we had to loan him an oarlock.
Everything has it's pro's & con's. I could cut down my Cobra's to the full diameter, but then the hole for the rings would have to be rather large for split rings. I have clearance on my oar stands for the pin set up, but other towers might not. For added safety I could also use a small cable tie to keep the loop from pivoting off the pin part. Threaded oarlocks could be a solution but then tales more tools and if needed, takes more time to detach.
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Old 01-01-2020   #13
Commo
 
Asheville, North Carolina
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THANKS

Thanks for the great feedback. We did swap the oars with no change, so it must be in the oarlock. I confess I don't know what brand it is, but when we dig it out of storage we'll know where to start looking for the problem.

Canoes are simpler....

Thanks again.

dc
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Old 01-02-2020   #14
 
Salida, Colorado
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Originally Posted by Commo View Post
Canoes are simpler....

Thanks again.

dc

So are pins and clips....



Just sayin...
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Old 01-02-2020   #15
 
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Originally Posted by Commo View Post
Thanks for the great feedback. We did swap the oars with no change, so it must be in the oarlock. I confess I don't know what brand it is, but when we dig it out of storage we'll know where to start looking for the problem.

Canoes are simpler....

Thanks again.

dc
If you can afford it and want to make a big improvement on how your oars work in general, buy a pair of these and your troubles will be over. https://www.downriverequip.com/oars-...-lock-pid-2576

Make sure to get the ones with the threaded lock nut. It's the best way to go and you won't have to worry about the split ring pulling through the hole. I started off buying one pair to see how well they worked and ended up buying three more pair to outfit the rest of my frames with them.
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Old 01-02-2020   #16
 
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Originally Posted by caverdan View Post
If you can afford it and want to make a big improvement on how your oars work in general, buy a pair of these and your troubles will be over. https://www.downriverequip.com/oars-...-lock-pid-2576

Make sure to get the ones with the threaded lock nut. It's the best way to go and you won't have to worry about the split ring pulling through the hole. I started off buying one pair to see how well they worked and ended up buying three more pair to outfit the rest of my frames with them.
You could have bought a 5/8" fine thread die and some nuts for about $30!
https://www.mcmaster.com/2576a635


https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fas...dp/B00L1L81NK/
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Old 01-02-2020   #17
 
Durango, Colorado
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A 5/8" die is $10 on Amazon, I checked yesterday because this thread is making me think about modifying my current cobras for lynch pins or lock nuts.
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Old 01-02-2020   #18
 
., Washington, D.C.
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Split rings and pins pulled through the oar mount? What are you doing? Seriously what situation leads to that?



Maybe pry those oar locks open a bit more so the oar will pop out. Any reasonable oarsman practices maneuvering with a loose oar.
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Old 01-02-2020   #19
 
Salida, Colorado
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Originally Posted by Fly By Night View Post
A 5/8" die is $10 on Amazon, I checked yesterday because this thread is making me think about modifying my current cobras for lynch pins or lock nuts.

Lock nuts are the way to go, put a delrin washer between the nut and the oarstand for super slick strokes, for that matter you can drill out your oarlock stands and put Delrin bushings in there too, makes a heck of a difference in the friction between the bronze and whatever the oar stand material is.
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Old 01-02-2020   #20
 
Salida, Colorado
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Originally Posted by Pickle-D View Post
Split rings and pins pulled through the oar mount? What are you doing? Seriously what situation leads to that?

Maybe pry those oar locks open a bit more so the oar will pop out. Any reasonable oarsman practices maneuvering with a loose oar.

I've seen it more than once, usually after a flip and long recovery..
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