frame geometry and rowing question - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 03-01-2019   #1
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 80
frame geometry and rowing question

I am in the process of ordering an AIRE 136dd and want to design and build or have built, a frame.

I am pretty set on a 4 bay with a stern anchor system with elevated stern seat. I really like the looks of the Montana Raft company, Neff, and DRE as well. I really want an internally ran anchor line to keep things neat.

I am more than likely not going to use a dry box at this time because I really want a totally flat front 2 bays that also are the same level as the side boards. I want to be able to stand up in the front when anchored up or in slack water and fish.

I am thinking that the 1st bay with be a table with a drop bag, end bay will be drop bag with hinged lid. Then room for my feet and the last bay will be a Canyon Prospector 103 cooler that I will row from.

The chafe strip on the 136dd is 80.75" long. for simple math, I am going to use 81 inches. Interior width is 38" and I have read that the canyon 103 fits like a glove.

So the canyon is 18 inches wide where it sits on the rails, and 21.25" (deep) on the lid. Its 37.5" long at the top. Assuming that I sit on that, how much space is needed in the foot area. I was figuring 24". Is that correct? I would like to have enough room to put 2 rocket boxs or captains boxes in that bay eventually if extra space is needed.

So if I have 81" to play with, 18" for the cooler/seat - 24" for the rowing bay, leaves me with 39 inches in front of the captains bay. I was thinking that the next bay would also be 18" in case I want to eventually put my cooler there and row from a dry box in the future. That would leave a 21" table on the front.

Does this put me too far back from center? For the most part it will be just me and the wife and dog. I'm not too concerned about the rear space as for the most part it will just be dry bags or whatever back there, not too many times that I will have 2 people fishing at the same time, I have a drift boat for that. I also need to add a bimini top for the wife. I plan on covering the table, lid, side rails, and the top of the cooler with seadek for traction.

ptwood has almost this exact design, minus the anchor system, but on a much larger boat.
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Old 03-01-2019   #2
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
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For up front seating, I was thinking about getting one of these Crazy Creek chairs vs a paco pad.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

A guide in the area makes these seats and I have heard nothing but great things, so I was going to try to figure out a way to make a flip seat over the cooler so I can still get into it fairly easily.
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Old 03-01-2019   #3
 
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24" is a good working dimension for the rower's bay. A lot of people use that. I'm 6'-6" and it's a tad short for me. If you're under 5'-6", you could probably cut it down to as little as 20".


Quote:
Originally Posted by SERE Nate View Post
So if I have 81" to play with, 18" for the cooler/seat - 24" for the rowing bay, leaves me with 39 inches in front of the captains bay. I was thinking that the next bay would also be 18" in case I want to eventually put my cooler there and row from a dry box in the future. That would leave a 21" table on the front.

Couple more points to consider while you're visualizing:


If you have a 4-bay frame, you have five crossbars. Use 1.6" for easy math. You lose 8" in bars....so that leaves only 34" of openings up front.


20mm cans are 14.75" high, so they'll stick up above your decks...they look more flush on a larger raft with bigger/deeper tubes. If you don't do a drybox, those are your only dry storage spots, and they're narrow enough that space inside them is rather limited.


You may need to plan on having a bulge behind your seat with drybags (consider an Everything bag)...it's not all going to fit belowdecks in front of you.



Quote:
Originally Posted by SERE Nate View Post
Does this put me too far back from center? For the most part it will be just me and the wife and dog.
The boat will always pivot around its center of lateral resistance. You could be in a stern frame and the boat will generally pivot around its center...your body just won't be in the same location. It really doesn't matter where the oarlocks are, but it does depend on where the weight of your body balances the boat.


Having your cooler and your butt both a couple feet behind the center of the boat will also tend to "squat" the boat a bit. Not an issue in Class II, but could be annoying in Class IV where you typically want your weight a bit farther forward to punch waves and holes.
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Old 03-01-2019   #4
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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By the way, my frame is 84" overall. 18"-18"-24"-18" inside plus crossbars.

You're welcome to grab it for a week or two and set it on buckets to think about where stuff will go while you're "bench rowing".


I also have 20mm boxes, table, cooler, etc you can play with.
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Old 03-01-2019   #5
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MT4Runner View Post
By the way, my frame is 84" overall. 18"-18"-24"-18" inside plus crossbars.

You're welcome to grab it for a week or two and set it on buckets to think about where stuff will go while you're "bench rowing".


I also have 20mm boxes, table, cooler, etc you can play with.
Thanks! I was also worried about having too much weight behind center. I'm 200 pounds, wife is 100 pounds and a 60 pound dog.
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Old 03-01-2019   #6
 
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Kalispell, Montana
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Duh, feed your dog more, or get an additional dog!


Oh, and my 84" double-rail frame has radiused outside corners, so it would come pretty close to fitting on an 81" flat. Like I said, you're welcome to borrow it. Easier to take something physical and decide what you like or don't like and take measurements than it is to try to figure it all out in your head. There are a LOT of interconnected variables so this is why a tinker-toy frame is easiest to start with.
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