Anyone have issues with oars popping halfway out? - Mountain Buzz

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Old 01-30-2013   #1
missoula, montana
Paddling Since: 1990
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 47
Anyone have issues with oars popping halfway out?

I have this re-occuring problem with my oars popping halfway out of the oar locks and getting stiuck halfway out and usually laying flat. Usually have to get out of the seat and kick the Sh1t out of them to get them out. They become use-less and I run the rest of the rapid with one oar. Worst part about it is it happens in big water. right before entering a rapid. Once in stone chest on the yakk, twice in Ladel, twice in the same run on pistol creek with both oars- one after another, once in lava and who knows how many times on misc. Lochsa runs. Getting dam good at running rapids with one oar and no momentum with pivot strokes. I have the taller NRS mounts and the heavy duty oarlocks- think I'm pushing up and out? Anybody else have this happen?

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Old 01-30-2013   #2
colorado_steve's Avatar
Paddling Since: 2002
Join Date: May 2011
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hammer the tips/horns of the oar locks closer together

Oh! I don't take it lightly! I've always got to know
There's an old lion a roarin' n the river down below
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Old 01-30-2013   #3
missoula, montana
Paddling Since: 1990
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 47
Originally Posted by colorado_steve View Post
hammer the tips/horns of the oar locks closer together

When all the chaos is over and I get to shore I find a rock and beat on them till the tips are closer together. The trouble is when I get the tips closer together, and it happens again, it gets really hard to get them unstuck.
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Old 01-30-2013   #4
prescott, Arizona
Paddling Since: 1982
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 280
are you using rope wrap or oar sleeves on your oars?

they may be worn out or have a bad spot.

or, may be time for some new oarlocks.

just a couple thoughts.

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Old 01-30-2013   #5
lhowemt's Avatar
at my house, Montana
Paddling Since: 2020
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,606
What kind of locks? The metal may be fatigued and it could be time for new ones. I run posilockers for that exact reason. I would not want one oar in stonechest....

Edit, new sleeves is good advice too
Living in Montana, boating in Idaho
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Old 01-30-2013   #6
MT4Runner's Avatar
Kalispell, Montana
Paddling Since: 1997
Join Date: Apr 2012
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Rope wraps or NRS oar sleeves?

You're probably pushing up and out if it's happening above rapids and not in them (hydraulics).

Try the NRS forged aluminum oarlocks--but they'll wear more on your NRS towers.
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Old 01-30-2013   #7
Sam Arnold IV's Avatar
Lexington, Kentucky
Paddling Since: 2008
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 34
I used to run tuned NRS Superston with rope wrapped Cataract shafts and that happened, so much so that it would wedge between the horns and cut through the rope wrap and ended up boring a hole in my Cataract shaft. It broke the second day out on the water. I ended up ripping off the rope wrap and went with sleeves. This set up worked very well with no additional problems. I'm sure my geometry had something to do with it, as well as me being somewhat new to the sticks. I love the sleeves for shipping, super fast. I went with Sawyer rope wrapped shafts for my last set and Cobra oar locks and love them. Honestly though, I've only had them on the water a couple of days. The way you tune them without the shaft sitting in the bottom of the oarlock seems much more stable. They are a bit difficult to ship though. The rope seems to want to bind on the oarlock if you are shipping them with any speed. Hope this helps. Sam I Am
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Old 01-30-2013   #8
BCJ's Avatar
Grand Junction, Colorado
Paddling Since: 1978
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 553
Check the angle of your oarlocks. That's what I found the problem to be on one boat I had when this was happening too often. The angle was to severe, such that when I raised the blade up by pushing the oar handle down, the oar pressed up on the horns, then a wave would knock it the rest of the way. Can also work the other way, i.e., if the angle is wrong, when your blades are in the water, the oar is at such an angle that it is trying to press against the horns. The oar should be able to swing up and down without pressing on the horns, and should lay as close as possible to perpendicular to the oarlock shaft when pulling a stroke.
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Old 01-30-2013   #9
kikii875's Avatar
Orem, Utah
Paddling Since: 1969
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 207
My youngest brother is the stronger of the five of us brothers, and on our last grand trip he was the only one out of the five that had oar problems. It could have been the angle, or it could have been that he was using too much force at the wrong time, which I guess would be the ange again.
One oar came out and the other got pinched in houserock, resulting in him flipping. He is the third boat.

He broke an oar at the top of hermit and was able to keep it straight with only one oar. Better than I did, I am the first boat in this one.

And then his oar pinched again in the middle of crystal but he was able to pinball down through the rock garden without getting stuck.
You had me at 'Hey, Row'
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Old 01-30-2013   #10
Avatard's Avatar
portland, Oregon
Paddling Since: 1991
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One of the reasons i switched to proloks.

I used to have this issue ALL THE TIME when i was using the standard nrs oarlocks. So i tried cobras which were much better (especially right after tuning)

For the most part, I never have had a problem except for the most inopportune times. Which in my book is still a FAIL

Its a lot of work to lift an 11' oar out of the water and back into the oarlock when you really need to focus on guiding your craft.

I considered the posilockers but they looked a little too "garage built" and i really want my oar to release before it shears completely off.

Hence Proloks, however --- i dont have a lot of river miles on them but my initial tests were very promising
Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it "guaranteed", I will. I got spare time.
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