AT Sking - Binding Mounting - Boot Sole Locating - Mountain Buzz
 

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Old 11-09-2009   #1
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
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AT Sking - Binding Mounting - Boot Sole Locating

I just bought the 2010 Volkl Gotamas and the 2010 Marker Dukes. I am an interemediate skier and average AT-er. I like to AT in the morning before work and AT in the back country. No racing or huge exposure climbs.

1- Can someone explain mounting the bindings at boot center or true center? What is the difference? What are the options and benefits?

2- Do you need a special duke template or jig to mount the duke bindings?

3- What is the best skin for this application?

Thanks.


Josh

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Old 11-09-2009   #2
 
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The Duke NIB should come with a template to lay out.

With that set up let a shop do the mount for you, in regards to the line, all mnfgs have a boot center mark suggested on the ski, usually on the side wall some on the top sheet.

I would mount boot center on the line or up to 2 cm ahead of the line.

most ski centers is about 7cm ahead of the line and is only used for park or switch riding.

There is no reason to go more than 2 cm forward of the line unless the ski is way to big for you.

The pros of ahead of the line are more ski control and ability to turn them, plus you get more tail so you can be steezy or lazy about your skiing.

the cons are tip dive in pow, not many others.

On the line. same ol' less effect on the sidecut.

behind the line, keeps the tips up and good for straight lining huge lines.

Seriously, the only people I know behind a RM line is myself, Jeremy Noobis and a few others. You need to be willing to go fast, and give up your tails.

On to my best recommendation, Go 2 cm ahead of the line for 2 reasons. 1. you will have more control over your ski in the back country and more tail to depend on.

2nd. when you tour on a duke and you release the heel to tour, notice the ski binding recesses itself 2 cm back from where you mounted it for AT. This is ok, by being forward you have less ski to pick up and push and I think it helps balance the weight.

I know thats alot, but my .02
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Old 11-09-2009   #3
 
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G3 on the skins
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Old 11-10-2009   #4
 
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So just to confirm:

Mount the binding 2cm infront of true ski center?
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Old 11-10-2009   #5
 
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no, not all.

in front of the line of the manufacture boot center. or ski center at MAX. never past ski center. 2cm forward of boot center marked on your ski is what i would recomend.

ski center and a duke do not mix, should have got a jester.
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Old 11-10-2009   #6
 
Denver, Colorado
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Take it to a shop $30=peace of mind

Hey,

If you dont have a Jig and the right size bits with depth stopper, it is easy to screw up a mount especially using the paper template. If the holes are off by even a mm or 2 your mount will fail. If you dont even have a template definitely take it to a shop

But if you insist, Using the template line up the line corresponding to your boot sole length with the mounting line you have chosen ( Boot center or +2cm) this will put the front holes well in front of the marked "ski center".
Make sure you put the template on the ski straight, and center punch the drill marks through the paper. if you simply drill through the paper your second ski will be more likely to be off...

Good luck

jk
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Old 11-10-2009   #7
 
mountains, Colorado
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My experience with skins:
-Started with snake skins. (Don't make this mistake even though they are way cheaper...you'll be wanting nylon or mohair after your first time out).
-My next pair was BD nylon. Awesome. I'm not sure what happened to these...lost many years ago.
-Next pair was the BCA low-fats. They sucked all the way around. Bad glue. Bad glide. I heard they have redesigned and are way better (maybe they'll read this and try to win me back by sending me a free pair of skins...?)
-My next pair was the first run of the G3's. They sucked. They had an issue with the glue coming off the skin. I warrentied and used store credit to get another pair of BD nylons. Now they are 10 years old. They have never been reglued and have 7 days on them already this season (probably over 250 days of b/c total). They are a sewn tip with a custom bungy tail. Works perfect...has never failed.
-Next pair...guess what? Yup. BD nylons (these are on my light weight set-up). They have the clip-fix (?) tail. They are once again...awesome.
-Girlfriend got a later run of G3 nylons. Glue issue is fixed. They are a tiny bit lighter than the BD nylons (I think...check Lou Dawson's site for exact weights). I don't like that the skin is thiner fabric. It kind of curls weird over time. It's like trying to fold up a silk scarf as opposed to folding up a leather belt. (It's gear I rely on so I like a little extra beef.)

These are my 2 cents. Do what you will, but if you buy right...you can have a pair for many years to come.
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Old 11-10-2009   #8
 
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p.s. I agree... spend the dough, go to a shop that sells Duke's, find the guy that smells like PBR and p-tex (go early while he's still closer to hung over than he is to drunk). Give him a 6 pack and tell him just how these skis spoke to your soul (after all...he is a gear junky). Compliment him on his craftsmanship and in the end...you'll end up with skis that you'll want to sleep with.
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Old 11-12-2009   #9
 
Winter Park, Colorado
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try a twelver ,six pack won't do it anymore, think about it 30 $ mount for a 7$ sixpack maybe if you know the guy really well and throw in a bud , i' ve worked in a tune shop for 10 years now and you don't want to be the six pack guy expecting to get a 30$ value, or more for a sixer , might get porn under your bindings or diff temp waxes on each ski , otherwise these guys have good info
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Old 11-12-2009   #10
 
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always pay for your tune, fuck trying to bribe with a 6er, unless its your bro. besides you want good work done, not have it overlooked cause the beer is already on the counter.
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