What Oars?? - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 11-14-2011   #1
 
Pittsburg, California
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What Oars??

i am currently building a frame for my Maxxon 12' SB and I have a question about oars selection. On my current old rig, I have Carlisle oars with the Outfitter blades. Doing research, I see that Cataract blades are buoyant. Since
my set up is going to be used strictly for float fishing and I will be fishing along with someone else in the boat, letting the oars go without as much concern regarding them hitting shallow rocks seems like a great situation. I am hoping someone has some experience with this situation. Also, being that this boat is wide(76"), I am wondering if 8 1/2 ft. oars are long enough. I will fe fishing some skinny water at times.
Thanks for any help with this.

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Old 11-14-2011   #2
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fisher5000
i am currently building a frame for my Maxxon 12' SB and I have a question about oars selection. On my current old rig, I have Carlisle oars with the Outfitter blades. Doing research, I see that Cataract blades are buoyant. Since
my set up is going to be used strictly for float fishing and I will be fishing along with someone else in the boat, letting the oars go without as much concern regarding them hitting shallow rocks seems like a great situation. I am hoping someone has some experience with this situation. Also, being that this boat is wide(76"), I am wondering if 8 1/2 ft. oars are long enough. I will fe fishing some skinny water at times.
Thanks for any help with this.
Dont expect your oar blades to float on the surface there is still a lot of shaft weight to sink them. If you really want to keep them up get counterbalanced lightweight shafts or pull them out of the water. Also buoyancy depends on blade type (different magnums)

76" boat is probably 66" frame. I'd go 9.5 no less than 9'. This is length with blade
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Old 11-14-2011   #3
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I run 8' on a 13' raft with 18.5" tubes and 60" between oar locks. When I am in continous IV rivers, I wish I had 9' oars. When I am fishing, I love the 8'ers. Remember that you can always cut down oar shafts and reglue the handles. Its a bit harder to make them longer.

"letting the oars go without as much concern regarding them hitting shallow rocks seems like a great situation" Ya avoid doing that. The handle herts like a sob when it punches you in the ribs or pokes ya in the ???. just saying.
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Old 11-14-2011   #4
 
Pittsburg, California
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Excellent advice. So regarding the Cataract blades, any positive buoyancy at all as compared to the Carlisle blades?
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Old 11-14-2011   #5
 
Chandler, Arizona
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9ft Cataract oars with carlisle outfitter blades.
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Old 11-14-2011   #6
 
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portland, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fisher5000
Excellent advice. So regarding the Cataract blades, any positive buoyancy at all as compared to the Carlisle blades?
Yes. The 6-1/4 not sure about magnum ii's.
http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=1392

Read the literature. I think the material itself floats vs carlisles have aluminum in shaft which obviously sinks when the air is displaced

But for a 7' shaft, 3 feet is inside and 4' plus blade sits outside the fulcrum point. Unless held down they will drop into the water probably at least the length of the blade

I put my handles under my knees or completely remove the shaft from the water to avoid this issue. This is using counterbalanced cats with magnum blades
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Old 11-14-2011   #7
 
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I agree, even if the blade is buoyant it doesn't completely allow you to just drop the oars, especially in shallow water. But does give you more cushion from it sinking and getting caught. You didn't end up mentioning your frame width but I agree with Avatard's 66" = 9.5's give or take. I use 10's on my 66" frame and they are probably a half a foot too long.

If you are outfitting this for a fishing rig especially as you say to use in shallow waters, I know a lot of guides that swear by the shoal cut blades by Sawyer. You can get them mounted on drift boat wood shafts or modular like raft oars, something like the MXS-F/G's with shoal cut Dynelite's would be a great choice. Their ash blades are also going to be buoyant and are really tough not shark biting in shallow water. You back-row a lot fishing so nice oars and quiet blades are definitely worth it. Carlisles and a lot of the plastic blades don't have the softness in and out of the water like a nice blade will.
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Old 11-14-2011   #8
 
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Carslile 8 and a half is a perfect oar for a 12 foot maxxon. When you get into longer boats, the particulars of high end oars start to make a difference. Fact is, it is not difficult to wrestling a 8 or 9 foot oar, balanced or not.
Also you run the risk of your oars costing more than your boat if you do not stick with Carsliles.
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Old 11-15-2011   #9
 
Pittsburg, California
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The frame width is going to be between 60-62", oar lock to oar lock. Has anyone ever seen some sort of stirrup set up to rest the oars? Seems like something attached to the frame that would allow an oar to sit out of the water may be a good solution. Most times, just a short stroke on the oar is all that is needed to keep the boat positioned properly while casting towards a good looking spot. I sure appreciate all of the great ideas and suggestions so far.
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Old 11-15-2011   #10
 
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They make those for one man fishing pontoons, check the Outcast, NFO, etc., websites.
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