Valve boot repair - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 09-22-2010   #1
 
Bend, Oregon
Paddling Since: 2007
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Valve boot repair

Hello everyone-
This is my first post and just wanted to say that I've learned a ton reading this site over the last few days. I just purchased a used achilles raft to hopefully last me about 2 years so I can learn a river enough to be able to take my driftboat down it.

Anyway, one of the military valves is leaking and it looks as though I'm going to have to replace the boot and valve. I understand that I'll have to cut the boot out but I'm not sure where to cut. Second, I'm guessing there are four chambers, because I have four valves, but the air coming out of the one valve seems to allow the boat to deflate 3 or the 4 chambers. Basically the front left of the boat stays rock hard but the rest of the boat is noticeably soft if left sitting for a day. What's your guess on that?

Thanks everyone and I look forward to learning more from this site.

-Shannon

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Old 09-22-2010   #2
 
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C. Springs, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyjunky View Post
Hello everyone-
This is my first post and just wanted to say that I've learned a ton reading this site over the last few days. I just purchased a used achilles raft to hopefully last me about 2 years so I can learn a river enough to be able to take my driftboat down it.

Anyway, one of the military valves is leaking and it looks as though I'm going to have to replace the boot and valve. I understand that I'll have to cut the boot out but I'm not sure where to cut. Second, I'm guessing there are four chambers, because I have four valves, but the air coming out of the one valve seems to allow the boat to deflate 3 or the 4 chambers. Basically the front left of the boat stays rock hard but the rest of the boat is noticeably soft if left sitting for a day. What's your guess on that?

Thanks everyone and I look forward to learning more from this site.

-Shannon
My guess is that you have two leaking or blown baffles. Baffles are the material that is inside the tube and seperates the chambers from each other. Is the one valve thats leaking part of the three chambers that appear to be one chamber now? If so you could patch over the bad valve and use one of the other two valves to inflate the boat. Just a thought.
Dan
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Old 09-22-2010   #3
 
Bend, Oregon
Paddling Since: 2007
Join Date: Sep 2010
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yes, the leaking valve is part of the "one" big chamber now. I guess I could patch over it but I think I'll just replace the boot and valve. I'm guessing that having the baffles fixed would not be cheap.

Have you replaced a valve boot?
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Old 09-22-2010   #4
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Barnard(Marshall), North Carolina
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I've never replaced/removed or repaired a boot but I have looked into it. I think you can heat up the boot area enough to soften the glue and pry it apart. Dont put a new boot in it, get some donut patches and a new c7 valve from NRS. These should also work for you if you have to cut it out.
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Old 09-23-2010   #5
 
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C. Springs, Colorado
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No, I've never replaced a valve boot. I'm lucky to live close to some really good repair shops so I only fix minor stuff. I agree with Matt that you would be better off putting in a different type of valve if you end up removing the whole boot.
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Old 09-23-2010   #6
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Barnard(Marshall), North Carolina
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the c7 is a way better valve, and the donut patches seem much easier than putting a boot back in. I read some stuff on it on the buzz, and possibly on nrs, clavey, etc. Just google it or raft repair and you should find all sorts of info. Let us know how it goes, I've got an Avon with similar issues that I've been putting off for far too long.
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Old 09-23-2010   #7
 
pocatello, Idaho
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while your baffles may be bad that isn't necessarily the case. some baffles in some boats I've used and repaired have been fairly generous in how far they can bow from one chamber to another. Doesn't make sense?

If you inflate one chamber fairly firm and leave the others flat you can see the baffle pushing into the next chamber. now if you inflate all the chambers hard and the first chamber is the one with a leak then that chamber will go flat and the baffle will be pushed back into place and the other chambers will become effectively larger. This will make them appear to lose air, but they aren't losing air, just volume.

fill 2 opposite chambers at a time and leave them. do they go flat? then the baffles may be bad. do they stay tight? you need to learn to inflate the chambers more evenly (don't pump the first chamber so tight).
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Old 09-23-2010   #8
 
Bend, Oregon
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Thanks guys for all the help. I'll deal with this when I get back from vacation. I think I'll take your advice and buy a doughnut patch and C-7 valve. I'll give you all an update on what happens.
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Old 09-24-2010   #9
 
Fort Collins, Colorado
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yo man i would listen to fiya79 my questions would be is the leaky valve kiddie corner from the tube that stays hard if so your baffels are probably fine the next thing is do the other chambers fill when filling one if so the means you got bad baffels. as far as the leaky valve goes where it is it leaking are you sure it needs to be complete replaced? The last thing i would say is a lot of people like to switch to a new c7 i think it,s personal choice in my opnion the c7s are cheap crap but thats just me
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Old 09-24-2010   #10
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if the c7's are cheap crap then what valve is better?
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