Sewing a trampoline floor? - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 03-16-2012   #1
 
Helena, Montana
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Sewing a trampoline floor?

We bought a heavy duty sewing machine this winter & I have been messing around with it. Have made some drink holders, a dish rack, a paddle bag, a few odds & ends. Getting the hang of it.

I need a new floor for my gear hauler & want to take a crack at making a tramp floor. i have found the material, but am wondering how to go about it. would you need to pre stretch it and hem a webbing edge around it (no idea how that would work)? Or just hem the edges & grommet the thing? how much will it stretch? Do I make it smaller and draw it tight when I install it? Does any of that make any sense?

Also, for those that have worked with it, how is it to sew? tricks/tips appreciated.

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Old 03-16-2012   #2
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Hey I have a trampoline floor that I am playing with. And we got our other trampoline in Montana. Coincidence? I think not.

Interested to know as well. I was going to use mine for drop bag.
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Old 03-16-2012   #3
 
Helena, Montana
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spooky...

i haven't ordered it yet, so I'm going on 20 year old memories of what the stuff is like. just how stretchy is it?
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Old 03-16-2012   #4
 
La Grande, Oregon
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I made floors for three cat frames we made last winter. Cut up two trampoline floors. We cut the old hangers off of the trampoline, cut it to size, (not much stretch, all the stretch in the old trampoline came out of the springs) sewed the old strapping back on and reattached the short straps with the D rings. Then used narrow nylon (fish tape for puling electricial wires) to put floor in frames. Broke quite a few needles, used a 1950 vintage Singer sewing machine. Floor work great!!
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Old 03-16-2012   #5
 
Wondervu, CO, Colorado
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I have made a floor for my cataraft. I got everything I needed from Seattle Fabrics online. I used their trampoline fabric which is similar to the product NRS uses. If you are doing a suspended cargo floor for a raft you can use the cheaper phifertex fabric. Stretch is not an issue woith the trampoline material.

My floor design used two layers of 1" webbing to reinforce all the seams and the perimeter. (1" hem in the mesh betwen two layers of webbing.) I added grommets at 8" o.c. around the perimeter and laced it to the frame with 1/2" tubular webbing. I found it very difficult to get enough tension on the lacing to do a nice job and prevent sagging. The longer frame bars would bend and it was reall hard to get even tension on all sides. Eventially I gave up and made a wood floor out of 1X6 mahogany slats spaced about 6" o.c. with 3" dia. holes drill in the boards for tie downs and to reduce weight.

I noticed that many commercial floors us cam straps, I went with the lace up design to save the cost of buying 20 plus buckles and avoid cutting my feet on metal. While the cam straps might help with the tension I would still need to install addtional cross braces to keep the longer bars from flexing. If I were to do it agian I might add a 1/4" dia. aluminum rod to the hem to stiffen the perimeter.

If you are doing a suspended floor for a raft instead of a tramp floor, I would look at the designs by Stiches and Stuff or River Tuff. These are big bags that combine a suspended floor, a drop bag and cargo net in one unit. I have friends with these and they make rigging a dream.

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Old 03-16-2012   #6
 
Helena, Montana
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thanks for the good info, confirms some of what I was thinking.

the cataraft everything bag on the SNS sight is (i'm pretty sure) the one jan made for me. its badass! she makes killer stuff.

I'm just trying to figure out a new floor option for my big cat. i had an NRS one that totally fell apart on me, so I want to make something better. I'd ather have something that drains, want to stay away from wood. I was wondering if a double layer of phifertex re-enforced w/webbing would be tough enough to not blow out under repeated body weight? all cargo weight will be suspended from the frame, so it will just be people/dogs stressing it.
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Old 03-16-2012   #7
 
Wondervu, CO, Colorado
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The trampoline fabrix is much stronger than the phifertex and is has much less stretch.

My wood floor actually drains a little faster than the old mesh floor. This is because my twin tube cat is very low to the water and the mesh floor was usually under water, especially when I was standing on it. The wood floor is more rigid and mounts about 1" higher than the fabric. It is made from 1x6 slats of mahogany (old table top) spaced with 4" gaps between boards. The boards are drilled out with 2" dia. holes on about 6" centered for the full width. So there is more than 50% void space in the system. The holes are also idea tie down points for gear. I only placed the floor where I needed to walk, the cargo bays are open below with drop bags.
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Old 03-16-2012   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainMedic View Post
spooky...

i haven't ordered it yet, so I'm going on 20 year old memories of what the stuff is like. just how stretchy is it?
what they said. The material itself does not seem super stretchy. How is that for definitive?

Also, I have a complete 14 foot tramp that I have no other use for. Doesn't appear to have any tears or excessive wear - it is used though? Don't know what the fabric sells for, but I am not going to need the whole thing unless I go into HD drop bag fabrication. For my use I am actually putting aluminum stays in the bottom to help hold the rectangular shape.

That's all I have.
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Old 03-16-2012   #9
 
Helena, Montana
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wouldn't the support straps be enough to hold the shape?
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Old 03-16-2012   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainMedic View Post
wouldn't the support straps be enough to hold the shape?
I am throwing some chairs in there so I don't want it to hang down at all towards the floor if the load is uneven. I pulled the stays out of a Crazy creek chair so I don't have anything in them.
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