Setting up new NRS frame - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 06-02-2012   #1
 
avon, Colorado
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Setting up new NRS frame

I just bought a New NRS Bighorn II frame from a friend. It's a bit big for my boat, but I have no problem making the modification needed. My question is how far in from the outside edge of the raft tubes should the frame be? I wanted to leave it at wide as possible to put rails on outside edges like a dual rail frame. Is there any issues with having my oar locks out to far? All help is greatly appreciated. Also if my drybox and cooler are smaller than my I.D. of my raft will that compromise it structurally? since it doesn't have Thwarts anymore?

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Old 06-03-2012   #2
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawktoy85
I just bought a New NRS Bighorn II frame from a friend. It's a bit big for my boat, but I have no problem making the modification needed. My question is how far in from the outside edge of the raft tubes should the frame be? I wanted to leave it at wide as possible to put rails on outside edges like a dual rail frame. Is there any issues with having my oar locks out to far? All help is greatly appreciated. Also if my drybox and cooler are smaller than my I.D. of my raft will that compromise it structurally? since it doesn't have Thwarts anymore?
i'm guessing you have a 72" frame on a boat that optimally takes 66"

Normally you want the outside edge of the frame in contact with the tube. It allows the straps to keep the frame from moving side to side as each strap is pulling outward against the frame.

Now if you had an inner rail you could strap to that


How much smaller are we talking for the cooler and drybox? Can you fill the gap with ethafoam?

Another idea might be universal drop rails if you have no other options dont care about weight and having the frame easily transport flat

A custom designed footbar might also fill this niche. Nrs will bend the pipe any way you specify as long as its a bend they can do with their machine.
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Old 06-03-2012   #3
 
avon, Colorado
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I have the drop foot bar that came with the frame. That fits in there snug. I am assuming that is not enough though, right? The more contact points the better?

The gap at cooler is about 2" on each side. I could add the foam like you said that might be the easiest solution.

Seems hard to find tubing specs for DRE vs. NRS. Are there frame pieces interchangeable? Things like fishing bars.
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Old 06-03-2012   #4
 
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Both are pipe not tubing.
Nrs = sched 40 1-1/4 which has 1.66 od
Dre might be 1-1/2 which has 1.9 od
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Old 06-03-2012   #5
 
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Originally Posted by hawktoy85 View Post
I have the drop foot bar that came with the frame. That fits in there snug. I am assuming that is not enough though, right? The more contact points the better?

The gap at cooler is about 2" on each side. I could add the foam like you said that might be the easiest solution.

Seems hard to find tubing specs for DRE vs. NRS. Are there frame pieces interchangeable? Things like fishing bars.
Don't worry about trying to fill the extra space. If properly fit, the frame and raft will be more than enough structural support. If hit the gnar enough to use a cooler for support, then you have other things to worry about.

I run 66" wide by 82" long NRS from on my E-140. It fits just right. Your frame width should be just wider than the C-C width of your raft (center of left tube to center of right tube) Do go any wider than the wear patches.

I ditched the NRS foot bar on mine and bought a DRE footbar. If you call them and let them know you want one to fit NRS Lo-Pro fittings, they know what to make. They will also discount their price if you already have the fittings.

Here is my thread on the complete build, https://www.mountainbuzz.com/forums/f...mes-41322.html
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Old 06-03-2012   #6
 
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I use small loops of hoopie, run thru the bail holes(MUCH easier to tie from the bottom!), then attach straps to them along the inside of the tubes to hold them apart. Along with the outside straps there's more than enough structural support.
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Old 06-03-2012   #7
 
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Originally Posted by JustKip
I use small loops of hoopie, run thru the bail holes(MUCH easier to tie from the bottom!), then attach straps to them along the inside of the tubes to hold them apart. Along with the outside straps there's more than enough structural support.
Whats hoopie?

If i get what you are saying, the top rail of the frame straps to the outside Drings as well as to the self bailing holes? I guess you could add inner Drings too

When you strap the frame to the drings do run the straps diagonally so the frame cant shift fore and aft
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Old 06-03-2012   #8
 
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Sorry! Tubular webbing, like what's used for anchor points for Z-drag rigging.

I turn the boat over and attach a small loop near where the flat section of the tubes transition for the rocker at the front and back of each side. I do this only because it's easier to attach a strap thru a loop when the boat is upright, rather than trying to feed a strap down one bail hole and back up the next one.

I try to run the straps diagionally both inside and out (front straps forward, rear ones back), but one or the other (all inside or all outside) run diagionally is fine.

This way of rigging locks the tubes to the frame in all directions even with nothing inside the frame, and no thwarts.

Adding D-rings to the inside of the tubes is a great idea, both for rigging the frame and tying down loads or supporting a "beaver tail" (load floor).
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Old 06-04-2012   #9
 
avon, Colorado
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So I setup everything last night. I am sitting on my cooler to row from and the oars feel really low. I have the 6" NRS towers now, but it seams like even if I go with the 8" might not be enough. right now the top of my oar locks line up with where I sit. Can I use the DRE uprights on my NRS frame? They are 11".

I have not put the boat in the water yet with new setup.
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Old 06-04-2012   #10
 
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how are you cutting down the frame? an NRS is a bitch to cut down because you need to redrill all the holes blind to keep some semblance of the original strength, or drill new holes that weaken the tees.

I figured out a system with markers, right angles etc, but it takes about 20 mins per hole.

the 6 in towers are tight for me sitting in a seat. a cooler is usually higher, and that makes it worse. the 8 inch towers are tall enough on my boat to sit on a cooler, but its close.
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