rounded frame corners and anodizing - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 01-13-2011   #1
 
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Denver, Colorado
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rounded frame corners and anodizing

So I am planning out a frame for my new raft, and want to know if the rounded corners are much nicer? stronger? lighter? squeaky? etc. my last frame was a fitting frame, which worked fine, but I do like the look of the rounded frame corners. Are they worth the cost? (extra $160 to the frame)

secondly, my last frame wasn't anodized - does this really make a big difference for frame marks on the boat/hands? or does the coating wear off eventually and still mark up the boat?

thanks,

Ed

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Old 01-13-2011   #2
 
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vancouver, Washington
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My experience is that without anodizing you will put a lot of oxide on your hands, your strap, and your tubes
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Old 01-24-2011   #3
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Oxidation is a continuous process and will always leave gray marks on you and your boat. You can paint, powder coat or anodize your frame to prevent this. Anodizing will last the longest.
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Old 01-24-2011   #4
 
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IMO, anodizing is essential. If you've ever handled raw Aluminum, you know why. It is nasty, black crap everywhere. You'll still get some marking on your boat even with anodizing, but it will be minimal.
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Old 01-24-2011   #5
 
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Thanks all-

My last frame wasn't anodized (clear coated), and other than the black marks on the boat, I didn't get anything on my hands (probably hadn't worn thru the paint yet... I was thinking about chinceing out and putting Helicopter tape on the frame rails, but maybe thats not the place to cheap out.

Any thoughts about the bent corners? stronger? lighter? faster? gets all the ladies? I'm leaning towards a single rail fitting frame, since I can add the corners later.

Ed
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Old 01-25-2011   #6
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I'm in the process of building a frame right now and have opted for a welded aluminum frame with the rounded corners. I got a local machinist to bend some corners for me for $60. You could also try taking your material to a muffler shop to bend the corners. You'll need to get a hold of some 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" aluminum conduit depending on how heavy you want your frame to be The rounded corners look nice and create a smooth transition from one tube to the next. Where as fittings protrude above the surface of the rails which makes it necessary to cut out notches for deck boards to lie flat. A welded frame will be lighter than a frame with lopro's or hollaender fittings. I don't know if a welded frame is any stronger than a frame using lopro's or hollaender fittings. I say this because welding aluminum is going to destroy the temper of the material, and thus the strength, around the welded joint. If you could temper and re-harden the material in a frame-sized oven then a welded aluminum frame would be stronger. But no one does this and they still offer lifetime warranties on welded frames. An option I'm considering is welding together the perimeter of a dual-rail frame and using lopro's for the internal rails for some adjustability.
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Old 01-25-2011   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregflorian View Post
I'm in the process of building a frame right now and have opted for a welded aluminum frame with the rounded corners. I got a local machinist to bend some corners for me for $60. You could also try taking your material to a muffler shop to bend the corners. You'll need to get a hold of some 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" aluminum conduit depending on how heavy you want your frame to be The rounded corners look nice and create a smooth transition from one tube to the next. Where as fittings protrude above the surface of the rails which makes it necessary to cut out notches for deck boards to lie flat. A welded frame will be lighter than a frame with lopro's or hollaender fittings. I don't know if a welded frame is any stronger than a frame using lopro's or hollaender fittings. I say this because welding aluminum is going to destroy the temper of the material, and thus the strength, around the welded joint. If you could temper and re-harden the material in a frame-sized oven then a welded aluminum frame would be stronger. But no one does this and they still offer lifetime warranties on welded frames. An option I'm considering is welding together the perimeter of a dual-rail frame and using lopro's for the internal rails for some adjustability.
Most aluminum frames are 6061-T6 or 6063. No body I know heat tempers after welding because these alloys also "age" temper, regaining a fair amount of origional temper strength over a fairly short period of time after welding.
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Old 01-25-2011   #8
 
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Hmmm so many decisions. All my boating stuff was perfectly fine until I joined the buzz.... You guys know how to awaken the inner gear head

Greg- are you cheating your frame a little longer than your flat tube with the rounded corners?
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Old 01-25-2011   #9
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This frame is for a 14' boat and I can accommodate 4 bays within the length of the flat section of the tubes with the 1 1/4 " pipe. I'm configuring the bays as a 12" drybox, 24" cockpit, 18" cooler, and 19.5" dropbag for 20mm cans. I could cheat a few more inches out of it but there isn't much space left for drybags and passengers so I'm sticking to the flat section.
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Old 01-25-2011   #10
 
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You might also consider a double rail system using zorba the geeks fittings (4) for the outside corners and connect the inside rails with something like a 48" or 54" STD Nrs parts. Then if you got a smaller boat Like a cat or a puma you could easily construct a nice overnight frame with the majority of the parts common
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