Question about building a rowing frame - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 03-17-2012   #1
 
Chicago, Illinois
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 7
Question about building a rowing frame

Hello,

New on the forum here. I have a boat that isn't really a whitewater-type boat, but I think I need to make a rowing frame for it and I've seen from some searching that you folks do a lot of this type of custom work. The boat I have is one of these:

14' inflatable Kayak & inflatable Boat crossover - KaBoat SK430.

I think this is what a lot of folks would call a "sport boat". There are a few videos showing this boat being used in up to what looks like Class II whitewater, if you look here:

HannuYK's Channel - YouTube

Anyway, most of my paddling is/will be done on flat water and calmer rivers/streams. However I do anticipate some rougher stuff down the road, but probably no worse than Class II. My issue is this - I want to be able to row the boat comfortably without having to sit in the bottom, which is currently about the only way to row it effectively using the stock oar locks. I'd prefer to be able to row sitting on one of the aluminum seats that come with the boat ( you can see them in the pics on the main page from the first link ). One other thing I'd like to take into consideration is that I'm using this boat on flat water and mostly to allow me to stalk wildlife for photography purposes. For that reason I'd prefer to be able to row the boat facing the direction I'm going, whereas in most whitewater you're facing the direction you're going but are a lot of the time back rowing (is that what it's called?) to guide the boat or control how it moves downstream. I know it's certainly less efficient to push oars rather than pulling them, but can it be done and would you need to design a rowing frame any differently because of that? Finally, this would be a frame for only one person. If two people were in the boat I think it could be easily paddled like a canoe, with canoe-type paddles instead of using the oars, or one person could row while the other takes it easy. Anyway, how would you go about building a frame for a boat like this? How big would it be, and could it be designed to be broken down? Currently all the parts of the boat (minus the trolling motor and battery) will fit into a large carrying bag so if the frame could be reasonably compact that would be a good thing as I live in an apartment and space is at a premium. Anyway, I hope you folks can help me sort this out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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Old 03-18-2012   #2
 
Willi..., Willimina, OR
Paddling Since: 68
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 482
The link you provided is to Boats to go, aka Saturn. If in fact you have one of these craft, you should consider Hari Kari. Just get it over with now.
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Old 03-18-2012   #3
 
Gypsum, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2006
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Steel Frame

Galvanized steel fence line post 1 5/8" diam. has the same O.D. as alum. pipe. Alum end fittings can be found on line from hand rail and fence company's. Total weight is 15% more than an all alum. frame. I have a a frame built on a 13' Hyside that I take on class III with no failure or discoloration.
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Old 03-18-2012   #4
 
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Tigard, Oregon
Paddling Since: 1995
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 784
I'm sure you could make a skid frame out of wood and attach oarlocks to it. Might be your easiest/cheapest route for the amount of rowing you are planning on doing. You might even be able to build it into the existing seats.
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Old 03-18-2012   #5
 
Chicago, Illinois
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 7
Thanks for your completely worthless answer. I'm just going to assume from your sig line that you're one of those people I see on forums everywhere who have utter disdain for anything that doesn't meet their own ridiculously high standards. I'm not going to bother justifying my purchase to you. If you have nothing constructive to contribute kindly refrain from making any remarks whatsoever.
Thanks.


Quote:
Originally Posted by garystrome View Post
The link you provided is to Boats to go, aka Saturn. If in fact you have one of these craft, you should consider Hari Kari. Just get it over with now.
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Old 03-18-2012   #6
 
Chicago, Illinois
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 7
This is a good idea. I don't really need to pack this boat in anywhere so the slight amount of extra weight is not a big deal. However, could this still be bent using something like a conduit bender? I have access to a "maker space" and while I'm sure they probably have a conduit bender, I doubt they have a hydraulic bender. Then again, (another newb question), is the dipped down bend I see on a lot of frames just for something to brace your feet against? Would that be necessary for flat water to Class II? The comment below yours, from TriBri1 brings up an interesting point too. He mentions attaching to the existing seats. If you look at the pics of the boat, the seats are flat aluminum pieces that slide in underneath some pvc sleeves glued to the upper edge of the tubes.

http://www.boatstogo.com/images/Kaya...30_RED09_2.jpg

What do you think about running a single tube that attaches to each seat? If you look at the pic above you'll see each seat overhangs outside of that pvc "holder" by about 1 1/2" - 2" - which should be enough to attach a single tube on either side. The tubes could be held on by a couple bolts and wingnuts at each seat. The oarlocks would be the same basic ones that NRS sells like what is used on their Longhorn frame. Do you think that attachment to the seats and those pvc sleeve holders would be secure enough or would I need to add a couple a couple D-rings to secure to on either side? Anyways, thanks Swidell and TriBri1 for the ideas. The grey matter is working now!


Quote:
Originally Posted by swidell View Post
Galvanized steel fence line post 1 5/8" diam. has the same O.D. as alum. pipe. Alum end fittings can be found on line from hand rail and fence company's. Total weight is 15% more than an all alum. frame. I have a a frame built on a 13' Hyside that I take on class III with no failure or discoloration.
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Old 03-18-2012   #7
 
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Boise, Idaho
Paddling Since: 1979
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 185
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiltedcelt View Post
Thanks for your completely worthless answer. I'm just going to assume from your sig line that you're one of those people I see on forums everywhere who have utter disdain for anything that doesn't meet their own ridiculously high standards. I'm not going to bother justifying my purchase to you. If you have nothing constructive to contribute kindly refrain from making any remarks whatsoever.
Thanks.
Welcome to Mountain Buzz.
You'll discover that while you can glean lots of free information and expert opinions from the membership, you may also be exposed to our occasional fun-loving side, complete with a taste of rudeness, bad grammar, and total disregard for others' feelings. That's how we roll.
Put on your thick skin and big-boy pants!
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Old 03-18-2012   #8
 
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Bozeman, Montana
Paddling Since: 1999
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Kilts are gay, buy a implosion skirt way cooler...
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Old 03-18-2012   #9
 
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Sandy, Utah
Paddling Since: 1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TriBri1 View Post
I'm sure you could make a skid frame out of wood and attach oarlocks to it. Might be your easiest/cheapest route for the amount of rowing you are planning on doing. You might even be able to build it into the existing seats.
Take a look at the NRS skidguard raft frame. I bet you could fashion something like that pretty easy. Like TriBri1 said, maybe you could use the seats you already have as part of the set-up.
KJ
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Old 03-18-2012   #10
 
Idaho, Wyoming
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 149
simple boat frame

Quote:
Originally Posted by cataraftgirl View Post
Take a look at the NRS skidguard raft frame. I bet you could fashion something like that pretty easy. Like TriBri1 said, maybe you could use the seats you already have as part of the set-up.
KJ
Aire's Traveler frame, a narrow version of NRS's skidgaurd frame.

River rafting and kayak accessories oars paddles frames pumps | AIRE
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