Open Bay or "zero bay" Design? - Mountain Buzz
 



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Old 04-08-2012   #1
 
Boulder, Colorado
Paddling Since: 2003
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Open Bay or "zero bay" Design?

Has anyone ever considered an Open Bay Design? I see plenty of 4 bay frames and probably for good reason, but was curious if it'd been considered.

After working off of driftboats for quite awhile, I started pondering the concept of a walk-around raft frame. Below is what i came up with. the outline of the raft is missing obviously, but it'd be similar to any other fishing setup except that it's completely free for the oarsman to walk around and assist.

In this setup too, I think you could strap down rods to the sidewalls inside small PVC tubes and then lash coolers or dryboxes to these sidewalls too, or behind the rower and behind the front seat. The leaning bars would be constructed from galvanized pipe and creating a fiberglass mockup off a Hyde thigh-bar. I think I could support the back seat with a anchor frame design that ties into the rear platform and then guides the anchor line underneath the decks to the rower for a stomp setup. Foot holds for the rower would be molded and re-positional, attaching to the floor like a Clackacraft drift boat.

The measurements seem to be similar to a 4-bay frame I was dreaming up; ~92ft of pipe. The decks and rails are 3/16" aluminum in my initial drawing, but the rails could be converted to HDPE or similar to reduce some weight. The fittings certainly will add to the cost, but can all be found at grainger, raftframe.com or mcmaster.com

the mockup is pretty crude, but it gets the idea across without getting too silly.

Open to opinions. If everyone's pretty convinced it's a bad idea, I'll probably proceed with a traditional 4-bay design. I was concerned it might not be strong when it was in my mind, but now I think it'd be pretty bomber for most fishing rivers. My biggest concern would be weight.

thanks in advance.
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Old 04-08-2012   #2
 
Idaho, Wyoming
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottcsu View Post
Has anyone ever considered an Open Bay Design? I see plenty of 4 bay frames and probably for good reason, but was curious if it'd been considered.

After working off of driftboats for quite awhile, I started pondering the concept of a walk-around raft frame. Below is what i came up with. the outline of the raft is missing obviously, but it'd be similar to any other fishing setup except that it's completely free for the oarsman to walk around and assist.

In this setup too, I think you could strap down rods to the sidewalls inside small PVC tubes and then lash coolers or dryboxes to these sidewalls too, or behind the rower and behind the front seat. The leaning bars would be constructed from galvanized pipe and creating a fiberglass mockup off a Hyde thigh-bar. I think I could support the back seat with a anchor frame design that ties into the rear platform and then guides the anchor line underneath the decks to the rower for a stomp setup. Foot holds for the rower would be molded and re-positional, attaching to the floor like a Clackacraft drift boat.

The measurements seem to be similar to a 4-bay frame I was dreaming up; ~92ft of pipe. The decks and rails are 3/16" aluminum in my initial drawing, but the rails could be converted to HDPE or similar to reduce some weight. The fittings certainly will add to the cost, but can all be found at grainger, raftframe.com or mcmaster.com

the mockup is pretty crude, but it gets the idea across without getting too silly.

Open to opinions. If everyone's pretty convinced it's a bad idea, I'll probably proceed with a traditional 4-bay design. I was concerned it might not be strong when it was in my mind, but now I think it'd be pretty bomber for most fishing rivers. My biggest concern would be weight.

thanks in advance.

That looks like a lot of floor for a boat that already has a floor. You may be better off putting inflatable tubes around a drift boat. Kidding, I think.
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Old 04-08-2012   #3
 
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Flagstaff, Arizona
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I'm going to go with your biggest concern, on this one. Weight.
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Old 04-08-2012   #4
 
Seattle, Washington
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Ooooo...

Cool design, them pics excite me! (is that so wrong?)

Could you save a little weight/$ by replacing the corner fittings with bends? Also, have you thought of using hdpe for the floor as well? I use 1/4 hdpe as the floor in my cat and that stuff is tough. I have two floor sections that are 2'x3' supported at the edges. That stuff is tough, light, and cheap!
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Old 04-08-2012   #5
 
Boulder, Colorado
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GC, I agree; I need to do the math for all the aluminum decking.

I e thing I was hoping to accommodate was the new style of wading boots. Since felt is on the way out, everyone starting to run the new river-soles with carbide studs inserted. Most drift boat owners won't let you in with studs installed in your boots, and I didnt want to risk putting a hole in the floor either. Plus, the floor is critical for stomping beer cans and scouting lines.

HDPE may be a good alternative. Is there a good source?
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Old 04-08-2012   #6
 
Seattle, Washington
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PolyMax Board - FarmTek

Try these guys.
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Old 04-09-2012   #7
 
East of the Pine beatle, Colorado
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Have you seen the Riverboat Works cat frames for fishing? Similar concept-
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Old 04-09-2012   #8
 
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Flagstaff, Arizona
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ScottCSU,
FYI, 3003 tread brite diamond plate .125" (1/8") is about 1.9 lbs. per square ft.
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Old 04-10-2012   #9
 
Boulder, Colorado
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GC, thanks. I've been using 5052 no-tread for my math thus far. Can someone give me an est. on typical weight of a 4-bay with no loads and oars?

before adding chairs and leaning bars, with fore and aft I'm getting pretty similar numbers.

Open bay decks ~ 40x80 floor, (2) 12x80 rails, (2) 30x40 fore/aft
4 bay decks are ~ 40x28 floor, (2) 12x80 rails, (2) 30x40 fore/aft
each uses ~92LinFt of 1.5" Sch40 IPS @ .9401lb/ft

Assuming open bay would use ~ 41 fittings and the 4 bay would use 38 fittings. not sure where the odd one showed up quite yet. Grainger has 0.55lb for Hollaender fitting weight, so I'll just assume they all weigh the same for grins.

open bay with .125" AL = 200.22lbs.
open bay with .250 HDPE = 173.71
4 bay with .125" AL = 198.58
4 bay with .125" HDPE = 172.06

so is 175-200lbs unloaded typical for a frame? I suppose I need to calculate the center section only for comparison.

also, .125" Al enough to support? I figured it'd flex and slightly extrude under weight.

I appreciate the support and discussion.
-scott.
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Old 04-10-2012   #10
 
Walterville, Oregon
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1/8" aluminum floor

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottcsu View Post
.125" Al enough to support? I figured it'd flex and slightly extrude under weight.
I have a 2-bay cat frame with a .125 diamond plate floor. The floor measures 144" x 42". The edges of the floor are supported by a frame of 1.5" x 1" angle. There are two .125" x 1.5" straps on 4' centers skip welded to the underside of the floor. Yes the floor has sagged maybe 1/4" over the years, but I just drilled some drain holes.
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